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Sabeo's 80SC Engine Rebuild
Hi everyone! I just wanted to share a few pictures of my rebuild. At the moment I have the engine tear down complete, with most of the parts fully cleaned so they can get shipped out to the machine shop's. So far it hasn't been to difficult, removing the head studs went fairly well. Actually, I found cleaning off the caked on oil and grime was the most challenging. I used a mix of few can's of Gunk engine cleaner, Diesel fuel, nylon brushes and a power washer. I have two studs that I didn't want to mess with because they are really close to the case, so I figured I let the pro's get them out. Internally, I think everything looked pretty good. The main bearing journals show wear as well as the sprockets on the intermediate shaft. The distributer gear on the crank shaft shows a scratch or two. One of the timing chain ramps in side the case was slightly broken, I found the little bits of plastic once I opened the case. The timing chain sprockets are worn, Cam's and rocker arms look good with slight wear.
Purchase List, New parts: 98mm JE Pistons, (can I bore out my 3.0 Mahle's to 98mm? Some say yes, some say no) If not, 95mm or new cylinders perhaps. Valves, valve springs, valve guides, etc. Fly wheel Clutch pressure plate, Gear, clutch spring plate, cable, throw out bearing, etc. Catalytic converter, my old one had a huge rusty hole in it. All new sensors, oxygen, oil, etc. SSI heat exchangers Carrera chain tensioner kit Race ware head stud kit Race ware Rod bolt kit These are just a few new parts I got for my rebuild. I wasn't expecting to replace the clutch parts, Fly wheel and or Catalytic converter, so that hurt me as far as my budget. I'll update this thread with more pictures of the case and it's internals soon. A big thanks to the Pelican Community and the guy's from the Chicago Porsche 911 Forum for all of your help and support thus far!! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209141877.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209141903.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209141916.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209141934.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209141950.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209142009.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209142024.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209142039.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209142057.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209142074.jpg |
Nice. How many miles on the motor? Since the case is already split, do you plan on replacing the crank bearings? For the headstuds broken close to the case, the best $15 tool I found is this (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=369745&page=4):
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209143156.jpg Good luck! Aurel |
Aurel, The motor has roughly around 130k on the clock. When I bought the car the speedometer worked for about a hundred miles then died. I drove the car all of last summer and fall. I sent the speedo to North Hollywood Speedometer to get it fixed. They did a fantastic job. Yep all bearings are going to be replaced except for the #8. Ike @ Ollie's said there was no need to buy a brand new one as long as you recondition it.
Basically, I'm going to replace all the parts described in Wayne's book that must be replaced with new. I started this rebuild with a 7k budget plain, it's looking more like 12k-13k... The nightmares and sleepless nights already have started! I actually read your thread and took you up on your recommendation, but I didn't try the bolt out kit. My Dad was afraid we might damage the case in the process. Head Stud Warrior's http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209158534.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209157454.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209157481.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209157499.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209157518.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209157536.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209157577.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209157623.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209158114.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209158144.jpg |
nice pics! keep em coming, im planning the exact same build soon
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Sabeo, can you discuss what Ollie recommended as far as reconditioning the #8 main bearing? Thanks!
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The #8 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209172991.jpg Nice & Clean Oil Cooler, for some reason, I'm very fond of this part, very German! I wounder if the person who put this thing together is still alive? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209173016.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209173138.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209173152.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209173264.jpg |
Awesome thread. I am at the exact spot that you are in - engine apart and preparing to ship parts out this week.
Are you having the oil pump tested too? Can you list the items that you are sending out to the machine shop? Thanks, Craig |
Mca, yep I'm going to have the oil pump tested. So far it look's like I'm sending out, the crank case, crank shaft w/#8 bearing, intermediate shaft, rod's, case thru bolt's w/cap nut's, oil pump, cam shaft housing, cam shafts, rocker arms, heads and my Mahle cylinders. Basically every major engine part that need's to be checked for correct specifications. I'm not sending my pistons because I want to use JE pistons. Sheet metal, timing chain housing's, fan, fan housing and intake pipes are being done at local shop here in Chicago.
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DAG! That is going to be some expensive shipping!!! The crank with the flywheel attached is 45 lbs.
I am sending the same stuff but I will likely have the case cleaned locally and the crank cleaned/polished locally. The guys at EBS said that it isn't a big deal to have the crank polished by a non-specialty shop. We shall see! Have you discovered any glaring problems now that you have inspected your parts? What caused you to decide to rebuild? The 1980 engine I bought had zero compression and 100% leakdown on #3 (according to previous owner) but I can't see anything that would have caused that. But, I am a noob so it is likely that I am overlooking something. |
Yeah I know the shipping is going to kill me, that's why I'm wishing I lived in Cali right now. I'm not sending the fly wheel, it looked to far gone. I decided to buy a new one, I figured to have it shipped and reconditioned, I can spend a little more a have a new one, I've already dug my grave, I might as well go all the way. :eek:
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Maybe we will be putting our engines back together at the same time too. We are both working on 80 3.0s! |
Like wise good luck! Feel free to post some of your pic's on this thread, the more pic's the better!!
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If you want to follow my journey check it out here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=399544 |
No Prob :D
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Sabeo, For the heavy stuff, go with FedEx ground, it's much cheaper then UPS, USPS or DHL. I shipped 4 fuchs with the tires on them (i think 70 pounds) from Chicago to Oregon for $68. I have a business account number that might get you a discount, let me know. The pics look great! Keep up the good work.
Johnny K. |
HeyJohnnyK, cool! I will let you know about the shipping. I was planning on using FedEx. I priced all the other mail carriers and they are expensive... I'll shoot you a text! SmileWavy
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Why did it have to come appart?
Any thought to having the small port heads ported? Could be important if going to a 3.2. Another though, sell yours and source a 3.2 crank and rods and have J&E make you some pistons to work with the 98's for a 3.4 CIS monster motor... |
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Hey Sabeo ... wanted to ask you about your intermediate shaft.
Are you replacing both chain gears and the large aluminum (layshaft) gear? |
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