Web Cams.

Keith, are you talking about the extension pictured in the red square?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1267495643.jpg

That looks like it.

Its not really needed unless Steve is planning on using the air pump drive. This is discussed earlier in the thread. The camshaft will still need to be modified, tapped, to support mounting of the extension to the cam.
The extension is mentioned in Bruce Anderson's 911 Performance Handbook, Third Edition. Its a Porsche Racing Part Number: 911.105.171.02

I thought he wanted it for a turbo savaging pump.

I would need to add it to run the Clewett combined scavenge pump and cam sensor or to retrofit an air pump drive to make my own cam sensor. I would like to convert to a mechanical scavenge pump at some point to get rid of the Tilton. I already have a stock 930 pump set aside but I currently have the Clewett cam sensor installed on my driver side cam am awaiting MS3 for sequential injection.

LOL, still available and only $440 according to PP. I'll have to think of something else.

ROTFLMAO!! And I thought $200 was laughable!


Steve,
Why do you think you need the camshaft drive extension?

I did this years ago and it was about $150. Web Cam I think makes there own and included the extension in the price from what I recall.

The factory piece for an MFI conversion is to expensive to use and may not be the same as the 930 uses for its oil pump.

A lot of guys buy SC or C2 factory cams and have this extension added. Just check with any good Porsche cam grinder and they will probably be able to convert your cam for a reasonable cost.

Thanks for the info. It is a future project. I will stick with the Tilton for now and await MS3 for sequential injection and direct coil control. After MS3, when circumstances allow, I can consider my options for converting to mechanical scavenge but retaining cam sync.

OK,

I called Web Cams. Cost is $165 to convert an SC cam to drive a 930 oil pump. No factory spacer needs to be purchased.

Web Cam Inc. - Performance and Racing Camshafts

Great info, thank you.

Hello All, i came accross this and honestly wondered about your problems. First let me say that its possible you have probably not called the Haltech US office, if you have, you probably may have not talked to me. I have actually done a few Porsches in my time and i must say i love them to death, especially the old ones.

Having said this, i am here to answer your questions about triggers. The simple answer is that virtually any option is possible, its just a matter of prioritizing your needs. If you want to maintain originality, sticking with the distributor triggers is fine, if you want all out performance, a crank+cam setup is needed. We have single channel and dual channel hall sensors in stock that can let you do just that, we dont sell trigger wheels but we do sell the rare earth magnets that can let you build a custom flying magnet trigger, either inside the distributor (as ive seen some pics on this thread, or on the crank pulley.

Motronic, missing tooth, trigger wheels work very well, especially the 36-1 using a hall effect sensor, this only provides for half cycle, wasted spark/semi sequential, operation, but if you modify your 6 tooth/slot wheel inside the dissy leaving only just one tooth, this can double as your sync/cam sensor with no problems.

Haltechs can read Hall or Reluctor style setups and with the new Platinum ECUs you can properly configure your reluctor triggers to permit perfect triggering all the time using the trigger/home voltage threshold tables, filter levels and proper wiring and configuration of the trigger setup page.

I have never met an engine that could not be run given the appropriate trigger installation.

If you have any questions, please feel free to call me at the US office, just ask for Claudio.

Have a good one boys. I dont know if i will monitor this forum much, but my contact info is bellow.


HaltechClaudio
Haltech USA/Latin America
Tech & Sales
Tel. 760 598 1941
Haltech - Engine Management Systems

Just got off the phone with Claudio^^^^- It looks like I am going to keep the accel distributor as at can work with the computer. It turns out that I was not contacting Haltech direct, I was contacting dealers and they were the ones who didnt want to help me with my problem. Ten minutes on the phone with Claudio took care of all my concerns with the distributor and more. Thank you Claudio!!!

Bravo I am glad at least one of the companies involved jumped up to the plate.

thats a great resource....

Thanks for coming on here Claudio

You're all welcomed guys! I can honestly tell you that anything is possible when using these units, pretty much all possible angles can be covered.

Let me give you a quick run down, you can run the stock dissy from an old air cooledmotor, you can use the 60-2 trigger sometimes found on a few more modern years, you can build your own custom setup as ive described in the previous post, you can customize your existing hardware, or add some more.

These cars are loads of fun, power potential from what ive seen is incredible, all it takes is a little information, which we can provide!

Here are the sensors we have, this is the "GT101", its a single channel hall effect sensor that is similar to some bosch units as far as dimensions and installation style.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...llSensor80.jpg

Here are the rest, from left to right, "Red Hall Sensor", "S4 (dual channel)", "S3 (dual channel)". The S3 and S4 are the ones that use "rare earth magnets".

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...allsensors.jpg

And of course, Haltechs are perfectly capable of reading of most reluctor style sensors. All it takes is a little patience and the right settings.

Hope you got permission to sell your wares though, Wayne is a little particular about that.

Seems to be a problem as of late. Everyone with a buisness license are becomming dealers now but don't know jack **** about providing 'support' for the product. Anyway I contacted Claudio after stumbling on this thread so you're in good hands now.
Another option for you would be to just use the ACCel distributor for the cam/sync and use a Clewett crank trigger kit.
With the above setup you got many combinations available for both ignition and injection setup. You can run full sequential injection with a direct fire coil on plug or a wasted spark setup.

Clewett Engineering Catalog: Crank Trigger Adapter Kits
http://www.clewett.com/products/adapters/adapter.jpg
http://www.clewett.com/products/adapters/adaptkit.jpg

So for a Carrera conversion we can use the Motronics Flywheel sensor and can we put something in the stock EFI dist to indicate motor/cam phasing?

