EFI guys please stand up...
 

So.... I am on the verge of starting to wire up my Haltech that I mentioned a while back and I am now thinking about triggers. Currently I have an Accel dual sync distributor (includes cam and crank...), but am having a hard time figuring out how to configure it within the Haltech and neither Haltech or Accel want to give me a solid answer about how to set it up. So now I need to set up a hall effect crank signal and an hall effect cam trigger. The crank trigger I pretty much got figured out- My real question is:
What are the distributorless guys running for a cam sync/signal? I have already seen the clewett offerings and neither are very viable for me (although they are cool...)

I was planning on using the clewitt Turbo scavange pump with the can trigger. I need to upgrade the pump anyway to accommodate two turbos.

I like that idea and I like the product, but the wallet wont stand for it...
And now that I think about it- anyone using a hall effect crank trigger please post a pic...

I think DonE posted a pic just a couple of weeks ago when a discussion was on Bell IC's.

Found the pic.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1267051072.jpg

Why aren't the Clewett solutions viable? The part I use works well and is inexpensive. However, I could not use the GM mag sensor and had the mount machined to accept a Honeywell hall sensor.

Here's a pic of the original part with the GM sensor installed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1267060106.jpg

Don- my problem is that I need the oil pump, so I can't locate it on the driver's side- and I cannot afford the billet aluminum pump with the intgrated trigger deal that clewett offers. Now I could do what you did with using the passenger side camshaft and the affordable clewett mount, but I would then need to machine the cam and that would equate to having to pull the cam out.

I don't have an air pump so I replaced the pulley with an aluminum spacer. I drilled and tapped the spacer for a magnet, then drilled a hole in the pulley housing for the sensor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1267062025.jpg

I think if neither vendor will help you configure your stuff then I would sell their stuff and get some stuff that has support. I have megasquirt and there was definately no shortage of knowledgable people willing to help with any issue I had. The only one that did have an issue was the guy that sold the unit to me but I can understand that cause I got rid of his firmware and software right off the bat and went a different direction now my unit is configured for turbo application and is controlling a EDIS ignition. Considering the amount of money you had to have spent on your equipment they both should be trying to help you. The first thing to go south in a failing company is customer service I imagine that this economy is hurting their bottom line. As for my signal it only required a crank signal on a 36-1 crank wheel Good luck :(

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1267062322.jpg

The dual-sync should be the cheapest way to go, since you have it already. It is a Hall Effect for both cam and crank. It will work with Haltech. The wiring diagram for the distributor is here:

http://www.accel-dfi.com/pdf/Dual_Sync_wiring.pdf

If you need more help, just post the Haltech model that you are using and I will take you the rest of the way.

Thank all you guys!
David- I like your idea, can you give me some insight as to what kind of magnets you used (rare earth I assume) but how did you thread the magnets in there? Or is it simply a nut threaded to the stud and no magnet?
Gsmith- is that a traditional clewett mount or did you make that yourself or did you have it custom made?

I have decided that If I am going to do this I will use twin MoTec 8v sensors like David seems to have in his pump housing- one for cam one for crank. I am thinking for the crank trigger mount I will use a clewett mount and maybe thread it for the motec style

Ingenious, Dave.

Speedy Squirl- thank you too for that diagram- The wiring is not the part that scares me, it is setting it up with the Haltec in the computer. I have a platinum sport 2000 and when searching through the trigger drop down menu, it doesnt give me any option that comes close to the trigger style of the dual sync. The dual sync has a 6 relucter crank trigger and the cam is the traditional 1 window home. I am at a loss as how to program it and thats what has me thinking about changing it out.

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delete

Kudos to speedy squirrel that is what the vendor should have done. That is actually from going super fast but I would go to clewitt which is were I should have gone the GSF stuff is not what I would call top notch but it was serviceable because the megatune software allows alot of adjustment. Do you pull your crank trigger off the flywheel or the pulley? My setup is not high tech but seems to get the job done the megasquirt with EDIS gives me 15 deg. retard under boost and is real easy to program.

This was my initial plan a few years ago before my project stalled. Since then I have gone twin turbo and need to upgrade the pump anyway so the Clewitt pump with trigger makes the most sense. It will be among my project leftover sell off when my car is up and running. I did make a custom aluminum crank pulley with a mount for the Motec mag sensor. It uses 12 rare earth magnets.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3458/...8650187a7e.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2595/...73ed8884d2.jpg

The sensor and screw in magnet are Motec sourced.

We use neodymium magnets in the trigger wheels we make. The magnets are secured in place with a dab of JB weld.. One of our engines regularly sees 9000 rpm and we have never lost a magnet.

Tried to secure the magnets by staking them in place, but they are very fragile and easily broken if you strike the punch to hard... so we use epoxy

I have a setup similar to 125shifter although I just used the airpump pulley to mount the magnet. , You have to be careful with the type of magnets, it needs to be alinco otherwise they lose magnetism when they get hot. I am surprised TimT has had success with neodymium, but I suppose it depends where it is. If you are near the oil pump it can get quite hot, especially if your exhaust headers run under it, as the stock header does.

These are the parts I used available from newark.com
sensor
honeywell 103SR13A-2
magnet 102 mg11