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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Mount Pleasant, South Carolina
Posts: 14,422
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Thanks, guys.
I bought this crimper, but I’m not sure it’s going to work. I was spinning it around inside the crimper, trying to see what way would work best. What I really need is for the two sides to fold in on each other, if that makes sense. ![]()
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Posts: 37,987
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There is a way to get that barrel shape started before smashing it. I'm sure you can improvise.
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Registered
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The crimped connection is quite a bit sturdier and with it being in an application that can draw, heat build up should be a concern, ive seen soldered joints let go under those conditions. When it comes to heavier awg my go to is a hydraulic hand held crimper.
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Guy Zindel |
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Counterclockwise?
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No solder.
I would suggest adhesive shrink tube after crimping. (put it on loose before crimping obviously)
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Rod 1986 Carrera 2001 996TT A bunch of stuff with spark plugs |
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Registered
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Quote:
Most of the stuff I work on is 6 volts which is sensitive to any resistance. I crimp AND solder AND shrink tube the joints. Solder keeps corrosion out of the connection. You don't want it running down the wire, just a bit inside the connector. I don't bother with solder on 12 volts.
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Severna Park, MD
Posts: 331
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The area you are trying to crimp is not an electrical connection...it is a strain relief. Crimped ring end goes on cable that goes over bolt. insulated wire is held in the "crimp" section. Just squeeze with vice grips once you have fastened wire under the bolt.
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Counterclockwise?
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This is the crimper I use. I didn't get the hammer one because where do you hammer it when it is beside the battery?
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Rod 1986 Carrera 2001 996TT A bunch of stuff with spark plugs |
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