mca, remarkably my layshaft gear looked almost new, but I'm planning on replacing the chain gears because the gear teeth looked worn. I'm waiting to hear back from the machine shop, hopefully by then I can get a good idea of the parts I need to replace... What about you?

Let me know what it will cost in labor and parts to replace those gears. One of mine looks brand new but the other one has some wear.

I am nearing my budget for this rebuild but I don't want to skimp on items ... especially those that are inside of the case. The opinion on replacing those gears seams to be 50/50.

Parts Update
 

Hello all, here are some updated pic's of my parts back from getting powder coated and blasted.. :D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1211241294.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1211241327.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1211241347.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1211241362.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1211241384.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1211241451.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1211241474.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1211241493.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1211241511.jpg

Very nice! If I were you, I would sand the top of the Porsche letters on your valve covers to make them stick out more.

Aurel

Thanks, that's a good idea..

SSI & Oil Lines
 

Do the TWO new oil lines required for the SSI conversion/installation replace the big metal oil line that is attached to the engine which connects to the hard oil line on the car/thermostat? I want to replace them both, but I'm not sure if I need to after buying new SSI heat exchanger's and the required lines for them, are these lines the same? :confused:

Here are the part numbers for the new oil lines

911-107-739-10-M20
911-107-728-00-M20

I just did the SSI / Weber conversion on my 81 sc. You only need to replace the one line. Block to thermostat. Actually, it is 2 lines, one steel and one rubber. It reverts back to the line used on the two seven. Pelican has two listings for the line. One has the front trombone type oil coller in the front fender well, the other doesnt. It should be simple to select the right lines for your needs.

Cheers


If your going Carbs, I strongly suggest an MSD igniton system.

ok, I purchased those lines already so I guess I should be good to go.. Thanks!

Engine back..Time to Rebuild!!
 

The fun begins! I got my engine back from Ollie's, so now it's time to rebuild. Ollie's did an Excellent job! they explained in detail what had to be done and answered all of my questions in great detail. All my parts look fantastic! I recommend them 100%.

Step 1. Crank assembly with stock Rod's using RaceWare Fasteners.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1215193300.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1215193432.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1215193446.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1215193463.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1215193477.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1215193492.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1215193566.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1215193631.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1215193648.jpg

Using a ARP Rod Bolt Stretch Gage, I was able to determine stretch and clamp load. I installed the fasteners lightly oiled with Loctite 243 for added insurance. RaceWare indicates by using the stretch method while installing their fasteners adequate stretch ranges from (0110 to 0115). I found being in the middle, (0112 to 0113) worked the best fro me. All the Rods turn freely, smooth and without any sticky spots or hang ups.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1215193943.jpg

I'll be starting on the case soon, I feel it's still not clean enough!

Update...
 

Hi everyone! Finally I can update my thread a little. I received my replacement rod and started the rebuild again. The pictures I previously posted of my crankshaft and installed rods had to to be disassembled due to a miss printed label on the raceware packaging. The rod fasteners were actually for a 3.2 liter engine and not a 3.0... I tried to obtain the new bolts as quickly as i could, no luck back ordered everywhere. I then decided to use ARP instead. I reassembled the rods on the crank, everything was going smoothly until my last rod. The big ends on ARP rod bolts spun out in the rod cap causing damage to the cap and fastener. At first i was told it could have been a manufactures defect with the rod bolts, but they check out to be in specification. The rod was the culprit! The person who I sent the rod out to stated to me that in the 20 + years working on Porsche engines has never come across this situation. I guess everything happens for a reason, who knows what could of happen to my engine if this bad rod wasn't discovered. :eek:

Bad Rod...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222239526.jpg


Here are a few pictures of my progress...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222239385.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222239429.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222239452.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222239497.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222239620.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222239643.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222239678.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222239690.jpg

Some more pictures
 

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222239837.jpg

New thermostat with Elephant Racing lines

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222239859.jpg

New updated oil cooler

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222239913.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222239959.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222239982.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222240006.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222240031.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222240167.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222240191.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1222240230.jpg

At this point I'm beginning to pre-assemble the engine to check the valve to piston clearances.

Sabeo,
Where did you get those cool temporary cylinder retaining nuts?

Thanks,
Mark

Sabeo,

Nice work! Looks great. You are making nice progress.

I also have the finned oil lines and the cooler in the fender. Did you install a fan behind it? I am guessing you didn't b/c I still see the horn.

Keep up the good work.

Cheers,
Craig

Mark I got them from our host. They are not expensive and convenient. but of coarse you can use a socket and a nut to do the same job.

Craig, no fan. This was actually an unintentional swap. While removing the oil lines from the thermostat, the thermostat broke in half! There was no possible way for me to try and get the other side of the lines off. I tried soaking it with PB Blaster for a week. The propane torch was useless. These lines would not budge, after nearly 30 years they were welded in their place. Oh well, but I'm glad I did the upgrade, new engine, better cooling system! :D

I can assure you that those oil lines won't dissapoint you!:)
I did the same thing, and they work a lot better than the original ones...

Otto that's good to hear, I'm excited to have them! :D

Don't want to rain on the oil line parade ... but after just 6 months mine developed a leak / weep at the silver solder joint. I called Elephant and they said I could send it back and have them solder it again - no thanks.

Also, it looks like the purge valve may be leaking. I can not say for certain until I inestigate it more closely this weekend, but the area around the valve is wet.

Elephant suggested that I used too much force when installing the lines. I will admit, they were a tight fit but I didn't have to hang on them with all of my weight or anything. The finned lines are larger than OEM and there isn't much wiggle room with the OEM lines either.

Anyhow, a little bothered by it ... but I suppose it isn't a huge deal.

Craig, that's disappointing. I hope I don't encounter a oil leak problem with these lines. I also had a little trouble installing them. They fit way to snug, and was difficult attaching them to the front cooler. Oh well, I guess I'll just have to wait and see. :eek:

It is really more of a weep than a full out leak. I don't see how those lines could be installed without some sort of brute force.

You got any more updates or what? Want more pics!!!!