Always an important consideration when making an axe

Glad it turned out well!
Never heard of it.

I believe we had a presenter at one of our woodworking guild seminars that was discusses finishes - and they mentioned the product as one they sometimes use. I've got no experience with it though.

Here is what a book that I have on repairing furniture say's: Tight rolls of felt saturated with a thin mineral oil that is supposed to remove scratches, but actually wets down any dry particles of finish in them. You should get better results with colored polishes or shoe polish."

Kitchen finally coming into focus:


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1707713211.jpg

Thanks. I had an idea that it wasn't a magic stick.

Cranked out another table top. Was a little heavy with the white pigment.. So it looks like you looking the ocean from a plane, with some cloudcover..

Or maybe you see waves.. sometimes less is more with the pigments..


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1708532602.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1708532602.jpg

You could give a table top like the recent one above some scale (and whimsy) by adding a tiny die-cast model of a car on the shore or some other beach-y artifact.

I think your work is beautiful.

I've thought about embedding things in the resin, seashells etc.. but even the tiniest shell would look huge considering the scale of the table tops.. The one I just finished is 24in, the previous was 48in

I have an idea developing of an Escher like table using my laser engraver, wood, and resin and dyes...

She got legs... and know how to use....

Got some legs from amazon...

The girlfriend then claimed it....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709507775.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709528627.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709528627.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709528627.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709528627.jpg
About done with the axes and hatchets. I've given away all but my first one. Everyone wants to hang them up as art but I say use it! at least for kindling. Tools should be used for what they're designed for. Think I'll do a hammer or two and then start the table I have in mind

This is a tangent so sorry.

I have vinyl (fake wood grain) strips on the main floor. Over time gaps have developed along the short side (butt end) between some of the strips.

I can't even imagine a way to remediate this other than re-installing much of the flooring.

Any ideas?

TIA

:eek:

Wow! Very nice. I'd somehow missed your other post farther up showing one of the hung axes.

What's the story with these? I assume you hung them, or did you have something to do with the production of the blades as well? Did you steam bend the handle on the one or just select the handle for the grain that curved? What sort of wood is the handle made from? I'd have a hard time putting something like that to use.

Colored caulk. You can varigate the colors somewhat using 2 shades close to each other. Or you can sprinkle dye powder in the wet caulk a lightly tool it with a wet, smooth rag.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709590501.jpg
I just make the handles. A buddy gave me a few planks of inch thick really old Rosewood his grandfather brought back from Asia a hundred years ago. The curve in the handles is not steam bent, I split the board and followed the bent grain with the help of my band saw, my router table and lots of sanding. Final finish is Howard's Feed and Wax (basically bees wax) sanded in with 400 grit. The heads are Damascus steel hand forged in Pakistan and of excellent quality.

Thanks Zeke.

My vinyl bathroom floor tiles shrunk over time. A bit of caulk between made it watertight again.
Never thought about the color powder.

Sounds like you have loose lay click together planks and a butt joint has failed. Not uncommon. I fix this with super glue, a short 4x4 block, double stick tape and a hammer. Stick the block to the plank near the gap and before you beat it home (with your foot on the block) put a few drops of super glue along the locking butt joint. Pick the plank with the shortest distance from a wall. The joint will typically continue to migrate if you just fill the gap with caulk or whatever. My method is a permanent fix.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1710181531.jpg
They're stacking up and all spoken for. The larger heads are 6" point to point and 7" deep. Not pictured are 2 I've already given away. All a little different and each is about a days work. On the far right is a chunk of the raw Rosewood. I'll never sell one, they're all gifted.