Basically yes.

Sorry that sounded alot more harsh than I meant it to but that so sounded like a sales pitch. Glad you are now getting tech support.

Yes you can! Crank + cam trigger combination, that is found within the choices, will let you run fully sequential injection and direct fire ignition with the Sport 2000 system.

60-2 +1, 36-1 + 1, are considered "motronic triggers", or missing tooth triggers, using a cam ref.

Any even number of teeth on the crank over 6, 12, 18, 24, would be a multitooth setup, and would require a single pulse on the cam.

Then we have the "standard triggers", even number of teeth (equal to the half the # of cylinders) on the crank + 1 on the cam. This would be Standard Trigger Full Cycle, providing info to run sequential/direct fire. Then you have the "half cycle" which would be something like an S3 or S4 with flying magnets on the crank, and the last is the "no home", this would be the OEM distributor with same number of teeth as you have cylinders.

Wasnt selling them, just showing them as examples of what can be used with confidence in these applications.

Hope it didnt sound like i was selling.

Sorry again you definately know your stuff about this hope you stick around to add insight to those who need help.

No problem! If anybody wants to start a Haltech tech/tips/troublshooting thread by all means go right ahead and PM me when you do.

good info

Hi,
Don't know if this will help or not. It's been a while since I did this and my memory ain't what it used to be!

On the back of my Scavenger pump on the Driver's side CAM there is the pulley for the air pump. I drilled and tapped that for a bolt. RED loktited a bolt in there at the proper point for timing. I drilled the housing around it for the cam sensor and set the gap and that was how I solved this conundrum.

I skimmed the thread, hope that was the question at hand?

I took a zillion pix but didn't document this for some strange reason...

wow looking at the photos you have done some major work on your motor, do u have a build thread (i wasn't able to find one) or do u plan to make an post build thread. be awesome to here what all you have done with your motor.

Hi, thanx!

No plans of a build thread. It seems like you're never done! Always something else to do for some reason.

You got that right I started a build thread and got slammed by someone that I didn't expect cause it was taking to long, it really does seem like there is something always next.

No doubt! I started years ago and haven't really worked on it for at least a year.

I still have ECU wires hanging loose through out the car for things like wheel sensors, different map, different boost settings, nitrous :D, hidden kill switch and various other things.

I've been just happy that almost everything works that I've moved on to other projects.

Subscribed!
Going M600 & 3.2 Manifold soon, have the M600, just need to make the harness, any thoughts?

Thanks,
Dave

If you're really good at wiring you could do it yourself. I'm above average at wiring, I built the harness myself, and I wish I paid Motec to build it.

I spent about $1200 in material to build the harness for my M600. I checked, double checked, and triple checked and I still made a couple of mistakes. I could have saved myself a lot of heart burn by shelling out the extra money for them to build it.

I put a bulk head connector at the fire wall to make pulling the engine easier. Even though I used very good DT gold plated connectors, I wonder if it doesn't add unnecessary risk for a bad connection.

Well I posted once and it disappeared but here it is again. I would like to see pics of this harness I am not being sarcastic at all but I can't imagine the components for an EFI harness costing that much, I used good stuff for my harness cleanup and upgrade to ATO fuses and dont think I spent more than 2-300 bucks 500 if you include I bought a new solder station for the work.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1283133717.jpg

Nice Job! But that's not the Harness he's talking about.

The EFI Harness does not exist on a 930 to cleanup. 930's don't have EFI.

Sorry, can't imagine too what on earth would make a harness cost 1200$. Did you use mil-spec connectors or something?

I make harnesses all the time (I install and tune EFI systems, specifically VEMS) and make harnesses out of silicone insulated wires, all new JPT connectors etc and it barely costs 200 in materials.


But regarding trigger setups. If you are going for the hassle and install crank trigger, why on earth would you want to install magnets? Use better sensor that don't need magnets, for example, Honeywell 1GT101 that is Hall sensor and requires nothing more than a bolt head or other metal tooth. Makes your life so much easier.

And I recommend multitooth trigger over "simple trigger" because multitooth is much more precise. It works without cam sync also, you just won't get sequential injection with out it. You can go semi-sequential, meaning firing injectors one-by-one, but they are not timed.

It is usually wiser to choose engine management based on how many sensors you won't have to swap on the engine and what it can do, instead of being forced to run certain sensors.

Best choice for 911 (at least with 9bolt cranks) is to use 964 flywheel that has 60-2 trigger arrangement, next to that is laser- or water-cut trigger wheels mounted to crank pulley (36-1, 60-2). It costs around 30$ to have it cut and find some VR sensor from ANY car that has it stock, you have a hard time spending over 100$ for crank trigger setup (that includes centering the trigger wheel to pulley by machinist).

I understand what harness he's talking about and I am just using a much bigger project as an example since I agree with raceboy I cant see how a smaller harness can cost that much even if you include trigger wheels and such.

Just the unterminated Tefzel wire harness was about $800. Then add a bunch of DTM connectors, one big DT bulkhead connector, a few other special connectors for injectors, lambda, boost control, etc, then throw in a bunch of shrink tubing and it was probably a bit more than $1200.


On the other hand, I did build this engine harness for a little over $100 which gets rid of all the stuff that the EFI handles:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1283165880.jpg

I would still like to see pics it looks like you do fantastic work. I understand wanting wiring that will last, but that wire you used will still be looking new long after the car has gone back to dust.