Woodworking and carpentry thread

[masraum]

Originally Posted by look 171

Steve, I drove the old air cool car out to the shop yesterday and found the brace and an old egg beater hand drill. They are in really good shape. I ended up doing some cleaning after digging out the brace and lost track of time but will go back next week and see if there are any more old hand tools for ya.

Thank you so much. I'll often have the same problem when I start to clean or organize, I'll start going through everything and time gets away from me.

Interested in a couple of rasps? I think I know where there's a few Riffler files somewhere. They are yours if you like fine woodworking. Its your turn to do the fine stuff. I spend a lot of time with my kids now. We are finally building our second floor deck. He will be learning how to build a night stand first for my mom after deck is done then the rest of the bedroom furniture including a new bed frame. The fine stuff? He will have to learn it on his own.

I do want to really step up my game. The missus wants me to make some built-ins in this house that are going to be much more like furniture than what I've made in the past. I'd love to be able to do fine woodworking. I'm not sure that I'm worthy of your confidence. If you send me Riffler files, I'll do my best to ensure that I use them when appropriate.

thanks again for everything.

This is interesting and reitterates something that I saw in an article online a month or two ago.

[masraum]

I had no idea this sort of thing existed (which really isn't saying much). Apparently, it's for planing curved surfaces. Looks like it would do concave or convex. Pretty cool.

[look 171]

Speaking of that... maybe its your chance to try one?

I hope you can use this lil' convex sole plane. I gathered up a brand new Stanley #49 bit gauge. Who the heck uses a brace without having a bit gauge as back up in case you decided to stop half way and drill move then one hole. We can't have that now, can we? Incoming. Will run to post office in the next couple days. BTW, Who the heck uses a Yankee screwdriver? You can tell me how one works. Its brand new, so there's no excuse for you now.

[Zeke]

I've got 4 Yankee SD's. Since I deal with a lot of flat head, and oval head slotted screws, I'm happy to have them on hand and working well. The tiny one is not really a Yankee and it drills pilot holes. There are better tools for that.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by Zeke

I've got 4 Yankee SD's. Since I deal with a lot of flat head, and oval head slotted screws, I'm happy to have them on hand and working well. The tiny one is not really a Yankee and it drills pilot holes. There are better tools for that.

Tiny one, you mean the egg beater? The Yankee is in the first photo with the dark red handle.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by look 171

Tiny one, you mean the egg beater? The Yankee is in the first photo with the dark red handle.

No, it's push in pilot hole drill. At least it came with only a few straight 2-flute bits. The bits look more like reamers and they are not tapered which would be better for wood screws.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by Zeke

No, it's push in pilot hole drill. At least it came with only a few straight 2-flute bits. The bits look more like reamers and they are not tapered which would be better for wood screws.

Brad pusher?

[masraum]

Originally Posted by look 171

Speaking of that... maybe its your chance to try one?

I hope you can use this lil' convex sole plane. I gathered up a brand new Stanley #49 bit gauge. Who the heck uses a brace without having a bit gauge as back up in case you decided to stop half way and drill move then one hole. We can't have that now, can we? Incoming. Will run to post office in the next couple days. BTW, Who the heck uses a Yankee screwdriver? You can tell me how one works. Its brand new, so there's no excuse for you now.

That's super cool! Thanks tons for everything. I can't wait to put the stuff that you've sent / are sending to use, and I will use it all too! I can't thank you enough. I'll certainly provide updates when I start building things.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by look 171

Brad pusher?

It could be used to make holes for brads. But as I said, the bits are straight fluted with just 2 flutes. So it doesn't wind out the shavings like a twist bit. The points are chiseled.

What, wait! This is a tool you've never seen?

[masraum]

Originally Posted by Zeke

No, it's push in pilot hole drill. At least it came with only a few straight 2-flute bits. The bits look more like reamers and they are not tapered which would be better for wood screws.

Interesting, I used to have a few straight fluted drill bits, that I think came from my grandfather through my dad. I have/had no idea what they'd have been used for, but this is what Grainger has to say about them.

