Solid Hardwood Flooring

[wilnj]

Originally Posted by Crowbob

Well there you go! Asked and answered! Thank you, gentlemen.



It’s closer to 1/8” but varies. Schluter strip is the answer, I think. The strip will be fastened to the subfloor as will suggested. But do I have to leave a gap for expansion of the wood? Up here in N. Michigan we have wide seasonal variations in humidity.



Here’s a pic of the project:

If you’re running the floor in that direction relative to the tile you won’t see as much movement across the width of the floor as you will along it’s length.

I see no reason for any transition other than a sanded caulk.


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[sammyg2]

Am I the only one here who was wondering which color of RTV he should use?

[Crowbob]

Yes, sammy.

You are.

[dad911]

Originally Posted by Crowbob

.......The plan is to finish the stairs (risers and treads) with the same flooring stock (glued) which will be a challenge. I got time to do it right.......

With the stairs, you really should keep the riser heights all the same, or it is uncomfortable/tripping hazard.

I'e done them by replacing treads, veneering treads, and capping.

I don't see how you will get nosing for the stairs to look correct by using the flooring.
Sometimes there is a matching nosing?

Frankly, around here, it's only about $1.50 more per sf. to get unfinished installed, sanded, and finished, over a decent quality 3/4 prefinished. Then it will all match.

[john70t]

Originally Posted by Crowbob

DIY. It's over a dry, insulated and finished basement.

Sealer and vapor barrier?

[Crowbob]

That's what I was thinking, Zeke. The longitudinal dimension is what changes least. The boards get fatter, not longer.

John, no sealer, no barrier. Just felt.

[island911]

^ +1

Wood Movement

[Crowbob]

Originally Posted by dad911

With the stairs, you really should keep the riser heights all the same, or it is uncomfortable/tripping hazard.

I'e done them by replacing treads, veneering treads, and capping.

I don't see how you will get nosing for the stairs to look correct by using the flooring.
Sometimes there is a matching nosing?

Frankly, around here, it's only about $1.50 more per sf. to get unfinished installed, sanded, and finished, over a decent quality 3/4 prefinished. Then it will all match.

I ordered matching nose for the flooring. But yes, buying unfinished treads is easier and waaay less fun.

[wilnj]

Originally Posted by Zeke

I think you have that backwards.

Yes. Evidently I did.


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[Crowbob]

Woo Hoo!

Stairs is done. Here’s a pic of the bottom landing.

Now for the floor. I’m still a bit conflicted, per normal, about using or not using a Schluter strip b/n the bare wood and tile. I’m now leaning toward no strip and simply squeezing matching sanded caulk in the 3/8” gap and calling it good. Will I regret that plan?

[Evans, Marv]

Those stairs are gorgeous!! Here is a close up detail of the transition between my kitchen tile and dining area wood flooring. It's more than ten years old now.

[Crowbob]

Thank you, Marv!

Your situation is a bit different than mine. My flooring will run longitudinally along the tile. That means with expansion it will push up against the tile. Also, in your pic it looks to me like the tile and wood are separated only by grout. That’s the look I want, except I’m using caulk to fill the 3/8” gap. Unless, of course, the real craftsmen on this board chime in and tell me otherwise (?).

[Hugh R]

Check the clearance of the new wood floor against the bottom of doors, dish washer, frig, etc. You don't want to get into adjusting those.

[widebody911]

Are going to do the drapes to match?

[Rusty Heap]

welcome to my world.

I need to first REMOVE a 135 reef tank. 18x24x72"

then pull 26 year old carpet, and lay this down.


https://www.flooranddecor.com/rigid-core-luxury-vinyl-plank-and-tile/auburn-oak-rigid-core-luxury-vinyl-plank---foam-back-100406388.html

[rayshow]

If you want hardwood flooring, then buy dark wood. The smoking/steaming/baking process has enabled the client to get a dark and also hard-wearing wood – like oak. The beauty of these jobbies is that if they get scratched or marked, you don’t end up revealing unstained timber underneath.

[KFC911]

Originally Posted by Crowbob

Woo Hoo!

Stairs is done. Here’s a pic of the bottom landing.

Now for the floor. I’m still a bit conflicted, per normal, about using or not using a Schluter strip b/n the bare wood and tile. I’m now leaning toward no strip and simply squeezing matching sanded caulk in the 3/8” gap and calling it good. Will I regret that plan?

She did a very nice job! So...how was the sammich ?

[Crowbob]

Update. Finished. Now for some Turkey sammiches, please. Light on the mayo, lots of pepper.

[KFC911]

Nice transition she did with the lile too...now ya can burp

[fintstone]

Originally Posted by Zeke

I don't think there's much of a choice but to get involved. What frosts my ass is when the floor installer goes right up to the dishwasher and stops. I've had people call me to remove tiles to get the washer out. On one occasion I had to massage the bullnose of a granite countertop to barely coax the washer out from under the counter. It was that or lift the counter which I really didn't want to do.

You'd be surprised what an 1/8th inch can do.

I have that in a house right now. Somehow they tiled the slide-in range and dishwasher in. I simply cannot pull them out. Good thing I am pulling them out to replace the tile. Although the tile is not that old, it is cracking everywhere throughout the house (lots of Tile). Poor install or inferior tile...or both. Most likely the earlier vice the latter.