[BURN-BROS]

Hi Bill. Yes, all parts that make it a viable engine.

Case savers or time certs? If time certs then they have a history of failure....may not be a plus on the list.

Who did the machine work and who built the engine?

How many miles or hours are on the engine since the work was completed?

Leakdown #. Where was the loss coming from? The numbers you have are not terribly helpful at the moment. Real #s on a warm engine would be better for you as a seller. If the leaks are simply built up carbon on the exhaust seats, tapping them with a soft mallet usually gives a better reading..

I have had clients buy "rebuilt" engines that I had to completely re-do because of claims made by the seller did not check out.

I am not implying that is what you are doing, I am merely giving an example of what I have seen come thru my shop.

When it comes to a good engine, verifiable documentation is paramount to added value.

If you want to get maximum value from your long block, then I would recommend a few requirements.

Engine be running and in a vehicle for buyer to inspect.
proper leak down and compression #
original documentation of the work done

If you can provide all of this then 20K to 25K would be reasonable for the long block....perhaps more for the guy that owns the car the engine belongs in.

If not then I couldn't consider it anything more than a core and about 12K. Perhaps 18K if you find the car that it belongs to.

A good deal of enthusiasts gravitate towards a good running engine as it can save them a great deal for money, and rightly so. But there is a bit of Vegas luck involved in that scenario.

I hope this helps!