Looking at a 98 Boxster - possibly buy

tcar · 02:13 PM

98 Base. Has 108k miles.

Brakes are weird:

Almost no pedal travel. When you apply the brakes it stops fine.
When you take your foot off the brake pedal, it keeps braking and then gradually releases the brake pressure.
Could this be a proportioning (?) valve problem, or master cylinder?
Brakes do not 'pull' at all.

Oil looks OK, no intermix evidence (mayonnaise crud) at least on the dipstick.

May have a slight engine stumble/miss.

Has exhaust leak (muffler?)

Needs tires.

Needs battery.

Any of this critical?

What is a good offering price ballpark?

tonythetarga · 12-27-2015, 04:10 PM

Get a ppi done. Brakes could be hoses or in need of a caliper rebuild. This sounds like one to walk from. Maintenance hasn't been kept up. This is a $5k car at best. Intermix is best seen in the coolant tank not dipstick. A ppi is the best chance you have of separating minor from major dollars.

tcar · 12-27-2015, 07:22 PM

Is there usually any value in running a carfax?

recycled sixtie · recycled sixtie's Garage

I would look at the carfax if you were serious about buying the car. As the above says this car sounds like it has problems. I think there are better ones out there. Try a few different Boxsters. If you come across a well maintained one it will indicate that it is superior to a lesser one. Of course a PPI for any used car I think is essential if you are serious about it.

chamilun · 12-28-2015, 04:43 PM

definitely drive at least 2 or 3. If the engine seems 'rough' and loud, run away.

99 is big intermix year. Not sure about 98s. That car is $6500 max.

All the air cooled porsches I've driven had different braking characteristics, which I've always found odd. I'd ask when the last time theyve changed brake fluid. Have them change it and see if behavior improves

tcar · 12-29-2015, 05:30 PM

Well he's asking less than 6k... but there are zero records.

Car was bought from an auction, I found out.

chamilun · 12-29-2015, 05:36 PM

some perspective of where prices are:
2003 Porsche Boxster Convertible

mikefocke · 12-29-2015, 06:10 PM

Of course all prices are local but I'd think in the Denver climate you would be lower. It is better to pay more for the right car with good maintenance history than one where you'll be putting the same money into it by the time all the repairs are done.

The 2003 example from Nashville has upgraded wheels and an aero kit plus a bigger engine, glass window roof, etc. To get the car you posted about originally to the level I'd demand before driving it could cost $3k. Brakes and tires and engine problems are kinda important.

By all means spend $200-300 on a PPI for the car you finally decide on after driving several.

SCUDERIA928 · 12-30-2015, 02:20 PM

I have a 99 with all records, extra set of tires and rims. $11,000.00. Engine replaced with 75k, car has about 107k.

Matt Monson · 01-03-2016, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikefocke

Of course all prices are local but I'd think in the Denver climate you would be lower. It is better to pay more for the right car with good maintenance history than one where you'll be putting the same money into it by the time all the repairs are done.

The 2003 example from Nashville has upgraded wheels and an aero kit plus a bigger engine, glass window roof, etc. To get the car you posted about originally to the level I'd demand before driving it could cost $3k. Brakes and tires and engine problems are kinda important.

By all means spend $200-300 on a PPI for the car you finally decide on after driving several.

Denver runs high. Not a ton of inventory here. Last summer when I was Boxster shopping I was looking in CA because the price difference more than offsets plane ticket and the drive back home.

tcar · 01-03-2016, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt Monson

Denver runs high. Not a ton of inventory here. Last summer when I was Boxster shopping I was looking in CA because the price difference more than offsets plane ticket and the drive back home.

Thanks, I was looking at ebay prices and the CA cars seemed less than cars here.

tcar · 01-03-2016, 08:24 PM

How does one tell if the Boxster (early - pre 2000) is an 'S' version.

I saw one last week at a dealer that had emblems removed, they said it was an 'S' but how would one know?

Code in the VIN? or???

tonythetarga · 01-04-2016, 04:58 AM

Base boxsters are 5 speed and S are 6. Rotors are larger as well. Stock S are typically drilled but drilled are available so it's not a certain distinction. Same with calipers. Stock base are black, S are red, but again those can be painted.
An engine # decode sheet will help but the trans is the easiest way to tell.
Pre 2000 the only choice was a 2.5 base Boxster.

tcar · 01-04-2016, 08:58 AM

Thanks, Tony.

Are both the base and 'S' available with Tiptronic?

Sorry for the dumb questions... just getting familiarized.

mikefocke · 01-04-2016, 10:19 AM

Yes all 986s are available with TIP. Owned a '99 and an '01S. Both TIPs.

The S was first available in 2000 as a '00 model year.

You might find this guys web site helpful in defining the differences in early Boxsters.

tcar · 01-06-2016, 05:47 PM

Trying now to look at cars w/ the IMS, RMS etc. already done... not many around, and they are way more expensive.

johnsjmc · 05:31 AM

I just moved to the dark side after driving air cooled ones off and on for last 40 years. I sold my high miles 993 last year and just bought a Boxster S for roughly 1/4 of what I sold the 911 for.
I picked up a 2 owner 2001 Boxster S in Florida for $9300 with 67000 mi.
The small dealer was asking 11k but after 2-3 months lowered it to 10k OBO.
It was an auction car with good paint ,tires brakes etc but no records. after buying it I found the books and some records hidden behind the spare tire. Also discovered the original window sticker and lucked out with an m030 car with about 10k in options. I knew it was m030 but not the extent of other equipment. I called last owner and found clutch and other work was done at about 50k so at least that is good. My only ppi was a good drive and a gut feeling about general condition being up to date tires brakes etc.
I intend to replace the IMS bearing myself along with the AOS .over the next month or so. The car did the infamous oil cloud once the other day after winding it up to redline in 2 gears .
I,ve been looking for at least a couple months and you can certainly do better than the car you are looking at in the OP.

tcar · 01-08-2016, 08:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnsjmc

I just moved to the dark side after driving air cooled ones off and on for last 40 years. I sold my high miles 993 last year and just bought a Boxster S for roughly 1/4 of what I sold the 911 for.
I picked up a 2 owner 2001 Boxster S in Florida for $9300 with 67000 mi.
The small dealer was asking 11k but after 2-3 months lowered it to 10k OBO.
It was an auction car with good paint ,tires brakes etc but no records. after buying it I found the books and some records hidden behind the spare tire. Also discovered the original window sticker and lucked out with an m030 car with about 10k in options. I knew it was m030 but not the extent of other equipment. I called last owner and found clutch and other work was done at about 50k so at least that is good. My only ppi was a good drive and a gut feeling about general condition being up to date tires brakes etc.
I intend to replace the IMS bearing myself along with the AOS .over the next month or so. The car did the infamous oil cloud once the other day after winding it up to redline in 2 gears .
I,ve been looking for at least a couple months and you can certainly do better than the car you are looking at in the OP.

Good story...

Yes the OP car is cheap (still for sale, no takers yet) but I think to fix everything, you end up with a $6.5k valued car for around $8k.