[Don Z.]

OK, so the other car, when I want to take more than one other person with me and need a back seat, is a 65 Corvair Turbo Convertible. Unfortunately, the Carter Work of the Devil Side Draft Carburetor has been kicking my butt lately, and I'm wondering if someone here might be able to help or point me in the right direction.

It was working fine one day. As part of my "standard maintenance", I replaced Coil, Points, Plugs, Condenser, Cap and Rotor. The only real problem I was having at the time was that I was running hot on the freeway. (constant 3,000 RPM in 85+ degree temps and 20 to 30 miles later, the buzzer would be sounding. I don't know if the gauge is accurate, but the buzzer gets your attention). I've been told that "overlean" could cause heat, but I've since noticed that the PO used an Otto variable fan at 1.32 to 1. I've reduced it to 1.40 to 1 to see if that will make a difference. If it does, I'll find a stock (1.56 to 1) sized fan.

I opchecked my tune up, and it ran great. The next day, it would not start, and the carb would leak gas by the pint after grinding 5 to 10 seconds.

After many conversations with Ray Sedman of American Pi, I ordered a rebuild kit from the Source. Spent an entire Saturday on it, re-installed it on Sunday with a Source electronic choke.

During the rebuild, I found a leaking float. I spent several tries before I was able to get the float re-soldered, but I finally got it. Everything ran great for fifty miles, and then it stalled. No start, plus gas leaking from the carb. On a hunch, I pulled off the float bowl cover. Sure enough, the float was leaking again. Ordered an NOS float. Looked for a NOS carb, but came up empty. The float and gasket came from Glen Wolf. I also found a Weber manifold if I want to convert to a side draft Weber 2 bbl.

Waited a week for the new float. Adjusted the shut off to 3/4", and the drop to 2 3/8 in at the bottom of the float. Installed with new gasket.

It was a bit hard starting, but it started. I could not adjust the idle below 2,000 RPM, and more frequently than not, it was running at 2600 RPM. The choke was opening/closing correctly. Began looking for vacuum leaks.

The screws in the choke housing were stripped. I used JB Weld and then re-tapped them, as no one in town has an 8/32 helicoil kit. I checked the stacked gaskets on the throttle plate to ensure that they were aligned correctly and that there were no blocked passages. I adjusted the throttle plate to be sure that when closed, there was a .032 gap on the bottom of the throat. The spec is .033, but my feeler gauge set has only a .032 and a .034. It was difficult to measure, because the gauge is flat and the throat is circular, but I got as close as I could.

I used a new gasket between the carb and the turbo. I did not remove the float bowl cover. I got the carb body to throttle plate screws as tight as I could. The throttle plate was checked for warping, and was OK, the carb body was slightly warped. Stacked gaskets measure 7mm (.31 inches) before istallation, and 6mm (.26 inches) installed (Mr. Sedman's recomended numbers) I would guess the warpage on the body could be ground out, but that's a last resort if I still have a vacuum leak.

I re-installed the carb. The car will not start. I did not check for spark, but I did hook up a timing light, and the light is firing as it cranks. After cranking for about forty seconds (no more than ten seconds at a time), I get one or two drops from the carb. No where near like the flood I had before I replaced the float. I did hand jam the throttle open and closed, which eventually squirted a little extra fuel into the carb, but while the starter turns the car, it will not fire. One thing I did think of is that the last time I turned it off, there was a loud backfire, so while it's possible the muffler was damaged, I did fell air pushing out from the muffler as someone else was cranking. At this point, I am officially baffled and am hoping someone here has an idea.

I am now seriously looking for someone who knows side-draft carbs in the New Orleans area. I am going out of town on Friday for three weeks. If I can't fix it this week, I will have to ship the car to Maryland in November, and if I can't get it to start then, I will incurr additional shipping charges. I will NOT drive it from NOLA to MD in November because I don't trust it. As a "By the way", Ray at American Pi does not have a rebuilt in stock, and said that he has a month + wait on carb rebuilds.

Courses of action at this point include finding a YH guru in NOLA, selling the car (difficult when it's not running), finding a Weber and continuing to tinker with at least a carb that is well documented, and placing a thermite grenade on the engine cover and pulling the pin. COA #1 would be the most satisfying, but #4 is looking better and better...

Anyone have any other ideas?