Turbo Conversion on 3.0 SC Winter Project

[jsveb]

It does sit high.
My main concern is the hot side protruding into the engine compartment like that, lots of unwanted heat.

Do you have any pictures where we can see the header and turbo from the back and below?

I like the Fuchs on the wall in the last picture

Btw , the craftsmanship looks really good.

I wonder if the weight of the engine sitting on those headers ( i dont know how sturdy those are) raises the turbo some. I would try putting it back in the car before modding too much.

[sjf911]

The SC rear tin is lower than the 930 which has an elevated relief for the turbo. You have to remove part of the tin as you have done and form some sheet metal to cover it.

[gavinc69]

SJF911 your right, just found the image below that shows the 930 rear tin and as you said theres a raised section around the turbo location.

Also found a pic that looks as if someone else cut into the standard tin to fit a turbo or it could be a turbo car.

I will continue and make a fill in panel for the tin ware that is like the 930 version.
I will also attach heat reflective material to the bottom of it to try and reflect as much heat away from the engine bay as possible.







As for the turbo support bracket I think I may try to make a new one and extend it over to the opposite side of the engine too so I can make a nice mounting location for my oil scavenger as it will be returning oil to the tank which is that side anyway.

[Ronnie's.930]

Are the long, flat steel intercooler supports temporary? I ask because thin rods with rod ends (Heim joints) would look much better and be more sturdy. The following is what I am talking about. This is gsmith660's car (he leveled the intercooler at some point) -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/4784249-post272.html

And here is CaptainCalf's versioin (though he has a different intercooler now) -

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/6459814-post538.html


I'm really enjoying following your project!

[gavinc69]

I started a separate thread for help and info on the Vacuum connections :

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/737755-vacuum-connections-sc-turbo-conversion.html

With help of some great Pelicans I've now connected all my vacuum ports up and fingers crossed they are all correct.

Thanks guys

[gavinc69]

I got some more free time to get work done yesterday.

All the boost and vacuum lines are now connected plus the oil supply for the turbo.

I still have one corner of the intercooler support to make and the rear tinware fill in over the turbo where I had to cut the original.
Otherwise I think its ready to go back in!


AAV is now routed to the top Decel Valve port on the rear of the throttle body. (Decel Valve is now removed).



Vacuum ports capped off and Decel Valve removed.
Thermo Valve is still in place and a 'T' off is installed that goes to the BOV.



Boost connection installed for the Wastegate. Installed as close to the turbo outlet as possible.
Will also install a 'T' here to run to the Boost gauge.

[gavinc69]

Turbo Kraft KKK oil feed kit installed below oil sender unit.





BOV installed after intercooler and before throttle body.
Small line from BOV goes to a port below throttle body butterfly. (see previous post).

[gavinc69]

The intercooler support bars will stay for the moment until I get it all up and running and working OK. At that point I will look at cleaning things up a bit and spend time making it a better install.

The engine should be back in soon and I can than get a support bracket for the turbo and oil scavenger made.

[911st]

Usually a recirculating BOV us used on this style of set up instead of one that vents to atmosphere.

You are bleeding air off after the metering assembly has measured air flow so you will run rich on over run.

It has been done before without major issue but is not the way it is usally done with suck through style CIS.

It should get you a nice flame out the tail pipe between all on shifts.

[patkeefe]

My old recirc valve, from an Audi, I believe. I have since gone to a Forge diverter; same thing.

[gavinc69]

Flames out the back end are fine by me

[911st]

Flames can be good. Can be hard on the turbo and the muffler. Can turn the turbo into a turbine which can have some anti lag benefit on a race car.

FWIW, Pat's is a good example. It keeps the air to fuel ratio better balanced between shifts by bleeding back to the turbo intake tube side. This is how the factory 930's work in principle.

The inexpensive bosh black plastic BOV like on the C2 turbos and that Pat has above works well. Forged aftermarket one's are easy to find and can flow more.

Better than both setups is one that is plumbed like Pat's but is a special style of BOV that stays open at idle and cruse, not just with throttle lift. It allows the turbo to spin a bit faster untill acceleration is called for as it bypasses extra air around the turbo.

It then closes with acceleration for faster boost response with acceleration. On my C2T this strategy made a noticeable lag difference.

[quattrorunner]

Originally Posted by 911st

Flames can be good. Can be hard on the turbo and the muffler. Can turn the turbo into a turbine which can have some anti lag benefit on a race car.

FWIW, Pat's is a good example. It keeps the air to fuel ratio better balanced between shifts by bleeding back to the turbo intake tube side. This is how the factory 930's work in principle.

The inexpensive bosh black plastic BOV like on the C2 turbos and that Pat has above works well. Forged aftermarket one's are easy to find and can flow more.

Better than both setups is one that is plumbed like Pat's but is a special style of BOV that stays open at idle and cruse, not just with throttle lift. It allows the turbo to spin a bit faster untill acceleration is called for as it bypasses extra air around the turbo.

It then closes with acceleration for faster boost response with acceleration. On my C2T this strategy made a noticeable lag difference.

Details and pictures?

[gavinc69]

Was hoping to get the engine back in this weekend but only ended up with 1 hour free to do a few small jobs.
Next weekend got all Saturday to get the engine back in and plumb in the boost gauge.


Finished the last intercooler bracket and painted them all satin black :







Due to the intercooler being installed in a slightly different location to where I thought it was going to go I will now also have to modify my air filter cover or make a new one more work.

[gavinc69]

Just hoping the intake piping isn't over hanging too much to fit back in!
If it is I'll have to adjust it some...



Think it should sit in the space thats above the shock towers..

[copbait73]

Regarding the rear overhang I have serious concerns also.

This is an area I was forced to make major adjustments and fabrication when installing my 73.5T 2.4L cis TURBO.

Look on my thread from start to finish to see the changes.

[patkeefe]

You may have a little trouble raising that up into the engine bay. It may be easier to take some of the piping off beforehand.

[gavinc69]

Managed to adjust the piping on the rear so they protrude less. Should be OK now.

Made a couple of small alloy plates that screw into the rear tinware to cover the turbo.
Painted with heat resistant paint and also put heat reflective cloth on the underside.
This is only a temporary fix until I find a 930 rear tin, they are like rocking horse s**t to find.
If anyone has a spare I'll be interested in buying it.

Now I've installed the plates I've just found to engine mount bar doesn't fit back because it hits the plates I've made. So that now has to be modified!!!!

Engine is defiantly going back in next Saturday.
Once in just have to connect up the turbo oil catch tank, scavenger pump and lines back to the tank.
Also need to finish modifying the 930 turbo mounting bracket to fit correctly.

[gavinc69]

It lives...........

Porsche 911SC with KKK 3LDZ Turbo and Zork Tube - YouTube

Big thank you to everyone that helped out with information and suggestions.

Need to install the oil scavenger pump properly, connect drive shafts and some other bits, also connect the boost gauge.

Seems to run lean, as I thought it would so need to try the 930 WUR too.

[jsveb]

Congrats.
You have done fantastic work, keep it coming.