I'll send you something when I get home. Very baseline though

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Thanks Derek, much appreciated.

Well didn't get as far as I would have like today. Although I am glad I am past getting the pulleys installed. I did test fit coil on plugs, and wiring. I used RSR clips to
Secure the COPs. Tonight I might try running the main harnesses.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1497808711.jpg

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Hello Jpilcher,

Denso 673-1309 (on the LEXUS IS350) looks like your Denso 900080-19016 a lot.
OKADA plasma direct PD6003706R "Normally" Better driving ignition "OKADA PROJECTS Inc" by following the reference LEXUS IS350. I also look for the best reels pencil which we can adapt on our 930. But on the other hand they are very expensive...
I am your project, good luck for the continuation! ;-)

Pat

Well finally got the wiring harnesses finished up yesterday. Got my laptop hooked up to MS3 Pro. Created a new project, and loaded a tune I had created. I used Derek's as a guide[Thanks Derek]. Ran through the Testmode tests for Injectors, Coils, Fuel Pump and IAV. Testmode is very cool in that it helps you isolate problems. Discovered injector on Cylinder No 3 was not working. Quick fix. Tried to start no joy. Discovered fuses for coils too small. I had 3 amp for each bank. Changed to 10 amp. Tried again, and she fired up, although a little rough. I've been getting a Cam Fault. I believe I have to add a 1k resistor. I made some tweaks to ASE, and WUR. Car started right up and idle fairly smooth a little high. I also have to put the intercooler back on. I still have to adjust Fixed timing. I will try and post a video later.

Any recommendations for smooth idle? How many are running 2 map sensors?

Regards

John

Congratulations are in order. Been enjoying your thread!

Hi All

I had the car out today for some light cruise tuning. The car idles very smooth.
Much better than the SDS EFI system. AFRs are bang on. I was having 2 issues.
Car would stall on occasion on tip in. I believe it was being caused by the accel enrichment. I have since turned it off. Other issue I was having was hot start.
Car would stall, and I would have to crank and crank the engine with part throttle to get it started.

Can someone please explain how to setup Priming Pulse, Cranking Pulse, ASE, and ASE Taper?

I read that the MAT Air Density Table is used to address hot starts.

Thanks

John

Hot restarts was the most vexing problem I had. I tried all of the tuning tricks but ultimately placed a second temperature sensor identical to the MAT outside the engine compartment and used a spare output to switch a relay between the MAT and the external sensor. First 5 minutes after hot restart, the external sensor was used then it switched to MAT. Problem cured.

Was the switch manually operated?

Hot restarts - set your MAT air density to be richer as air temp increases up to about 105-110% (additional 5-10% fuel injected. This is also in case of compressor heat runaway!). When you restart, and the IAT is heat soaked, AFR's will be ok once you find the right % increase. Adjust and tune accordingly until good AFR's.

Priming pulse - bleeds air from injector rails and primes the cylinders with fuel when cold when you 1st Turn key to "ON"

Cranking pulse - injects periodically (pulses) during crank and continues to until it starts IIRC.

☆ when an engine is cold, it likes to be rich. Something like AFR's in the 12's or richer. When the engine just fires off, engines generally like AFR's in the 10's, especially when really cold. That's where ASE and the ASE taper down helps a cold engine stay running during those 1st few CRUCIAL seconds once lit off.

ASE - additional fuel after engine fires keeping it running. This is during first so many seconds when cold when the engine needs to be extra rich so the ignition can ignite
the fuel. Based on coolant temp (head temp) and time

ASE Taper - ramping down to normal warmup enrichment based on time and coolant temp (head temp)

So, rich cylinders are easier to ignite than lean. Read up on the original Honda CVCC motor for a great explanation

Thanks Tippy

I edited the post since I rushed it the 1st time.

Feel I explained it better this time... :)

Much appreciated.

And I did it again. Always can write it better it seems.... 😂

I used a spare output to switch the relay after 5 minutes so the default was the external temperature sensor. It worked really well. It was a double pole relay switching the sensor leads to the MAT input.

Thanks Steve