Anyone know if the Clewett scavenge pump/cam sensor will fit a true SC cam or does it require the drive extension of the 930 cam? I am also intrigued by the air pump pulley Hall sensor setup. Anyway to drive the pump pulley off of an SC cam?

How different is the sc cam from the 77 cam I have a tower setup and cam from a sportomatic motor that has the cam setup in the back for the sporto oil pump.

IIRC, Using the Clewett adapter, you do not have to machine the cam, nor take it out. When the cam in, you take out the freeze plug that is in the cam tower. Then drill and tap the end of the cam. Put in the bolt, and walla... Since the end is sealed up with the cam, there is no where for the shavings to go except on the ground....and NOT into the engine. I dont think you can still use the factory engine mounted oil cooler though. So you would have to run the oil filter mount there instead....

This is true- I can do it with the cam in the motor- but what about with the engine in the car? I would hate to have to pull it out. Maybe I could yank the axle and get to it easier... I do alread have the oil filter mount though, so most of the battle is won, just have to drill the cam and buy the clewett mount.

I did mine while the engine was in the car.... But I did not have the oil cooler mount on, nor did I have headers on.... I do not know if those items would make a difference or not...

I forgot to mention, I have a hot start problem related to this sensor. I know it's this sensor because Motec has an ocilloscope program built in to check sensors and my cam sensor drops almost to zero when hot. I was thinking it was the sensor or wiring harness, but maybe it's the magnet. :eek:

I would assume just about any aftermarket EFI system could control an EDIS6 and with only a crank sensor needed for operation why spend truck loads of money and pull your hair out? $100 gets you a complete EDIS6 system

Mine works great and I haven't needed any kind of ignition amplifier.

Yep - it's very easy with the motor in the car. When I replaced my cams last year, I didn't drop the motor for that either. If you want, Performance Developments makes a "super" magnet that screws into the end of the cam so just about any sensor will work. I kept my Honeywell and have the gap set to .040 with no trigger faults. Since my motor is in pieces, let me know if you would like any pics of the cam end or adapter.

Don, I would love to see some pics :)

Running sequential injection when you have oversized injectors.

+1

idle quality is enhanced using full sequential injection. Big injectors tent to create a rough idle condition so sequential becomes more important. Sequential is also more consistent among other things.

Checked out your pics on flickr nice job looking forward to a project like that myself in the future.

I emailed Richard about their combined cam driven scavenge pump and cam sensor and he says that it requires the 930 cam drive boss so it cannot be added to a true SC cam.

Did he say anything about the price or is it still 700+?

I didn't get that far. I have SC cams so there was no point. I would have to convert to 930 cam blank to use his. I already have a Tilton electric pump for scavenge and the Clewett cam sensor on the driver side cam so I will stick with that to avoid huge mods.

Here is a pic of the magnet that that I drilled and tapped while the cam was in the motor.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1267238871.jpg

This is what the adapter looks like with the sensor installed. The space around the sensor is recessed because that's how wide the GM sensor is compared to the Honeywell.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1267238889.jpg

This is just a shot from the side. With the gasket, I set the gap to .040.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1267238907.jpg

This is a shot of the exterior of the cam position sensor. I laid a piece of 5/16 aluminum over the original hole, welded over the hole, then drilled and tapped the hole for the Honeywell. The thread pitch on the sensor is 1 mm so each complete turn is 1 mm. Screw the sensor down until it touches the top of the magnet, then back it off 1/2 turn for .020 or one full turn for .040.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1267238941.jpg

Don- thank you for the pictures- they are very helpful. I am in a last ditch effort to try to figure out the accel distributor/ haltech programing and then I am going to go the way that you did for the cam sensor. Dont know for the crank pulley yet.

Haltech use to sell a switching trigger that when you set the magnets in the wheel all the magnets would be set in the wheel at north polarity but the magnet at TDC was set at south polarity and he switching sensor would tell the ECU when TDC was rached due to the one magnet being set to south pol. Not sure if this
method is still practiced with the Haltechs or not. Try contacting Mark from Hargett, he is good friends with a Haltech dealer that is one of really up with the latest and greatiest.

I assume the reasion of all this effort is to go fully sequential instead of batch at the injectors.

If the car has a distributor is seems you should be able to do it there instead of on the cam and it might be easier.

SC, you can have a drive mounted on your stock cam for about $200 if you really need it. I had this done many years ago for an MFI conversion. You do not need to start with a 930 blank.

That is good to know. Who did you have do this?