Cayman overheated on me today - Need help

stealthn · 05-29-2016, 04:19 PM

First time ever, luckily I was right by a service station and pulled in and shutoff. I flat decked her home and am looking at the fans, but I can't see where in the Durametric software is the Fans activations.

Can someone please let me know what section these are in and what they are called?

As well, where are the relay and fuses for these as the docs in the fuse box don't have anything like fans.

Thanks in advance,

Bob

stealthn · 05-29-2016, 04:56 PM

Found it - it's under the "Front" section - Radiator fans.

Fans both worked in high and low and engine fan worked as well. I'll let it cool then check the fluid. Could be the thermostat....
Is there a durametric option to open the thermostat?

Anything else I should check?

Thanks

tonythetarga · 05-30-2016, 06:01 PM

How many miles? Could be water pump if fluid levels check o k

Cajundaddy · Cajundaddy's Garage

Water pump is the most common cause of overheat in a 987. Mileage? Any recent work done? Were you driving or stuck in traffic?

Casey at Pelican Parts · 05-31-2016, 10:57 AM

+1 on the water pump and thermostat. If you have a way to jack up the car and feel around on the hoses at the engine you can see if the coolant is circulating out of the thermostat. If the car is above normal operating temps the hoses should all feel equally hot to the touch. Cold hoses mean bad water pump and or thermostat.

stealthn · 06:41 PM

Thanks guys, it has 83000km (50000 miles). Funny thing was I drove across the city with no issues, stopped for about 45 minutes, then headed back. It went hot in about 10 minutes of driving.

I haven't had a chance to look at it further but it's in the garage on jacks. If pump, would there be any indication like sound or problems with the drive belt?

The strange thing is I checked the coolant, and it's up to the top of the cap, much higher than where I filled it at the start of the year (up to the high mark). I did have new Bilstein's and a half shaft put on 3 weeks ago, but I doubt the dealer would have messed with the coolant system.

I've never seen signs of a leak, but I am suspecting an air bubble, but I don't know how it would have got in. My plan is to warm it up and feel the hoses at the rads to see if fluid is going forward, if not pump and thermostat, if so run it up in temp with Durametric hooked up to watch the temp. Any other thoughts?

tonythetarga · 06-01-2016, 03:55 AM

The coolant levels in the tank fluctuates so I'm not sure that's the problem. If the cooling system hasn't been opened up, drained or refilled etc, then I doubt an air bubble. I think the rx for water pump change out is 60,000 miles, so it could be that or thermostat. If the serpentine belt broke then you have no circulation. Pull off the cover behind the seats and check that before you start it up. Could be that simple, albeit unusual.

stealthn · 06-02-2016, 08:36 PM

Not the belt, I changed it ladt year, and checked it's fine.

I'll get it up to temp and see what's going on.

stealthn · 06-07-2016, 01:57 PM

Alright I'm really confused now, I got a chance to work on the car and got it up to temp. I watched the fans come up and off as the car warmed up, then it got to 175 and just stayed there (normal). I put on the heat, AC, rev'd her up but it all seemed normal.

The strange part is the hoses to the rads never even got warm, so I don't know what's going on with that?

I think I'll have to do a few laps of my street to see what happens under load, but this is a strange one.

stealthn · 03:20 PM

I don't know I assume there is only two hoses, feed and return, and both were cool.

Casey at Pelican Parts · 06-07-2016, 03:51 PM

Either way, if the car is at operating temp via the gauge the inlet hoses and outlet hoses should both be warm if the thermostat is open, and the pump is pumping.

tonythetarga · 06-08-2016, 05:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by casey at pelican parts

either way, if the car is at operating temp via the gauge the inlet hoses and outlet hoses should both be warm if the thermostat is open, and the pump is pumping.

+1

stealthn · 06-09-2016, 02:18 PM

I've ordered a pump and thermostat kit from Pelican to hopefully correct the issue.

Casey at Pelican Parts · 06-09-2016, 02:25 PM

Stealthn, If you wouldn't mind comparing the pieces, possibly taking some pictures of the two pumps and thermostats side by side before installing that would be great! I am guessing that you might be able to see some sort of difference in the water pump impeller, or the thermostat. Your pictures might possibly help someone in a similar predicament.

stealthn · 06-09-2016, 02:29 PM

Sure no problem; do I have to "bleed" the system or can I just refill the coolant after buttoning it up?

stealthn · 06-20-2016, 07:12 PM

OK almost got everything together, thermostat, water pump, Airlift, anti-freeze, etc.

I got the car jacked up and had a look, the stupid undercarriage tray is a stupid design and was tricky to get off (this without a lift). Now I see the thermostat and see it's caked in dried coolant. Not sure if it's leaking down from the water pump, but going to change them both so I don't really care.

There is little to no room under the car to work so I'll jack up the read end a little more for the swaps, so I can work under it. Sure seems like the front of the engine is a long way in there when you're under the rear of the car

Will take pictures when I get everything out to compare

stealthn · 06-27-2016, 05:44 PM

So I get under there and find Hex head sockets are required for the thermostat and regular sockets for the waterpump - wtf?

Off to the hardware store

stealthn · 07-02-2016, 02:47 PM

OK phase 1 done, I got the pump and thermo off; what a job! especially without a lift and only a foot of clearance. The pump impellers look fine so that's good but it was leaking out the shaft in the front. I will assume it was the culprit.

Here are pictures of the pumps - old and new, the front of the old one and the old and new thermostats

I'll button everything up tomorrow and then I get to try out my new Airlift so I can pressure test and fill the system with no bleeding.

stealthn · 07-24-2016, 08:56 PM

Still have an issue, trying to use an Airlift system to get vacuum and fill the coolant, problem is I can't get vacuum. I've verified I tightened all the hoses I was working on, pump and thermostat, and verified the Airlift is sucking vaccum but I can't get any vacuum.
Is there an overflow line for the 06 Cayman or is it completely closed system?

I even bought a new compressor thinking my little one does not have enough CFM, but same deal.

Thoughts?

Casey at Pelican Parts · 07-25-2016, 06:45 AM

Oh yeah, forgot about that. On the Cayman you have to pull the vacuum from inside the engine compartment, not at the coolant lid in the rear luggage compartment. Open the engine lid, and to the right side you will see a coolant reservoir. Remove the cap there, and i believe you have to pinch off a vent line that goes to the filler neck, then pull the vacuum from the coolant reservoir inside the engine compartment.