HANDGUARDS for my R1100S

[r1100sp]

Despite the rapidly approaching Michigan winter, I still “got the fever” and can’t bring myself to put the bikes away. I’m quite comfortable without heated clothing and typically have no issue riding in high 30 degree temperatures. That is, except for my fingers. I’ve tried many different gloves plus combinations of liners and outer shells but still, after about 30 minutes, my digits are destined for disintegration. Heated liners are certainly an option and coupled with my heated grips would probably yield a noticeable improvement. However, a couple friends, thoroughly sold on the improvement handguards made to their machines, encouraged me to take a look at adding them to my S.

As most of you know, there are no guards designed and manufactured specifically for the R1100S. A buddy had no use for an unused pair of guards from an older 1100GS so I began work with these. The challenge?... construct brackets to mount them in a functional location while maintaining full steering travel and avoid contact with body panels.

I’ll spare you the infinite and tedious steps of positioning both guards with cardboard brackets in search of a suitable position. But, during this process I began to think, “If I want REALLY warm hands, why not ensure they are protected from the airflow as much as possible.” That explains the additional parts seen below. These two extra deflectors help to ensure the cold wind flows over the top and around the side of the open guard.



Each deflector began life as a cardboard template. The outline is transferred to a piece of flat, 1/8” thick ABS plastic and cut to shape. All four parts required shaping to fit the original guard, ensure adequate hand coverage and still look good once assembled. The upper deflector for the left side appears below. It required only a simple bend and minor forming at the outboard end.



The end deflectors are more complex and required forming over a sphere to produce a cup shape. I’ve heat-formed a myriad of parts over the years and typically use a small propane torch. A fan nozzle spreads heat over a larger area for complex forming or heating a larger area. Once soft, the part can be shaped by hand with protective gloves or smoothed over a rigid mandrill or object. A needle nozzle yields a flame for small, precise work; or if you need to soften a narrow strip for a simple bend.

In addition to the new ABS deflectors, each guard also requires three custom fabricated metal parts; (2) brackets and (1) plate - all made from aluminum. The black bracket seen below clamps around the top of the fork tube and is lined with a 1.0 mm thick strip of protective vinyl so as not to scratch the tube.



The longer aluminum bracket was made from 1/8” thick by 1” wide strip stock. Each hanguard bolts to this bracket. Because the size and shape of both brake and clutch master cylinders are different, specific non-symetrical brackets and plates were fabricated for each hand.



Here’s the inside of the left guard with both additional ABS deflectors bolted in place. The triangle shaped plate, (again, fabbed from 1/8” aluminum) attaches to the plastic guard through existing holes.



This exploded view illustrates all the parts I needed to fabricate or obtain for the LH guard. 5.0 x 0.75 mm dome head bolts were used for a clean, smooth appearance with appropriate washers and nylock nuts - all stainless steel. This same collection of parts was duplicated for the RH guard assembly.



The cardboard design/mock-up phase indicated I would need a thick spacer between the inside of the guard and the end of the clip-on. (3) Ľ” thick nylon washers fastened together with black electrical tape quickly create and conceal this simple spacer. The stock bar ends were not retained for this installation but will be re-installed in the Spring when the handguards are removed.



So, was it worth the effort? Absolutely… these things REALLY work! In upper 30 degree temps for nearly 2 hours, cruising at 50 to 80 mph, I have no issue with my fingers…especially coupled with the heated grips. Moreover, once installed, there’s about 5 mm clearance to each turn signal bezel and side fairing at full steering lock; left or right.







Soon, when winter arrives in full force, the bikes must enter hibernation. But until then, these modified handguards have opened my comfortable riding window just a bit further. I’m glad I took the time to fabricate all the parts and fit them to my “S”.

Ride safe.

Pete.

ps. Granted, these photos are not of exceptional quality but I hoped to include many more documenting the project. Sadly, I did not realize (10) photos is the maximum limit per post. I can include other appropriate photos in any reply's that may arise.

[shreddr]

nice fab work!

[markjenn]

I've never found handguards to make much difference in temps, but glad they work for you. VERY nice fab work.

- Mark

[Nitro]

You know they make heated gloves...they work much better than the heated grips...and no fabrication needed!

[wswartzwel]

Nice work. Do they hit the windshield when turning the bars to full lock?

[RBMann]

Good job, I thought about doing some but never got around to it.

