Junk Yard Spoils.
 

Hi All

Went to local U Pull. Picked up a Honda and a Toyota COP. Toyota COP on left Honda COP is on the right. Checked the length to the sparkplug contact spring. The Toyota coil was 100mm, and the Honda Coil was 105mm.
Does anyone know what the optimum length should be from the rocker cover to spark plug tip?

I test fitted each COP. They do not have that same positive click that the Clewett wires have. I plan on using the RSR retaining clips. I just want to make sure that the COP spring is contacting the spark plug.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1482453830.JPG

The Toyota Plug is a Denso 90080-19016 pulled from a Camry V6. It's my understanding there are two different types of COPs available Denso 90919-02234(Japan) and the Denso 90080-19016(North America).

Regards

John

What is general consensus on using a bulkhead connector? One blog I read said we should try to limit number of connections. Opinions Please.

Thanks in advance.

John

What are the advantages of having a bulkhead connection? I have dropped my engine lots of times, and it was not difficult unhooking the different electrical connections. Philip

Good point Phillip. Bulkhead connector is out.

I'm using the Desso 034s with Rhr clips. Works perfect. You will not get the "click" when pushing these on but you do get a snug fit on the porcelain part of the plug.

Thanks Xbmwguy, planning on going with the Denso 034s.

I bought an actual military 40-pin cannon plug. Then I realized it only saves you what? 5 minutes??

You're making a lot more connection points that may interfere with voltage/resistance differences and potential for connection problems.

Decided to scrap the idea.

bump
 

any progress?

Hey Phillip

Not much progress due to holidays. I did rewire the fuse panel over the holidays.
I installed one of Fred Cook's ATO fuse panels, 2 years ago. I wasn't happy with length of some of the wires, and placement of the relays. I couldn't get the fuse cover to fit previously, now fits like a glove. I also wanted to create a record of the wiring for the MS3 Pro installation. I will post the diagrams this weekend.

Next step is removal of SDS system. Hoping to post it up for sale next week.
Not really sure what to ask. Any thoughts?

Regards

John

Sds sfi
 

Hey John, I would start with approx. 70% of the original purchase price for re sale. Also I would try E Bay and other venues, as this is a popular system in other forums, both car and for planes. These are a good setup for the DIY crowd, with excellent installation instructions. Philip

The fact he has a nicely packaged kit for a 930, plus can help the new owner here, I'd keep it to Pelican only unless it never sells.

I was planning on selling it on Pelican first, and if I get no takers, I will try Ebay.
I was thinking of asking $1500.00 This would include coils and 55lbs. High Z Injectors.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1483722858.jpg

Well now anyone who wants to buy it is going to ask for that too.

Back to negotiating school for you!

:D

Hi Guys

Starting to think about wiring for MS3 Pro. I went through my existing wiring and feel it should work fairly well with the MS3 Pro. I have created some wiring diagrams using some generic cad software. These are based on using the existing fuse panel, and adding some generic 40 amp relays. I am breaking these down in terms of ECU, Fuel Pump, and Wideband. I plan on doing some additional wiring diagrams for the fuel injectors and coil on plugs. Please have a look and let me know if you see any problems.
My hope is to help any future Pelicanites that might attempt a similar install. I have these available in pdf or jpeg upon request.

Regards

John

I don't know if it will be a problem for you, but I had issues running a microsquirt off the switched buss as it seems to loose power momentarily as the key goes from crank to run. This made hot starts very difficult, and may also have scrambled the firmware requiring a reflash. I ended up powering off the delayed action relay.

Just a heads up. Remember you want all your grounds on the same lug. The ms3-pro the sensor returns, your afr sensor etc..

You want to try and eliminate and voltage differences due to different resistance by using different ground locations.

I installed a dual circuit main relay to an integrated fuse panel/relay distribution block.

The main relay supplies seperate fused constant and ignition on circuits (there is a key on circuit that was used for the old aar heater element)

The relay/fuse block provides power and or protection for the ecu, afr, fuel pump, idle valve, cam sensor, boost solenoid, igniton power for upper and lower banks, etc......

Here is a picture. You can see the edis control units also...

Please mind the ty-wraps I use a lot of sacrificial tywraps when dressing the harness.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1483847471.jpg

I have no idea why the picture insists on showing up here upside down...

Thanks for input No Carrier. I plan on running all grounds back to battery. The ground coming of the AEM harness is for the gauge. I will also be doing something similar in engine bay utilizing a fuse panel and relays to control cop, injectors, and fast idle valve. I will post a wiring diagram today.