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Cylinder Head Temp Sensor

I am in the process of updating my 930 engine to EFI and noticed that it doesn't have provision for a CHT sensor. I brought the engine in a disassembled state and believe it is a 1986 vintage.

Is there any way to install a CHT sensor or do I need to have the head machined to accept the OEM sensor?

Thanks in advance,
Richard.

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Old 01-19-2010, 07:27 PM
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The VDO head temp sender might work, it's thermocouple just replaces the washer under a spark plug.
Then you would have to find a home for the gauge.
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Old 01-20-2010, 04:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motley911 View Post
I am in the process of updating my 930 engine to EFI and noticed that it doesn't have provision for a CHT sensor. I brought the engine in a disassembled state and believe it is a 1986 vintage.

Is there any way to install a CHT sensor or do I need to have the head machined to accept the OEM sensor?

Thanks in advance,
Richard.
OEM sensor goes on cylinder #3
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/6578-head-temperature-sensor-replacement.html
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Old 01-22-2010, 06:04 PM
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What tuning parameter are you looking for this to control? Also, just curious, what EFI setup are you using? On our 356 EFI build we’re using an oil temp sensor, both for warmup and for a tiny bit for over temp protection. Because of the time it takes the mass of a cylinder head to heatsoak, and thus change temperature, I don’t think that you will gain much by pulling boost or dumping more fuel once the head is overheating. (FWIW, I don’t think using oil temp is a good medium to use either for overheat protection, but better than nothing, and I can trigger a dash light with it). I think you’d be fine if using this for the warmup cycle, but then why not just use oil temp for this?
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Old 01-28-2010, 01:03 PM
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Thanks for the response guys.
I am in the process of building a twin turbo 930. I was planning on using a Motec M600 however due to some issues with my engine builder, I may end up using a Haltech P2000 (long story). I also have a J&S knock control unit.

I will be running a crank and cam sensor for full sequential. I plan on using MAP and was considering a CHT sender for both warm-up and over temp. I plan on running moderate boost (~1.3bar). This is a high end build with new everything including Carrillo rods, 993TT manifold and billet injector risers.

The engine is at a long block stage - before I realized that it did not have provision for the CHT. I was wondering if it is worth removing a cylinder head and if it is possible to have it machined to accept an OEM CHT sender? Or if there is an easier way to monitor over temp protection?

Richard.
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Last edited by motley911; 01-29-2010 at 02:42 PM..
Old 01-28-2010, 07:36 PM
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I think an oil temp sensor would save you at ton of money and work. Would the CHT get you anything an oil temp sensor wouldn't?
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:37 AM
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On CIS engines there are three temp sensors that are all unused when removing CIS. One on each chain cover and another on the breather cover. I would think you could use one of those ports... right?
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brads911sc View Post
On CIS engines there are three temp sensors that are all unused when removing CIS. One on each chain cover and another on the breather cover. I would think you could use one of those ports... right?
I've tried all of those locations and found CHT to be the best for EFI purposes, especially warmup and hot start.
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Old 02-01-2010, 12:54 PM
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After thinking about it some more, being a dry-sump motor, your head (or block, or intake manifold) will heat soak faster than all that oil held in a remote tank. Given that, you may want to use a washer type thermocouple attached to the head or on the intake manifold. You can use the adjustable warm-up cycle slope to compensate as necessary. I think you could dial it in using an oil temp sensor, but it might be more difficult.
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:22 PM
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On my car (efi 930 with accel dfi and soon to be Platinum 2000) I use oil temp for the correction. I am running an oil filter cousel on my motor instead of the oil cooler, so my engine thermostate is no longer needed. Now that I have the block off plate there, I simply drilled, tapped, and ran the 3/8s GM CTS right there, and that paints a pretty accurate picture for the ecu.
I could see a potential conflict in extremely cold conditions, although I have never had a drivability issue as a result of it.

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Old 02-03-2010, 02:39 PM
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