Woodworking and carpentry thread

[70SATMan]

Those are so very cool! Geeking out over here. Have you tried throwing any of those?

[gregpark]

It's crossed my mind, but no. If you saw one up close you'd see the level of finish I take them to (400 grit). It's hard to convince my friends to even use them for kindling. They want to hang them up but tools are to be used IMO

[masraum]

Originally Posted by gregpark

They're stacking up and all spoken for. The larger heads are 6" point to point and 7" deep. Not pictured are 2 I've already given away. All a little different and each is about a days work. On the far right is a chunk of the raw Rosewood. I'll never sell one, they're all gifted.

They're really nice. Love the handles! Enjoy the work. That's a heck of a piece of rosewood!

[look 171]

Hey Steve, I found it. You still want a Stanley No. 8 cabinet scarper? Get me me your address again.

[MBAtarga]

Instruction sheet for above scraper - one of which I own:

[masraum]

Thanks tons, fella. PM sent.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by MBAtarga

Instruction sheet for above scraper - one of which I own:

Nice thanks.

I think pretty much anything will work as a burnisher, right? Probably even a screwdriver or ratchet extension.

I've got a steel for kitchen knives, that would probably work as well, I think.

[MBAtarga]

Originally Posted by masraum

Nice thanks.

I think pretty much anything will work as a burnisher, right? Probably even a screwdriver or ratchet extension.

I've got a steel for kitchen knives, that would probably work as well, I think.

I've used a smooth screwdriver shank and also I've got an old valve stem. Anything that would be hardened - and preferably smooth. Socket extension would be fine.

[look 171]

I just use a screw driver. It still pretty sharp after all these years sitting in those old boxes in my shop.

Got your PM. Swamped this week, but will make it out to the post office sometime next week.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by look 171

I just use a screw driver. It still pretty sharp after all these years sitting in those old boxes in my shop.

Got your PM. Swamped this week, but will make it out to the post office sometime next week.

No worries. You're doing me the favor. Take all of the time you want.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by masraum

Nice thanks.

I think pretty much anything will work as a burnisher, right? Probably even a screwdriver or ratchet extension.

I've got a steel for kitchen knives, that would probably work as well, I think.

Your kitchen steel likely has mini groves. To roll a burr you need a very smooth round object. Shiny smooth. I don't go to the 75º extreme. I just start level and make 3-4 passes to about 30 degrees. If you are clever you can make a burr on both sides and flip the thing over when needed. That way you have 4 edges before rolling the burr again. Every other or 3 rd time you should use the file to square up the edge for new burrs.

New wood a burr might last a long time. Using it to remove finish and the burr can go away in a few scrapes. It pays to buy good scrapers. One I have is from a restaurant supply and used on griddles. It's very stiff so the corners could dig in. The thinnest in the kit is about a 16th. You can flex that to scrape just an inch wide path.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by Zeke

Your kitchen steel likely has mini groves. To roll a burr you need a very smooth round object. Shiny smooth. I don't go to the 75º extreme. I just start level and make 3-4 passes to about 30 degrees. If you are clever you can make a burr on both sides and flip the thing over when needed. That way you have 4 edges before rolling the burr again. Every other or 3 rd time you should use the file to square up the edge for new burrs.

New wood a burr might last a long time. Using it to remove finish and the burr can go away in a few scrapes. It pays to buy good scrapers. One I have is from a restaurant supply and used on griddles. It's very stiff so the corners could dig in. The thinnest in the kit is about a 16th. You can flex that to scrape just an inch wide path.

Our Steel is round, but only has the ridges that you mention on half and is smooth on the other half (kind of weird and unusual, I know).

[Zeke]

Then it's good.

[look 171]

I often use a utility knife blade. Works great. For larger surface, I just use my random orbital sander and step down in grit. Of course, with a glass of wine on one hand and a cig. on the other.

[john70t]

Grandpa Amu makes a lot of creative things using only hand tools:
https://vid.puffyan.us/search?q=Grandpa+Amu+

[gregpark]

From this^
to this


1.5'x5' end/display table, whatever. Wanted to keep it simple and delicate looking but strong. 5"x.5" stainless steel doweling tight fitted with epoxy plus a little detail on the tapered legs. All Rosewood


Avoided leg bracing with the steel dowels which also add a decorative feature. In the finishing process now. A few more coats of Tung oil and done

[Zeke]

That a beauty, Greg. I can say although I work with wood often, I don't actually build anything. So my hat's off to you for a really nice piece. I do finishing though. Not refinishing per se, but conservation in a sense. In reality, I do a lot of just saving what is there w/o wholesale stripping.

The reason I post is because in the last couple or 3 years I've been inundated with MCM furniture, walnut or teak, and sometimes I get rosewood on other pieces. My last restoration was an inlayed rosewood lid from at least 100 years ago.

So I use oils as you are. My suggestion is, if you don't mind, is too use some rottenstone on a couple of intermediate coats. Try that on a scrap and let me know. I've had tremendous success using RS and pumice when the finish is a little more coarse.

Most of the time I get a glass smooth finish that isn't high gloss. Wax does come into play, but that's another paragraph. One thing I do know is that it takes more time than patience. I can easily spend some time each day for 10 days on a finish. (In good weather.)

[gregpark]

Thanks. Never tried a stone but I will. I abrade between coats with 600 grit paper and hit it with 0000 steel wool after the final

[gregpark]

With just 2 applications of Tung oil the finish will be adequate yet not glossy. I wanted this piece to shine so I'll do 6 or 7 wipes. As I'm sure you're aware, Tung oil is a really hard protective finish, not what people think of an oil

[look 171]

Originally Posted by Zeke

That a beauty, Greg. I can say although I work with wood often, I don't actually build anything. So my hat's off to you for a really nice piece. I do finishing though. Not refinishing per se, but conservation in a sense. In reality, I do a lot of just saving what is there w/o wholesale stripping.

The reason I post is because in the last couple or 3 years I've been inundated with MCM furniture, walnut or teak, and sometimes I get rosewood on other pieces. My last restoration was an inlayed rosewood lid from at least 100 years ago.

So I use oils as you are. My suggestion is, if you don't mind, is too use some rottenstone on a couple of intermediate coats. Try that on a scrap and let me know. I've had tremendous success using RS and pumice when the finish is a little more coarse.

Most of the time I get a glass smooth finish that isn't high gloss. Wax does come into play, but that's another paragraph. One thing I do know is that it takes more time than patience. I can easily spend some time each day for 10 days on a finish. (In good weather.)

Wow, rottenstone and plumice? That's old timers talking. I had an old timer back in the mid 80s show me a few trick. I was making furniture back then trying to make a few bucks going to college. He was often hired to finish my pieces.

The same time, I learn about the art of French polish.