Cable Railing for Decks

[look 171]

Hope you can understand my chicken scratch drawing. This is the simplest way without having to rebuild the structure. The blocking will keep post from moving by jamming itself against the post and do bolt the post through the rim joist. The only weak spots are the ends where it takes the blunt of the tension from the cables (if you can live with looking at a cross brace, this is the time to do that). That corners must be strong and pre-drilled with bolt and or metal holding it in place. The blocking that run along the floor joist keeps the post from moving front and aft. This isn't too important because there's no cable tension on it. At the end of the day, I favor steel posts but they don't have the warmth of wood most people like.

[look 171]

Blocking can be a 4x material. That's one way to make sure the posts aint gonna to move a bit. The width of the 2X should be same as floor and rim joist

[RWebb]

THx! I will photo and measure under the deck.

[RWebb]

ok, here is a pic of the support structures & posts - 16" OC for joists; 32" OC for posts

Note the location of the posts - they must have used lag bolts as I see no way to bolt them in those locations

the longest run of the "J" shaped deck is the bottom of the J - looks more like |_______ with a short run on one end and a longer run on the other end; the bottom of the J is ~~ 45 ft. long

[look 171]

Webb, are you willing to put the post on the inside of the rim joist? There's only one or two deck board that has to be remove to achieve this. This way the post can be bolted through the rim joist and the post. Block off after that. I suggest doubling up on the rim joist for a more solid construction and better support for the post. Get a pic of the corners

[dad911]

Are those joists 24" O.C.?

He could block between the posts.

Maybe add a few ledgerloks from the backside.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by dad911

Are those joists 24" O.C.?

He could block between the posts.

Maybe add a few ledgerloks from the backside.

Those post aren't the one I am concern about since there's really no tension on them. But a couple of lag bolts will eventually come loose over time. I was thinking the same thing, it will help tremendously with lateral force, but the movement is going to be front to back where its held up by the lags. I already have an idea how the end posts are attached, same as the others, then it will not be enough to hold the tension of the cables but blocking from the outside will help

[look 171]

I just got thinking about this. You are only putting on the cables and are not doing anything to the deck at all?

[RWebb]

Originally Posted by look 171

Webb, are you willing to put the post on the inside of the rim joist? There's only one or two deck board that has to be remove to achieve this. This way the post can be bolted through the rim joist and the post. Block off after that. I suggest doubling up on the rim joist for a more solid construction and better support for the post. Get a pic of the corners

Yes. I am gonna let a contractor do this* but will raise that with him.

Thanks! I'll take a corner pic later.

Yes, the horizontal deck boards are fine. I just want to get rid of 144 2x2 spindles that need to be restained (x4 sides = 500+ sides to stain).

Other ideas?



* I'm too old to get 25 ft.. in the air on a ladder...

[look 171]

Originally Posted by RWebb

Yes. I am gonna let a contractor do this* but will raise that with him.

Thanks! I'll take a corner pic later.

Yes, the horizontal deck boards are fine. I just want to get rid of 144 2x2 spindles that need to be restained (x4 sides = 500+ sides to stain).

Other ideas?




* I'm too old to get 25 ft.. in the air on a ladder...

Forget that. All this done from top of deck sitting down with a glass of wine on one hand and cigar on the other