99 R11S Can't Bleed Front Caliper
 

Having difficulty bleeding the front right caliper (haven't tried the left yet). I've moved the gas tank and bled at the ABS with no obvious issue, but I can't get any fluid out down at the bleeder on the front right caliper. This is with both a mityvac and pumping the brake lever. Anyone know what might be preventing brake fluid from getting to the caliper?

Brake hose may be collapsed if it still has original brake hoses.

Thanks, wswartzwel. The hoses are original, AFAIK. Might that also explain why I can't get fluid to flow out of the back brake line with the mityvac (i.e., I had to pump with the brake lever to get fluid out)?

Good thing it happened at home instead of locking up the caliper 500 miles away. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...eys/hiding.gif

When my K bike lines failed, the caliper would clamp, and then the release was slow. Like if you were rolling and nudged the front brake, the nose dropped, and tool a few feet before it came back up.

Were you having problems before? or just bleeding brakes to flush it?

The right caliper is the one without a bleeder screw, correct?

Agree!

Both of my calipers have bleeders. They've been there since I've owned the bike, but I"m the second owner.

The bike has been setting unused for along time (had kids), and I'm trying to bring it back to life, staring with changing all fluids. I don't remember having this much trouble with the bleeding the last time I did it, but it's been a while. Seems like, even then, the vac wasn't very effective and I had to pump the levers.

I just ordered some stainless braided replacement lines. I vaguely recall a recall on this bike for the brake lines years ago, and don't think I acted on that.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...leys/king2.gif

Think I'll probably do the same this winter just as a matter of preventive maintenance.

If it's like my bike; the brakes will be night and day different after line and pad replacement. Even when the bike was new I could pull the brake lever hard and touch the bar grips. In other words (even after bleeding) the brakes were soft and mushy.

Not any more.

What SS lines are you guys planning to use? I did Spiegler on my K bike and was impressed.

DSTJohn,

I'd bet you have OEM brake line crud clogging the caliper. That's what I had last winter, caused my front brake to lock down, acted as a check valve inside the caliper passages. I disassembled and thoroughly cleaned the calipers passages (both sides). That' the ONLY way you can clear the passages. Stupid simple, four bolts and one O-ring.

I replaced ALL the hydraulic lines with Spiegler. Much better than Galfer, just because of the tools they provide.

All the pics are here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vdJIe8VNu17u4Z9N2

This was the problem:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YK...5-h613-no?.jpg

I ordered a set of Spieglers. Clutch too.

Thanks for that tip, Lowndes. If the new lines don't clear the issue right up, I'll check that next.

You might want to blow out the calipers to see if there's debris in them before trying to bleed the system. It'll save a bunch of time & hassle if they are clogged.

Easy enough. Will do. Thanks!

dstjohn,

I seriously doubt the new lines will solve the problem. Also, you cannot clear the caliper passages with compressed air thru the bleed nipple hole to the brake line hole; they are connected directly together. All you'll clear is the 1/2" long hole between them. The passages and the cylinders are "dead ends".

While you have the system drained for the line replacement is the perfect time to clear the calipers. They are stupid-simple: 4 bolts and an O-ring. Then you have easy access to clean and check the passages and pistons.

See disassembled calipers here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/vdJIe8VNu17u4Z9N2

If they're that easy to get apart then I agree no good reason not to take a look. Looking at the little clip washers on the ends of those pins has me expecting another trip to the dealer for replacements if I yank them off.