Who says car guys can't be artisans???!!!

"Personally, I think the large braided lines are fine (good enough for NASCAR)"

Race cars use stainless or kevlar braided oil and fuel lines because they are custom made by the race teams.
Braided lines have a life expectancy and then they should be discarded and replaced after a certain amount of time. The rubber hose under the braiding eventually rots but you can't see it when it starts drying out and cracking or turning soft and mushy under the abrasion resistant braiding.
On aircraft a stainless steel tag with the manufacture date is clamped on to all braided lines and some race teams do that too because you'd never know when their useful time is up otherwise.

For a street car that has factory made gold cad plated steel oil lines available or already there that fit correctly and are mandrel bent where they turn or curve... are much better and more durable to road debris and age than stainless or aramid fiber braided lines.

Thanks for the info Brian, I will do some searches on headers for factory slants.

TT, be very careful with the oil lines from the thermostat to the oil cooler. Mine started leaking (the crimp that is the joint between the rubber and metal part) because I bent them a little so they would not rub on my 315's. I opted to buy the factory replacements so yep nothing like factory. OUCH!!$$$

Not to get off topic on Brians headers but Tt surgeon has his oil cooler in the passenger side rear fender where the slotting is on some of our cars. So probably a special case with his oil lines.

Looking forward to delivery ....... thanks Brian!
Enjoyed the comments & looking forward to getting the car back together.
Dave

This is the beauty going on Brian's artwork!
Davehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356958726.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356958772.jpg

Looks sweet.

More details on the build, please.

Exactly, this creates a special issue anybody w a factory slant has to be aware of when contemplating headers.
Brian has built a fantastic set of headers, kudos.

Finally managed to get some of the car back together over the weekend.
Picked up the engine and gearbox (different shops) did the assembly and into the car Saturday, Sunday. Now it's time to sort out the oil feed and drain as well air filter arrangement and pressure pipe to the new full bay intercooler from Bell.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1363002814.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1363002868.jpg

Another anglehttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1363023766.jpg

I'm curious to see how your muffler and pipe routing goes. I was looking at Brian's first photo with the wastegate mufflers pointed forward and thinking no way that works... then I see you rotated the WGs to face rearward, but might that occupy the typical muffler location? Hard to visualize from my chair.
And just and FYI on the heat, you may wish to have your 3-way collector welded up to eliminate boost leaks getting into the heat boxes. Forewarned is forearmed, and it'll never be easier than right now.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1356761205.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1363002868.jpg

I expect the muffler to be above the wastegate mufflers and plan to either point the wastegate mufflers down a bit to clear the bumper, or put down turned tips on them. More and more of the tracks I run at have noise restrictions so the dump has to be relatively quiet. Currently thinking the heater boxes will remain in the basement, already put the heater delete block off plates on the engine.

You got me thinking so checked and the muffler is comfortably above the wastegate mufflers.
A bit of reading suggests I need to come up with some sort of water system to cool the water cooled turbo .......

I thought most guys just plugged the water ports in this application.

Don't take my word for it, but it has been discussed previously.

Just run engine oil through them. It is much easier and the same principal. Oil is typically 10 degree hotter than water in a water cooled engine. In an air cooled engine it is no different? I still don't know why people are stumped on this one? You would just have to raise the oil pressure by shimming the pressure piston on the bottom of the case to compensate for the additional,oil flow to the turbo. If you are running a stock oil cooler, it would be advised to run a larger cooler. I run twins but use a 935 style oil cooler in the nose and have a thermostatic controlled fan for stop and go. Oil temp actually ran too cool and had to put a higher T-stat. 15K plus, 1,100+ HP ZERO problems.

Interesting, I have a big oil cooler in the nose and a fender cooler no oil temp issues at all. The car is a track rat so stop and go is not on the list of things to tolerated. I see the most critical issue as shut down. We run typical 30 minute sessions with a few 60 minute sessions and when you come in with only a half lap cool down everything from the driver to the brakes is hot. According to the Garrett website water cooling continues to thermally siphon after shut down to control heat soak into the bearing cartridge which led me to think about maintaining water flow for a few minutes after shut down in the paddock.

Need to read a little more ......... and thanks for the input, I think I would enjoy 1100HP!

awesome, they work great too..... Brian, any closer to having heat boxes for mine???
Cheers
Davinder.

Finaly together and running, not finished but much closer.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1365383192.jpg
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Nice car!
If it's still too loud a couple small turn down pipes can be added the the waste gate mufflers.