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engine bay clean up, help
Guy's
need some help, I would like to eliminate some items from the engine, but not sure which ones can be removed. Help would be greatly appreciated. Rod ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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What I like to do is take one bolt out at a time and then go for a spirited drive between each removal. Keep pulling out bolts until it doesn't start or something breaks on the spirited drive.
![]() Seriously though... how much money do you want to spend? That will make a big difference for how much you can get rid of in there.
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JB - BreitWerks www.breitwerks.com 321-806-8664 Engine Rebuild & Restorations |
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another big factor that plays into the engine bay in my experience is smog, what state, and what are your requirements? lots of stuff in the bay you will realize are put there to reduce emissions and lots of hoses stick fumes back into the engine instead of venting them to the air, stuff like that will have to be let alone if your smog rules require it
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'80 911 sc '96 Range Rover |
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if smog is not an issue, (im from a na 911, so im not sure if everything is the same), i would start with removing the charcoal canister and remove the rubber hose that goes into the airboot from the oil tank stem (where you fill oil into) and connect that to an oil catch can with a filter on top (which will vent pcv and fumes). You will have to empty this every once in a while buy it will save your engine from sludge.
leave the coldstart valve but you can try pulling the deceleration valve, and see how you like it (it may run a bit different), i have heard that the deceleration will me quicker and not as soft and slow. leave the vacuum advance for the dizzy. im probably forgetting some other things that can go. and I highly recommend the oil catch can, and if smog is an issue, than get a catch can with a vent hose on top instead of a filter, so it will vent the fumes into the engine intake but it wont leak the oil sludge into the engine the way that it does originally
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'80 911 sc '96 Range Rover |
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Thanks Scott
I will install the oil catch can, I have a Stef's crankcase breather in aluminum left over from another project that will most likely work. I would like to remove the deceleration valve, which one is it? Rod
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Its the gold disc looking thing behind the coil and to the left of the boost sensor (orange thing screwed to the BOV). You will most likely have to remove the BOV to be able to remove the hoses and replace them with caps.
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your car already has a really good light weight catch can from the factory that drains oil back into the oil tank.
it's the black plastic vertical cylinder shaped thing with a hose coming out the bottom under the right rear lid hinge in your picture. |
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Great thanks.
thanks very much gents. Rod
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You can get things relativley clean in there but it depends on what you delete.
Here is a photo of my engine without the factory BOV housing, AAV, Decel Valve, AC braket chopped, no boost sensor, no smog stuff, no airbox, and added a carbon catch tank. (using K&N filter on intake plenum) I would advise pulling the top of the motor off so you can clean everything and if you delete the factory BOV housing in favor of a BOV setup, you can plug the ports while you are at it instead of just capping them - looks much cleaner in my opinion. ![]() ![]()
Last edited by E-man930; 08-17-2011 at 09:19 PM.. |
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oh - and repaint your engine bay when you have everything out - does wonders for that fresh and clean look!
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Spectacular engine bay e-man. I see how you have your BOV set up differently instead of on the large elbow. As far as to the OP's question first thing I would get rid of is the air conditioning bracket since you already gutted the AC itself. Plus I notice all his smog equipment loooks deleted already, good start.
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'87, Modified WUR, Billet valve, 965 downpipe, Kokeln intercooler, GHL headers, Garrett T04B K27 hybrid, Tial w/.8 bar, WEGO IV, RarlyL8 dual out, LSD |
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oilonly,
Yeah I had to make a metal pipe mount to the intake tube as the BOV I'm using is twice the size of the C2 plastic unit. The diameter of the ports are 40mm... I thougt it was a good buy for the quality and performance available from Forge Motorsport. linky ==> Forge Motorsport | Alloy Fabrication |
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Very nice E-man. Another thing the OP could do is purchase a different turbo sump tank then no need for the vent hose going to the air cleaner. Brian sells one that you can vent underneath the car. I bought one and think it is a clean install.
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'87, Modified WUR, Billet valve, 965 downpipe, Kokeln intercooler, GHL headers, Garrett T04B K27 hybrid, Tial w/.8 bar, WEGO IV, RarlyL8 dual out, LSD |
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my apologies about the catch can, my car didnt have one out of the factory, so i was assuming that it was the same. but thats awesome that yours has already got one.
good luck with the clean bay!
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What E-man did is awesome... and expensive. E-man... care to share a ballpark of what the longneck conversion costs to get rid of the BOV? I can't find anything less than about 15 hondo to make it happen.
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I think i bought the intercooler from Blown Six for $1800 and change - then spent about another 200-300 to redo the mounts, bov exit from 1" to 2", the inlet, and weld up and remachine the ports. Then $165 for the BOV, I'm sure $150 in silicone hoses, $100 in clamps, bought a 930 SE intake tube off of ebay for $50 (luck and the guy didn't know it was not a standard intake tube), $50 to weld on an elbow for the BOV, and about $150 to powdercoat the related components. So $2765...
I felt better before I added this up.
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Hence my post in #2 above
But man, it looks freaking cool!!! Quote:
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Thanks for all the help gents, I had another question, noticed these two items have small elbows not connecting to anything else, I wanna pull all this stuff off, but not sure of its use.
thanks again Rod ![]()
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The elbows vented to air is fine. The relay with the blue vac hose connected to it looks to be the one for cold start vac adjust and the other one is for your smog system. Looking from your above pictures it seems to me your smog system has been deleted already. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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'87, Modified WUR, Billet valve, 965 downpipe, Kokeln intercooler, GHL headers, Garrett T04B K27 hybrid, Tial w/.8 bar, WEGO IV, RarlyL8 dual out, LSD |
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Thank you very much, you guys have been very helpful, as suggested i will most likely take the entire intake, bov, etc off and start fresh from there.
thanks again guys Rod
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