Those are so very cool! Geeking out over here. Have you tried throwing any of those?

It's crossed my mind, but no. If you saw one up close you'd see the level of finish I take them to (400 grit). It's hard to convince my friends to even use them for kindling. They want to hang them up but tools are to be used IMO

They're really nice. Love the handles! Enjoy the work. That's a heck of a piece of rosewood!

Hey Steve, I found it. You still want a Stanley No. 8 cabinet scarper? Get me me your address again.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710198407.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710198407.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710198407.jpg

Instruction sheet for above scraper - one of which I own:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710198965.jpg

Thanks tons, fella. PM sent.

Nice thanks.

I think pretty much anything will work as a burnisher, right? Probably even a screwdriver or ratchet extension.

I've got a steel for kitchen knives, that would probably work as well, I think.

I've used a smooth screwdriver shank and also I've got an old valve stem. Anything that would be hardened - and preferably smooth. Socket extension would be fine.

I just use a screw driver. It still pretty sharp after all these years sitting in those old boxes in my shop.

Got your PM. Swamped this week, but will make it out to the post office sometime next week.

No worries. You're doing me the favor. Take all of the time you want.

Your kitchen steel likely has mini groves. To roll a burr you need a very smooth round object. Shiny smooth. I don't go to the 75º extreme. I just start level and make 3-4 passes to about 30 degrees. If you are clever you can make a burr on both sides and flip the thing over when needed. That way you have 4 edges before rolling the burr again. Every other or 3 rd time you should use the file to square up the edge for new burrs.

New wood a burr might last a long time. Using it to remove finish and the burr can go away in a few scrapes. It pays to buy good scrapers. One I have is from a restaurant supply and used on griddles. It's very stiff so the corners could dig in. The thinnest in the kit is about a 16th. You can flex that to scrape just an inch wide path.

Our Steel is round, but only has the ridges that you mention on half and is smooth on the other half (kind of weird and unusual, I know).

Then it's good.

I often use a utility knife blade. Works great. For larger surface, I just use my random orbital sander and step down in grit. Of course, with a glass of wine on one hand and a cig. on the other.

Grandpa Amu makes a lot of creative things using only hand tools:
https://vid.puffyan.us/search?q=Grandpa+Amu+

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711726669.jpg
From this^
to this

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711726799.jpg
1.5'x5' end/display table, whatever. Wanted to keep it simple and delicate looking but strong. 5"x.5" stainless steel doweling tight fitted with epoxy plus a little detail on the tapered legs. All Rosewoodhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711727450.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711727450.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1711727450.jpg
Avoided leg bracing with the steel dowels which also add a decorative feature. In the finishing process now. A few more coats of Tung oil and done

That a beauty, Greg. I can say although I work with wood often, I don't actually build anything. So my hat's off to you for a really nice piece. I do finishing though. Not refinishing per se, but conservation in a sense. In reality, I do a lot of just saving what is there w/o wholesale stripping.

The reason I post is because in the last couple or 3 years I've been inundated with MCM furniture, walnut or teak, and sometimes I get rosewood on other pieces. My last restoration was an inlayed rosewood lid from at least 100 years ago.

So I use oils as you are. My suggestion is, if you don't mind, is too use some rottenstone on a couple of intermediate coats. Try that on a scrap and let me know. I've had tremendous success using RS and pumice when the finish is a little more coarse.

Most of the time I get a glass smooth finish that isn't high gloss. Wax does come into play, but that's another paragraph. One thing I do know is that it takes more time than patience. I can easily spend some time each day for 10 days on a finish. (In good weather.)

Thanks. Never tried a stone but I will. I abrade between coats with 600 grit paper and hit it with 0000 steel wool after the final

With just 2 applications of Tung oil the finish will be adequate yet not glossy. I wanted this piece to shine so I'll do 6 or 7 wipes. As I'm sure you're aware, Tung oil is a really hard protective finish, not what people think of an oil

Wow, rottenstone and plumice? That's old timers talking. I had an old timer back in the mid 80s show me a few trick. I was making furniture back then trying to make a few bucks going to college. He was often hired to finish my pieces.

The same time, I learn about the art of French polish.