Straight-flute drill bits are stronger than spiral-flute drill bits and resist breaking when drilling into hard and abrasive materials, such as hardened steels with a Rockwell hardness of 35 to 60 HRC. The bits provide free-cutting action, generate minimal heat during drilling, and leave a smooth finish on the hole without requiring a reaming pass. The bits' straight flutes help with chip evacuation in horizontal drilling applications.

[masraum]

I, unfortunately, haven't really gotten to start any woodworking yet, but the missus still has plans, so it's going to happen.

I saw this today.

https://texaswoodworkingfestival.com/

When a beer festival meets a woodworking convention, you get the Texas Woodworking Festival. Join us for a day of food, drinks and all things woodworking. The Texas Woodworking Festival is styled like a woodworking themed famers’ market and will exhibit locally made custom furniture, booths selling tools and woodworking wares as well as vendors demonstrating new woodworking products. Grab a friend, woodworking stickers to trade, and join us for the 2nd Annual Texas Woodworking Festival.

[look 171]

That sounds like a fun Saturday.

I am going to get you in the next wood working, furniture and machine fair in Vegas. Its trades only and happens every couple years and the biggest in the world. We just came back from that a few weeks ago. Vegas was hot but the show, not so much. Due to CV19, half the vendor didn't show.

[Crowbob]

I would really appreciate some experienced woodworking advice. The pic shows the top of a staircase with a handrail I salvaged from the demo of a commercial building. I’d like to install some kind of terminal piece on the unfinished ends (top and bottom) of this handrail.

Any suggestions?

[ben parrish]

Cut the ends so they are verticel then route and sand the ends to give a smooth transition to the rail; stain and wax/poly to match

[Crowbob]

Thanks Ben. Yes, that was my original intent.

Problem is the handrail is too short. To be correct, the rail should extend all the way up to the vertical door trim. The rail is a hair shy of 1-1/2” thick, meaning I could somehow cut a 2X whatever and fasten (using dowels?) it to the rail somehow.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by Crowbob

Thanks Ben. Yes, that was my original intent.

Problem is the handrail is too short. To be correct, the rail should extend all the way up to the vertical door trim. The rail is a hair shy of 1-1/2” thick, meaning I could somehow cut a 2X whatever and fasten (using dowels?) it to the rail somehow.

The problem with using a 2x whatever is that it's going to be tough to get a decent look with respect to similar grain.

I'm far from expert. I assume you could find some of the right kind of wood and fashion an end that matches. I don't know if that's going to be white oak or something else. I'm not familiar enough with wood.

[Crowbob]

That’s a good point about matching, Steve.

My tentative solution is to not try to match but rather to paint/opaque stain the added piece black/brown or whatever on both ends of the rail. That may not look too bad. I think the rail is red oak.

I’m also thinking I could use some kind of steel backing plate to firm up the joint.

I think i’m gonna start looking around for 1-1/2” thick solid oak slab or 2 X 12.

[masraum]

I'm sure there are some folks here that could match the stain and get a reasonable grain match, Greg and Look, and probably a few others. I'd never get an exact match and that would bug my wife and I. I think painting is a good option other than that paint will probably wear/scratch, but at least you should be able to touch it up.

I think you could use glue and some sort of joint and be fine without a metal backing plate. I understand that glue should be as strong or stronger than the wood. Incorporate a joint of some sort and you should be good.

You could probably pick up red oak 1x at HD.

[ben parrish]

It’s a pretty simple profile...making an addition would not be that hard for a cabinet shop. Transfer the profile onto graph paper and take detailed pics and start visiting shops. Glue and dowels or screwed inside a pocket would be plenty strong.
Here is something for an idea..

[MBAtarga]

Nothing fancy is needed to cap the ends of that rail. You just need a rectangular block for each end - round off all the sides. Easiest means of attaching it would be dowels probably. Most difficult part will be finishing it so that it matches the existing rail. From the pics - it looks like the rail is oak? If you were a neighbor I could have something over to your house in 15 -30 minutes.