Folks, I'm going to be selling my '77 after 38 years of ownership in the next month or so and am trying to figure out what the value is.
I have just spent the last 4 months going through the car and making sure that everything works and it is cleaned up. It hasn't been on the road for the past 10 years but has been kept up with.
Here is some info:
1977 Porsche 911S
We are the second owner or this car which we purchased in 1979 and drove it pretty much stock till around 1987. Original Color Gran Prix White, Cork interior, power window, power sunroof. We know the history of this car and it has never been in an accident as long as we have had it. We don’t believe that the original owner we bought it from had any either. Car is straight and rust free.
1988 3.2 engine was professionally installed by a local Porsche mechanic 1992. Engine was purchased used from a local Porsche salvage shop (PAP) 1992 with about 22k miles on it and put in my car which had ~130K miles. I have put 36K total miles on engine and 15K since the last rebuild in 1995 which was done because I had the engine previously super charged and burned a piston. Engine was twin plugged during this rebuild and then supercharger was later removed after ~5K miles. So Total on engine is ~ 58K miles and ~15K miles since last top end rebuild.
• Gran Prix White – This was a paint over original when we did the steel flairs in 1988. I’ve just had the paint gone over and it looks very nice for 30 year old Glasurite.
• 930 Steel Factory Flares welded on ~ 1988
• AIR 930S Front Valance Fiberglass ~1988
• Front Brake cooler holes in Valance are functional
• Passenger Electric Mirror Added , both work
• Air conditioned car but I have the Compressor and Rear Condenser out but have them, so the system can be made complete. Last time this air was run it was on the old R12 so it would have to be converted to the new Freon
• Electric Windows and electric sunroof, all work
• Black on hood and tail are Avery Supreme Satin Black film
• Just spent over $3500 on parts and 5 months getting the car in first class shape ready to sell.
Suspension
• Weltmeister Cambermeister strut brace
• 22mm Weltmeister through body front sway bar
• 22mm Weltmeister rear sway bar
• 19mm 930 Front Torsion Bars
• 26mm 930 Rear Torsion Bars
• Bilstien Sport Front Shocks
• Bilstien Sport Rear Shocks
• Lowered
• Turbo Tie Rod Ends
• Bump Steer Kit
• Front end rebuilt ~1993 when new engine went in
• New HD bushings installed when the new torsion bars and shocks were done
• OZ racing wheels just Plasti Koted black. They were originally gold but was looking for a more modern look. Plasti Kote can be peeled off if you want he original gold look.
• New Rakin Raptor Tires (made by Michelin). 225/50/16 front, 245/50/16 rear. I choose these because they have very good reviews, are all W rated unlike the RE11’s. I also went to a 50 on the rear sidewall to make street driving smoother with the tight suspension in the car
• Spare tire and toolkit (shows it’s age but tire looks good)
• Cleaned and coated front suspension parts with Por15
Brakes:
• Stainless Steel Brake Lines
• 930 Turbo Front & Rear Calipers (Rears and spacers redrilled by VCI)
http://www.vehiclecraft.com/Brakes/930_upgrade.htm
• Vehicle Craft Inc (VCI) Drilled rear and Slotted Front discs
• Brakes are non floating
• Larger 23mm Master Cylinder
• Front Brake Cooler backs hooked up to front valance with new silicon cooling hoses
• Brake Fluid ATE Super Blue (NOS I had)
• Extra set of used but lots left Pagid Orange pads for track DE use
Interior
• Cork color
• Just refinished dash, kneepads, and door armrests with Genuine German Cork Vinyl
• Like new RS America Black cloth 4 way power seats (Up/Dn front and rear) By far the best sport seats I’ve ever had
• Drivers seat rails are made from Carbon Fiber and were lowered ~1.5” as well as allow the seat to be mounted in 3 positions providing more leg room. Front mounting holes are standard position. With the RS America seats you have a LOT of upward travel and you can easily mount a racing seat of you want. I’m 6’4” and have a lot of leg and head room
• Just installed new Appbiz Lightweight Domestic Black Carpet
• Rear seats are out but I have them with mounting hardware
• Fixed drivers and pass door pockets while doing carpet
• Bolt in Roll Bar
• Momo Steering Wheel and adapter to push wheel back a bit
• Upper Steering shim just replaced to remove up down slop
• Black leather covered Momo shifter knob
• Driver is set up for 5 point harness, Pass for 4 point, belts not included
• Upgraded Tach face by North Hollywood (I think) so redline is up and you don’t have to rotate your tach. It reads a bit high on idle but has been checked on top end and is accurate. Read a bit high at idle but has been checked at top end for accuracy
• Sony Amp under Pass Seat
• Removable rear shelf with 2 JL Audio Subwoofers. Can easily be removed for those track days with two screws
• New driver and pass floor wood pieces just put in.
