Race Preping my BCR

[blackduc238]

Well I finally got brave/stupid enough to get into the garage and start my prep work.

Tail is off along with muffler
Body work is off
Lights off

Some observations:

Working with ski gloves on because its -6 = Not fun nor easy.

If not for this forum, I would have never ever found the screws behind the roundel (except when I ripped everything apart in a fit of rage).

I have a strong urge to punch German engineers in the throat. They hide screws/bolts everywhere! Those damn tail lights had screws hiding bolts and they managed to position the roundel screws in a position that a socket allen key was too small but every extension/allen key I had was too long. (Well played BMW...well played).

I have a full Laser exhaust on the way, PC 3 (Wish we could get a five for our bike or a Bazzaz). I've also ordered a full set of bodywork from Sebimoto. I've been told it will ship this week from Czechoslovakia.

I plan to keep the colors as close to stock as I can. I ordered a set of the BCR decals from Denmark. They should match stock pretty close.

Now that I finally have the body work off, my girl will begin her weight loss program. I'm trying to be careful though. My master plan is to race her this year and maybe next (depending on how the bike and my body hold up), then convert her back to street for our golden years. So I'm not just cutting wires out or stripping everything out. My best guess is that the bike will still weight more than my competition on their bike. Once I get on her we'll weight close to twice the competition! hahaha.

But it should be cool and fun.

I'm also looking forward to safety wiring everything. It looks like those round headed bolts, and counter sunk bolts should be a blast to drill. FUN TIMES! But I will wait until I can work without winter gloves for that fun.


I'll post and review as i go along.

[Mitch1100]

Quote..I have a strong urge to punch German engineers in the throat. They hide screws/bolts everywhere! Those damn tail lights had screws hiding bolts and they managed to position the roundel screws in a position that a socket allen key was too small but every extension/allen key I had was too long. (Well played BMW...well played).

When I had my R90s BMW introduced a hinged oil filter is for easier installation so the exhaust header pipe didn't have to be removed.:roll eyes:..access to air filter, battery, fuel filter on the BCR, carries on the tradition

[peterz]

Originally Posted by blackduc238

...they managed to position the roundel screws in a position that a socket allen key was too small but every extension/allen key I had was too long.

I assume you are referring to the bolts behind the roundels on the fuel tank side panels?

I have the exact same bike as you and this works for me with no hassle at all:

Just use a stubby screwdriver bit holder with the right bit (3mm hex I think).
Then all you do is turn the steering to the opposite side and the bolt is quite accessible.
You do need a light to shine on the bolt but it's not as bad as you make it sound

[John Lyon]

Originally Posted by blackduc238

I have a strong urge to punch German engineers in the throat. They hide screws/bolts everywhere! Those damn tail lights had screws hiding bolts and they managed to position the roundel screws in a position that a socket allen key was too small but every extension/allen key I had was too long. (Well played BMW...well played).

I'm sure there's a perfectly good reason for everything!

[bradzdotcom]

german engineering means you can't take it apart wrong...and you can only put it back together one way.
not your way. theirs.

[blackduc238]

Peter, Good idea with the stubby. I have a flexible socket extension that I ended up using. As I had mentioned, if it wasn't for the board, I would have ripped it apart in a fit of anger at some point.
Bradzdotcom...That statement is so wrong! I find so many different ways to put things back together. They all seem to be wrong. Its like refolding a map (argh..for those of us that used maps not just gps).

My Laser exhaust and Power Commander showed up in the mail yesterday...a full week ahead of expected delivery. I think thats a first for Canada Post! As a very nice added bonus the guy I bought them from included a SJBMW power filter! SCORE! Damn is that thing ever pretty!

Now with a bag of clips, bolts, springs, bits and no directions I'll have to put the exhaust together. Here's hoping to luck out with my good friend google!

[metropolis2k]

Nice project! This is going to be fun.

I've been prepping my Boxer Cup for track use as well but non-competitive and it still needs to stay street legal for 'road bike only' days which I prefer. This means I need to keep the headlight which is definitely an easy way of saving weight!

Performance wise mine already has the Laser exhaust (with y-piece) and Laser motronic chip which makes a nice difference, and full Ohlins. By the looks of it you're on stock shocks so I hope some aftermarket ones are on your shopping list!

For fairings I ended up buying a spare set of standard fairings for a pretty good price by being a vulture on eBay and doing some haggling at breaker's yards. Completely by chance I've ended up with a full set of yellow fairings which the front and rear in black. My plan is to repaint them all, possibly in a scheme similar to the HP2 (non-motorsport edition).

What are you doing for cylinder head protection? The carbon ones do nothing to protect the heads on the track in the event of a crash. I have some chunky Touratech ones I use on my GS which I can move across but they're pretty ugly.

