![]() |
|
|
|
|
|
|
I posted between your pics.
I'm using the 3.2 idle valve. I see you're using PWM on the idle valve. That might be your problem! With the 3.2, you can use "FIdle", which "closes" the valve (not fully) as the engine warms. There isn't fluctuation during steady head temps. Once "closed" (if you will), it doesn't "open" rapidly to prevent the engine from stalling at idle. Not sure how PWM idle valves work? You can see in your datalogs. Does the idle valve open and close rapidly during these oscillations???? |
Quote:
So for the idle valve I should have it set to on/off? I don't have Fidel as an option. The valve I am using is a Bosch 3 wire unit. I think it came off a BMW. I will give this a try. Thanks J |
Quote:
Toothed wheel was only option that would allow Dual Wheel with missing tooth. I will try AFRs mid 13s up to 2500 rpm. Thanks again. J |
Quote:
|
Quote:
But, you should see this in the datalogs. |
Quote:
|
IMO, the boost areas are a little high. Everywhere looks pretty decent.
|
Should I reduce by 10%?
|
Looking good John.
|
Thanks Mark, let me know if you are interested in my SDS EFI at all? I will cut you a great deal.
|
Quote:
If I don't like the webers I'll definitely give you a call, but I can't swing it right now. SmileWavy |
3-wire idle valve should be a PWM controlled valve, not on/off.
|
Quote:
In that RPM band, pulling a couple of degrees will give it some safety margin. "GJF" is a tuner and knows these twin-plugs well. Maybe PM him with ignition table? |
Still having issues with car stalling if I hit the gas to quickly. Wondered if it was the crank sensor.
I have tried to save a Composite Log. It would show for first 5 secs. Then disappear. I'm thinking I need to change laptops. |
| All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:36 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website