[R111S]

Looks great! I remember the Hand Guards on my old R100GS/PD (Heated Grips Standard) worked well in cold temps too. I once did our Club Annual 01JAN Ride @14F...whewhoo!

Did you do the silver paint (Turn Signal Pods/Front Fender) too?...looks nice as well.

[Sideshow_S]

Those do look great! Nice work! I bought the GS handguards with the same intentions. In the end, I bought some ATV cheapie hippo-hand textile knockoffs that work amazingly well for temps but they hide the controls, so you're blind to them, which is weird at first. First time I used something similar was on a bike set up to ride on the ice. I was amazed I only needed lightweight gloves underneath them.

I believe you when you say they work. For most of the time, I get enough wind protection around the turn signal pods because I have my clipons below the triple clamp. They work better the faster you go.

[r1100sp]

Thanks to all. I appreciate it.

No sir... the brackets do not force the guards into any bodywork or the windshield. Time consuming to make those pesky little buggers...but worth it.

The second photo shows it better than the first but there's 5 to 10 mm of clearance to each front turnsignal pod at full lock in either direction.





And comfortably 10 mm clearance to each fairing.



The guard is well away from the windshield, as well.



Thanks R111S. Yes, I painted the front fender, front turnsignal pods, belly pan and rear turnsignal housings (from a Yamaha!) frost blue. I also designed and cut out (from adhesive backed vinyl) the checkerboard pattern for the fairings.







The "R1100" received some new colors, and a new "SP" label - all done with vinyl.





The bags and rails were painted by my dear friend and neighbor, fellow "S" riding buddy and forum member John Diakonis. Sadly, John lost his battle with cancer a few years ago. As I see the bike every time I'm in the garage, I remember him daily.

Thank you.

[ToyCollector]

Very nice, like what you did with the paint on this machine as well.

[SeabeckS]

Great design and fabrication!

I'm also envious that you seem to have a 900 Superlight in your man cave!

Cheers!

[r1100sp]

Thanks ToyCollector and SeabeckS. Yes, I was fortunate to be in the right place at the right time with the Superlight. Resultant from a divorce, I purchased that in '96 with less than 200 miles. Sometimes we get lucky, eh!

Cheers...

...and Merry Christmas.

[SeabeckS]

Originally Posted by r1100sp

Thanks ToyCollector and SeabeckS. Yes, I was fortunate to be in the right place at the right time with the Superlight. Resultant from a divorce, I purchased that in '96 with less than 200 miles. Sometimes we get lucky, eh!

Cheers...

...and Merry Christmas.

And Merry Christmas to you as well, may the New Year bring much joy to your life!

Bill

[r1100sp]

Hey there, Bill. PM sent.

[AZ Pete]

do you recall which model Yamaha the rear turn signals are from?

[r1100sp]

Sorry for the delayed response. There are a few models from Yamaha that use this signal and I don't recall which ones. But, the R1 and R6 models for the past few years definitely use them...mine came from a crashed R1.

BTW...

If you use or want to use running lights for your rear signals, get hold of a pair of front turn signal assemblies from an R1 or R6. The front and rears look the same but the fronts have running lights so the socket is designed to accommodate a dual filament, 1157 automotive style bulb. You can see the three leads from the housing; ground, positive for the low wattage running light and positive for the higher wattage signal.



I incorporated front and rear running lights on my bike with a separate switch controlling both.



Just an "FYI".

[r1100sp]

[BumbleBeemer36]

Really great fab and end product but had you tried Hippo Hands first as Sideshow mentioned? I have hand guards on my 650 (and heated grips) and the tips of my fingers still get cold from the air coming up from the bottom edge - even with heated gloves as well.

I've just decided it's only 30 minutes of unpleasantness in a minimum of 30 degrees.

If I was going to ride for longer in colder temps it looks like "the hands" will be the only improvement.

[r1100sp]

Thank you, BumbleB36.

No, I hadn't really considered wading into Hippo waters. As effective as they undoubtedly are, I suppose form overpowered function (hey...it's not how you feel, it's how you look! That's Billy Crystal's impression of Ricardo Montelban on Saturday Night Live back in the Jurrasic era, BTW.) and I chose to make the traditional guards. I don't ride much when the temps plummet below 30 and the guards are working out pretty well so far.

[hakuin]

Very nice mod, indeed! As a fellow Michigander, and one who enjoys riding until the snow/ice is actually in the travel-portion of the roadway, I would love to have guards like this.

Brian