Are you doing anything with wheels? I'm considering a second set but struggling to find a wider rear for a decent price. Lastly I'm also tempted by a second bellypan I can use for the track, just because they look so cool! Did you get that in your Sebimoto kit?

[blackduc238]

My plans sound like they're close to yours. Race but also being able to street if its not too much work.

I was going to go with a oem set of bodywork, but after being down a few times on my other bikes I've discovered the ease of fiberglass. Price wise the aftermarket was pretty close. So same price and easily fixable won out. Since I was ordering the tail and front anyway I just went with the whole kit.

My thinking was, the standard fairings will most likely be one and done if you go down, unless you're lucky and can plastiweld (sp?) them. Fiberglass is easy and quick to fix.

I'm on the fence with getting another set of wheels. I'm telling myself that I won't bother racing if its raining...but I said that last year and raced twice in the rain and once in sleet (not fun). The BCR is going to be more for fun racing (a bit of an oxymoron)..but that could change. Aftermarket carbon wheel upgrades are not on the list. If I had that much money to play with I'd be a happy camper.

Suspension is on the wish list, but I won't be getting that until I sell some of my other bikes. Wife has laid down the law. Elka was a partial sponsor last year so I'll be looking to them first.

I've ordered pretty much the entire kit from Sebimoto. Each piece is priced separate but I ordered everything. Sides, front, mirror covers, tail (which looks sweet) and belly pan (the stock carbon BCR pan is not usable to race).

As for protecting the heads...I'm a little on the fence. I have the carbon covers that I understand will do nothing but scratch and wear thru. I've seen the Touratech and some others but I'm thinking clearance will be a big issue. I'm going to run with the carbon and feelers to see where I'm at. Since I'm old, slow, and crappy I might have the clearance to put something bigger on.

Here's what I get to play with over the weekend.


Any chance anyone out there has install instructions for the Laser? I've reached out to Fosterrad as well..

[Chris Canning]

Performance wise you'll need a SJ filter/Lennies Induct and a Power Commander.

Wheels that'll be either PVM or Dymag particularly the front.

At the very least you'll need an aftermarket shock on the back the standard stuff is Boat anchor quality.

There's are plenty of ways of making an S lighter the problem comes if you don't want to pay.

If your really serious I'd look at Gus's bike on Boxertrix that will determine if your just tinkering or not as the case maybe

Oh and if your really lucky look for a set of aftermarket brakes.

[blackduc238]

Got the filter..sure is pretty, and PC. I was going to go with a gs tube or maybe make one if time permits.

I'm tinkering. Just racing regional. Wife has me on a very short leash

I was hearing the brakes were actually pretty good. Once I get the girl out on the track for a session I guess I'll have a better idea. If they're sucking then I'll just go the brembo route. easy enough upgrade. Did it with my ZX6R and its stops crazy.

[metropolis2k]

Originally Posted by blackduc238

I was going to go with a oem set of bodywork, but after being down a few times on my other bikes I've discovered the ease of fiberglass. Price wise the aftermarket was pretty close. So same price and easily fixable won out. Since I was ordering the tail and front anyway I just went with the whole kit.

My thinking was, the standard fairings will most likely be one and done if you go down, unless you're lucky and can plastiweld (sp?) them. Fiberglass is easy and quick to fix.

You're right, they are good prices and hopefully easier to fix!

As for protecting the heads...I'm a little on the fence. I have the carbon covers that I understand will do nothing but scratch and wear thru. I've seen the Touratech and some others but I'm thinking clearance will be a big issue. I'm going to run with the carbon and feelers to see where I'm at. Since I'm old, slow, and crappy I might have the clearance to put something bigger on.

I'd strongly urge you to not use the carbon ones, or if you do, don't use your original ones, get some cheap replicas! You can easily pick up some spare ones that look the part but don't cost anywhere near as much should you venture into the grass or gravel. I'm also slightly worried about clearance on the Touratech ones but will find out in a few months when I take it on the track next. I know BoxerCafe also do fibreglass ones but they'll wear through quicker than carbon.

Chris's description of the rear shock as a boat anchor is correct! Once you've tried the bike on Ohlins you'll never go back. My first S had just an Ohlins in the back and the old shock in the front which was OK but the front was way too soft so doing back and front was definitely a big step up.

The exhaust looks great! Different link pipe to mine. It should be straightforward to fit but the silencer has different mounts to mine. Mine have the same hanger parts from the OEM pipe that hang onto the two mounting points under the seat. Yours looks like it might bolt to the subframe instead. Here's what mine looks like:

[blackduc238]

Yeah I saw the cost of the stock carbon and said NO WAY to that. Picked up a set on ebay. I'll see how they hold up. I have to get some metal to make the feeler and rivet it on.