• Replaced Visors with the kind that don’t disintegrate and dyed the same color as headliner, Ivory
• Just re-dyed headliner stock color, Ivory
• Windshield replaced ~30K miles ago
• Dead Pedal or foot rest for left foot while driving (keep foot off clutch)
Motor and Trans
• 1988 3.2L Motor Purchased in 1992 from PAP w/ 22K miles on motor and ~130K miles on car
• Motor top end 3.2L rebuilt ~15K Miles ago and made twin plug. Reason for rebuild was previously installed supercharger burned one of the pistons.
• Compression warm (PSI) 170,170,164,170,170,165
• Leak Down cold <3%, <3%, 3%, 3%, <3%, 4% . No leaking can be heard from intake, oil tank or exhaust No broken head studs, checked during recent valve adjust.
• Trans 915 w/ ZF LSD gone through ~30K miles ago
• Replaced Engine Support Bar during engine swap
• SSI exhaust
• Stock 2 in 1 out muffler that was opened a bit and a larger SS tip welded on. Looks good and sounds good!! But not to loud and annoying
• Twin Plug, heads machining by Ollies
• Porsche twin plug distributor from 3.6 motor just rebuilt and new belt added
• High Voltage silicon ignition wires recommended by Crane, NGK B8ES plugs top and bottom
• New rubber distributor caps just replaced
• Lower plug hold downs
• Turbo Valve Covers
• Dual Crane HI-6 CD boxes and Dual Crane PS-92 Coils to drive twin plugs that works with DME
• New engine compartment heat/sound shield just installed
• Oil, Filter and Fuel Filter just changed. The fuel filter was cut open after running it for period to insure here wasn’t any contamination from the refinishing of the fuel tank.. Nothing found in filter.
• Fuel system was flushed out and fuel tank removed, cleaned and coated inside with Bill Hirsch Sealer inside making sure none got on the stir pot. Tank was coated with Por 15 on the bottom outside and texture put back on and repainted black on bottom, standard grey on top
• Earls Front Oil Cooler
• New battery (just replaced)
• Electrical Kill Switch
• Motor and trans mounts replaced with heavy duty versions
• Shifter connector replaced
• Performance Clutch
• Autothority Chip. SW wasn’t around when I did this but I’m sure his chip could extract some more HP if the engine is described to him
• Short Shift Kit
• New Oil Pressure sender (just replaced)
• K&N Air Filter (just cleaned)
• New Fan Belt (just replaced)
• Valves adjusted
• Just changed Trans fluid with Kendall 80-w-90 GL-5 with LSD additive
• No oil leaks anywhere on engine or trans
Body
• H4 lights and painted rings
• New bulbs all around and all lights operate
• Refinished front and rear running lights and new seals in rear
• New HD hood lifts (just installed) that are supposed to be guaranteed for life.
• Tail is a 3.8 RSR with Carbon Fiber wing from TRG. If you prefer the older 930 tail I’m sure this one could be sold to more than cover the costs
• AIR 930S Front Spoiler with Fog Light opening modded to brake coolers
• The huge rear heavy US rubber bumpers were removed to save weight in the rear. I still have them if you want to put them back on. Holes were filled with JB weld so you can see them from the back side if you want to redrill them and put the heavy bumpers back on
• New windshield rubber when I did the dash and new drivers window felt and outer felt both sides and rubber both sides.
• All fuses just changed to new ones
• Undercoating was put on by PO, I just refreshed it cleaning some of the old off and shooting new in the wheel wells.
• Wrap in satin black on hood and tail. This can be easily removed if you want all white. Reason this was done is to give a more hot rod look. Should be good for 10 years if car is kept inside.
Extras
• Brake pads used (lots of life) front and rear
• Compressor, mount and rear condenser if you want to make the AC work again. If it were me I’d take the rest of the AC components out and lighten the car as the AC on these early cars isn’t very good and I did everything to try and make it very cold. It has the additional front condenser and blower installed.
• Rear Seats and seat backs re-carpeted but out of car. I have all the bolts if you want to reinstall.
• Most receipts since we owned it
• Copies of 3.2 Engine and trans factory service manuals
• Fog Lights, rear turbo fog lite
• Rear heavy US bumpers
• Many other extras, essentially everything I saved since ownership.
What does the car need?
• If you want A/C you will need to re-install the compressor and rear condenser and convert to R134A.
• At some point you will need to replace the rear window seal It’s more of a cosmetic thing.
• The engine deck shocks don’t hold the rear deck lid up. I gave up on replacing these years ago as they don’t last very long.
• The dash brake/fasten seat belt light hasn’t worked in years and I couldn’t figure out how to fix it. I suspect bulbs need to be replaced
So what do you think?
Thanks,
Terry