Let us know how this goes. I would definitely try this out if I didnt already have a turbokraft cht kit ready to install.

Will do. I have a good electronics store near me. Hope to pick up a thermistor tomorrow night.
I may also hit the local U Pull yard, and pickup a used GM Air Intake Sensor. I believe Tippy did this.

Their disclaimer is worrisome:
"This is not meant to act as or replace a proper cylinder head temp sensor"
:eek:
Why sell it then? :confused:

I'm not exactly sure where I'm going to put it yet. At the rate my project is progressing I'll let you know how it works out in about 3 years. :rolleyes:

Think of it as a warm up enrichment sensor rather than a CHT sensor. It is accurate to about 260° which should be enough to get through the warmup cycle. A true CHT sensor like those used on piston aircraft would have an operating range closer to -40° F to 500° F.

John,

I used a GE glass encapsulated NTC thermistor, P/N AL03006-1847-76-K. It rated at 3000 ohms @25C or 77*F. Digikey and Mouser sell an Ampherol version P/N AL03006-1847-76-G1.

Picked up a 10k Ntc thermistor yesterday. Thermistor cost $2.20.
Soldered a positive and a negative wire to the thermistor. Insulated each wire with shrink wrap up to glass resistor. Fed resistor through eyelet of connector. Squished connector down and then insulated entire assembly with some more heat shrink. I haven’t done the calibration yet. That is tomorrow’s job.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509216768.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509216768.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1509216768.jpg

I often make "CLT" and "IAT" sensors this way. works well.

Easy to calibrate too.

Where is best place to install the CLT? I know cylinder head would be ideal, but I don't really want to
remove intake and shroud. Was thinking intake manifold stud. They should transfer enough heat through the bolt for a quick warm up. Let me know your thoughts.

John

I tapped the front of the cam tower

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John,

I think there would be too air blowing around the intake manifold stud, so that the temperature would very too much as car and engine speed changes. You could try what I did and slip the wire terminal between the fan shroud and the cam tower for cylinder #3 forward most shroud bolt. Use a larger washer on top of the shroud to compress the wire terminal tightly against the cam tower. I see running temperatures between 140* to 179* in logs once warmed up depending on outside temperatures and engine loading. I have not run the car in cold weather around freezing, so the running temperature may go below 140*. I cut WUE to 100% by 120*.

Thanks Dennis

Holy wire gauge Batman! 22 or 24 AWG will suffice.

Well I installed the CLT sensor on the intake stud. It took 5 minutes to get to 102 F. Obviously not the best place to install. The intake manifold wasn't even warm to the touch.
I plan on moving the sensor as per Dennis's recommendations. I'll let you know how I make out.

Try the intake valve cover stud next to the engine tin on Cylinder 3. Very little airflow in the corner.

Another option is to drill and tap the outer section of the cam oil line banjo bolt, install on the bolt. This comes to oil temp very quickly.

I do not like the shroud bolts. There is too much airflow that can leak out and falsely cool the sensor.

Moved sensor to Intake Valve Cover on Cylinder #3. Warms up much quicker there.
When I started the car the Mat and Clt were within 1 degree F.

John,

Let us know how it responds when driving (datalog) the car. I may move mine if the temperatures are more stable with increasing engine speeds and different outside temperatures.

thermoster
 

how about something like this...


2x NTC 10K Thermistor Temperature Sensor Thread Probe Cable for TEMP Controller | eBay

If the max temp on that sensor is 118C, I don't think that would be high enough for a head temp sensor.

118C = 250 F my car never goes above 200 F...

But you CERTAINLY want to know if it does.

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