Saw the pic of your exhaust. Mine mounts the same just looks different. I think its called the Boxer Cup II

Would love to get the suspension. It will depend on the other bikes selling and or if I find a deal. Otherwise I'll have to wait a bit

[Chris Canning]

I had an Ohlins on the back for some years before I put an Ohlins on the front I hated it with an absolute passion I don't do squidgy and by the time I got it something like(like the stocker!!) apart from the fact it's longer than stocker I took it off and sold it and have never regretted it.

Re the Induct hit the search button it's big hence why it shifts so much air leave anyone of those 3 pieces out you've only got half a job.

What I have never been able to find is the hand bags at dawn between Lennie and the SJ lot over the air inlet I say that because 'Induct' is Lennies trade name

Look at this it's what they call a walker as opposed to the talker varity

www.boxertrix.com :: View topic - bike is now finished

Here's the tame option but cost just as much.

[BadToTheBown]

blackduc238 - like that Laser exhaust, it's better than my Remus. They're lighter too. I also agree with the recommendation to run it with it's chip to realize the full benefit.

Your brakes are fine, you can easily get air under the rear wheel coming out of straights with what you have. Stainless steel brake lines, HH pads or better with high temp brake fluid and you're in business. I do also like the Braking rotors but I've had friends who have no problem getting air under their rear wheel with stock rotors, which in your case should be 320mm, not the earlier 305mm. If you have ABS, you're not getting air under that rear wheel. But I do wish I had those 6-piston calipers on Gus' bike, nice.

On the cylinder heads, if you have the later bike (i.e. 2004?, 2005 for sure), you have the longer suspension, including forks (from the GS?). I'm guessing they are around 5mm longer which should do the trick in keeping your valve covers from scraping unless you go down. Aftermarket shocks are the ticket, stock sucks in comparison and the aftermarkets are re-buildable. I'll bet there are members on the board who know for sure. I have extra valve covers, has been cheaper to do this.

As for using the GS intake tubes, I'm pretty sure they will NOT fit with your SJBMW air filter (they need to reside in the same volume in the air box). They are also really for midrange (street over track). I have a BMC filter with mine for my tourer, not using them on my project bike, that bike will be running above midrange on the track.

Just my 2 cents, hope it helps.

[Chris Canning]

Well I've never understood the 'More torque threads' that you read about 1100s it's a big twin how much do you need for me it's been about a linear power curve from top to bottom with a few extra HP.

It's all about getting air in and out with a good mixture hence the big Induct with a SJ and PC it's not about HP per se it's about getting what you have as fast as possible.

As far as pipes are concerned why take off very heavy stock pipe and put a heavy aftermarket on?? get as much weight off as you can so that'll be a Ztechnic although were you would get one now??

As for Gus's brakes my AP's worked great but just like any non fully floating disc it used to eat them and they were custom made the PFM's are now on mine.



As for weight saving I'm amazed how little is said on here about Lithium batteries I've run one on another bike for over a year and at some time will put one on the S but as I said in another post 10 years ago my S was at the top of the food chain with Ti this and that were as now gets a little neglected but still gets the job done when asked.

[BadToTheBown]

I like the APs too. My project bike getting the stock R1200S calipers (cheap) with the 320mm rotors. Good enough.

Can't argue Chris' point on the Lithium batteries. I have one for each bike but if you do get them, get the charger with it and top it off with the charger first and then about once a month after that to keep all the cells up. I ran my first one without and now it won't top off with a charger. It has to do with how our bikes charge batteries, which was not designed for these batteries. So they'll work fine but...

As to Chris' point on "torque", without GS tubes I still beat everyone out of a corner, I just can't keep them at bay on the straights (HP's domain). I'd go for the HP for the track, torque on the street but Chris is right, you don't NEED it. I would like to trade some of my torque for some more HP though when on the track.

Good luck.

[blackduc238]

Phew!!
Installed the exhaust and pc3. Removed the canister. Fired up the bike. Few seconds in and oil pressure light comes on. Oh crap.
Shut down, check oil. Little low but not bad. Check fittings and look for leaks. Everything looks good. It was late so I go in and hunt the forum.
Lots of tossing and turning thinking about spun bearings and other bad things.
Went out to work on the bike today. Light still on. Checked the oil pressure sensor and sure enough there were a couple rubs with exposed wires. Re wrapped and fired her up Yippppy. Sweet sound of the laser and no oil light. Thank you pelican members for posting problems and solutions!!

[PFFOG]

Looking for a spare front wheel?? Have one and rotors for a quick change set up for the track.

[com5984]

great thread

[Paulaner]

As far as heads go, ive touched both sides down at Laguna. It's a weird feeling, could easily end up in tears if you run out of track and cant turn any more!

I'd recommend running a cheap used set if you are worried about track rash.
Don't reduce your cornering clearance!