Kitchen Remodel - Question #2 Subfloor

Tidybuoy · 03-30-2021, 09:22 AM

Not really a question but looking for confirmation that I am doing the right thing.

I will eventually be installing glue down cork flooring. It is 8mm thick.

My current situation: Orig kitchen had/has linoleum that appears to be glued/welded to 1/2" plywood subfloor. This subfloor has tar paper that is super stuck. I'm scraping away and will purchase a wallpaper steamer today to help it release better.

The additional room that I am connecting to had hardwood flooring that is nailed down to planks that are on top of the joists. (See photos). When I'm done, both rooms need to be a perfectly level plane as one seamless floor so I will be adding 1/2" subfloor over the planks.

My question: Should I be adding tar paper or another type of barrier over the 1x6 planks before adding the subfloor? The house is on a raised foundation so there is not a lot of moisture but definitely air is able to get thru. I need to be mindful of not raising the floor height too much as the cork flooring is very thick however, it appears that the linoleum + subfloor overlay is about equal to the 8mm cork.

I'm open to suggestions from the experts here as I am a novice. I have watched several youtube vids and the advice varies.

look 171 · 03-30-2021, 12:58 PM

Personally, I take all the sub floor out and replace with 3/4" plywood. Glue, and nail to joist. You will have a great stiff floor through out and level too. If not, use self leveling compound to take care of the dips. Block off floor joist if you have it all open. That's just me being anal and I do this all day with client's floor once opened up. Its much better work. In your situation, you shoud be able to get away with just stripping off the sub floor under the linoleum. Dealing with that glue is a btich. Easier to just remove the sub floor.

Tidybuoy · 03-30-2021, 01:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by look 171

Personally, I take all the sub floor out and replace with 3/4" plywood. Glue, and nail to joist. You will have a great stiff floor through out and level too. If not, use self leveling compound to take care of the dips. Block off floor joist if you have it all open. That's just me being anal and I do this all day with client's floor once opened up. Its much better work. In your situation, you shoud be able to get away with just stripping off the sub floor under the linoleum. Dealing with that glue is a btich. Easier to just remove the sub floor.

Just for clarification, are you suggesting the removal of my current 1/2" plywood subfloor or the 1x6 boards that are underneath the plywood. Basically, I have 1.5" of wood on top of my joists now.

I'm a little cautious of replacing my 1/2" ply with 3/4 because I want the floor to match up with the rest of my house. If I go too thick, there will be a step up into the kitchen.

Or,

Are you suggesting the removal of the 1x6 and replace with plywood?

I will try the steamer tonight on the tar paper and see what I'm dealing with once removed. As far as removing the linoleum, it's going fairly easy using a big floor scraper - it's just the tar paper that doesn't want to budge except in a few spots which is then causing some unevenness.

look 171 · 03-30-2021, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tidybuoy

Just for clarification, are you suggesting the removal of my current 1/2" plywood subfloor or the 1x6 boards that are underneath the plywood. Basically, I have 1.5" of wood on top of my joists now.

That's a lot of sub floor on top of an existing floor. What's it butt up to outside of the kitchen?

I'm a little cautious of replacing my 1/2" ply with 3/4 because I want the floor to match up with the rest of my house. If I go too thick, there will be a step up into the kitchen.

Or,

Are you suggesting the removal of the 1x6 and replace with plywood?

Remove all the plywood sub-floor and 2x6 subfloor through out. You will be surprise that the joist are all at one level. Lay 5/8" (at the very least) or 3/4" sub floor through out. Install the cork floor on top of that. It should match your existing flooring outside of the kitchen. Given the are of your house, I bet it has a strip oak flooring from way back sitting on top of 1x6 sub floor. The new 3/4" sub floor should be the same thickness as the 1x6 sub floor. the difference between the cork and the hardwood floor should be minor, 3/13"? Chamfer the oak flooring to match the actual thickness of the cork. That's if the existing floor is hardwood.

I will try the steamer tonight on the tar paper and see what I'm dealing with once removed. As far as removing the linoleum, it's going fairly easy using a big floor scraper - it's just the tar paper that doesn't want to budge except in a few spots which is then causing some unevenness.

Remove that plywood floor, POS, under the linoleum would be the very least I would do.

look 171 · 03-30-2021, 02:00 PM

The tar paper is the dark gray color floor next to the linoleum? That's the 1/2 thick material?

john70t · 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tidybuoy

The additional room that I am connecting to had hardwood flooring that is nailed down to planks that are on top of the joists.

When I'm done, both rooms need to be a perfectly level plane as one seamless floor so I will be adding 1/2" subfloor over the planks.

(^for clarification)

Glue 'n screw is what I've heard is best in any wood situation.

There are very different grades of "4x8 plywood" ...
Get one rated for flooring. (Not OSB of course)

Never a bounce afterwards.
Plus more equal load distribution onto the foundation.

908/930 · 908/930's Garage

I am pretty sure you should place some sort of moisture barrier below the floor. If you are trying to get the Cork and the hardwood floors to line up right flat recheck your measurements once the other floor and its 1/2 ply is removed, the floor glue that I have used is quite thick depending what glue trowel you use, min 1/32 up to 1/16 added thickness. I installed cork in the kitchen and really like it. And I always glue between layers of wood for subfloor(usually PL Premium) and prefer screws to nails.

How good do the 1x6 plank in there now feel, are they pretty flat and level? I have done what Look171 suggested and tear everything out but it was to adjust the height down some.

I guess if you put a vapour barrier below the plywood you won't be able to glue, I am usually dealing with interior space below floors.

Is the floor you are joining to 3/4" thick? You said 8mm cork, so 5/16" + 1/2" ply and glue, you will be higher.