Jeff have a fun and safe project. Now that the motor is out it would be a good time to modify the fuel head and add bigger fuel lines. Will be a plus with the bigger intercooler and the adjustable wur.

Headers, bigger intercooler, bigger turbo and no cams? You may be disappointed.

Replace those compartment seals (they look perished) its very easy to do now and not much money in the grand scheme of things.

+1. It's the clutch to use. We can help you with that.

Without looking at specific build dates, I think that intercooler was not of the batch that had fitment issues. If you encounter any problems at all during installation, something is wrong, I'd like to hear about it and we'll correct it.

Engine compartment seals & sound pad.
A peripheral re-seal addresses most of the oil drip issues of a 930 engine, quite easy to do with the engine out.

I cannot find this in a search. What is it? Link?

TurboKraft Inc : Clutch Pressure Plate : Lightweight HP 594 [88 3082 999 594] - $1,195.00

It has a big brother, the 934 pressure plate, used in the 4-speeds before Porsche started flipping them upside down. It's what we used in Tom's UBER930 to withstand 600tq at the wheels.
Lightweight 935 Clutch

Tom wasn't a young man, nor the biggest guy, and he felt the clutch effort was surprisingly light for its strength.

So no worries about having a super stiff pedal that's unpleasant if/when stuck in traffic.

After slip issues on my prior Porsche build
I went with the Sachs Race Engineering PP PN# 99 3082 999 764
Sachs data sheet claims good for 890Nm and 659 lb/ft

I'm using a RS organic spring clutch, might not gt max bite with the RS disc but VERY streetable in fact smooth on the street, like stock

and for my application , no hint of clutch slippage

in fact everything else breaks loose instead

1991 C2 turbo

Will this work for a G50/01? Assume no.

So my fuel injectors are not spraying a very good pattern. I have soaked them in Techron for a few days, blew them out from the injector side using JFairmans method and a few of them are not good. I will soak them some more, but if I have to replace them, should I get the stock 017 or the Euro 009. I really don't want to go with a euro fuel head, cams, porting intakes, etc. for budget reasons. I believe I will be happy with the HP produced by my proposed upgrades. However, if I have to replace them anyway, does it do any good to go with the euro 009s if I don't do anything else to the fueling, or am I just wasting money, since they are more than the 017s?

thanks

The rumor is that the CIS injectors for the Mercedes 560SEL are a good alternative...and only cost $60/ea.

Is it the same as the 009 or the 017? I can buy the 017 for $58 online. The 009's are $102, so if I need them, I would only get the 009's if there was a benefit to doing just that.

thanks!

The -017 may flow enough for your application but I always go for the -009 as you want to change those once and done. New injectors are an overlooked cure of many CIS ills. Your engine will fire quicker, idle smoother and throttle response is quicker.

how many miles, Jeff?

>sticks fingers in ears la la la la la la<

60k miles Paul. I'm not surprised they aren't good. 26 years and 60k miles and those tiny little screens have to be clogged. I wish they were rebuildable.

The triangle of death!!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1421390484.jpg


Got everything off. Now to clean the motor and adjust the valves.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1421390511.jpg

fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck... eggzachary me miles here too... sigh.

Denial... ain't just a river! ;)

What is interesting is that the internals of the intake manifold, the fuel head, the lines and connectors are all SPOTLESS. The insides look as clean as the day it came off the showroom floor, so I would like to think that the car didn't sit for years and good gas was always used. Even so, the injectors are not flowing well.

Re: injectors...I replaced mine while chasing a light throttle misfire (which turned out to be an ignition timing problem). I did the seafoam soak and backflush and felt that the spray pattern could be better, so figured WTH. $600+ dollars later, I can't say I noticed a damn bit of difference. Not sure it was worth it other than piece of mind. I've kept the old injectors because I suspect they are ok. IMO unless you have the proper equipment, I don't think you can correctly assess the health of your spray pattern. Just one guy's experience doing the DIY test in the garage with an air compressor.

There's a pretty simple test that's outlined in the factory manual. Also some good vids on youtube. IIRC you pull all six injectors, hook the fuel lines back up, put each injector in it's own glass jar, crank the engine for ? seconds and measure the amount of fuel.
I guess this wont give an accurate assessment of spray pattern but it will show any week or defective injectors.

So do they state how much fuel should be in each glass after X amount of cranks or time? If they are totally different volumes in each glass, there is obviously a problem, but if they are all roughly equally clogged, would you be able to tell with this test?

I don't want to spend $600 if I don't have to...