A mtb's fork rake maybe different then a typical road bike. I can only assume you installed a road fork on it making twitchy and super responsive to steering impute. Riding a MTB on the road feels really muted and mushy to me. Maybe you miss that feeling with the carbon fork.

This thread is making me want to ride bikes again. Thanks for starting this discussion. The last time I put any miles on my sit bones was 16 years and 25 pounds ago.

I bought a steel 80's Ciocc, all Campy, a while back but never rode it. To me, it's a beautiful work of art so it's been hanging in the garage. Some day I'll sell it. My go-to bike was an aluminum/carbon Novarra from REI. It cost me a pretty penny back in the day but it's probably worth nothing now, except to me. Before I ride it again, I'll have to change tires and tubes plus do a complete tune up. I might join the local bike club again for some motivation.

Carbon forks on steel road frames have been with us for a long time. I first installed on in the later 80s.

I still have this NOS Kinesis waiting for the "right" frame (Probably a De Rosa :)).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1679285025.jpg

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Not sure if this is helpful to you, but here are a few 1" carbon forks at Universal Cycles - spendy and don't take wide tires (28mm max on the Soma)

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=84135&category=633

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=111899&category=633

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=81820&category=633

I was scratching my head about the lengths of those but I think I understand now. They are all threadless so the steering tube is longer. The head/steering tube on the cannondale is 170 mm and its threaded. I don't know if a bike with a threaded fork can be converted to threadless.

This is more new stuff I need to learn.

Wow, I haven't look for a 1" form for some time. I am glas they are still available in full carbon. Light too and Columbus normally makes good products. Thanks for the find. If I had a steel frame, that will be on my bike for sure.

If you guys want steel frame with modern parts, Peter is the go to guy. He's worked on smany very, very nice steel bikes. I drool over them when he post those pics.

Just get out and ride couple time week to get the creaky bones going. You aint that old, man. Instead of a club, just fine a local group and joint in. I am sure there are rides all over the place on Saturday mornings. Some of the local bike shops will have rides going out of the shop. Ciocc are nice bikes. Show us a pic

Back a few years ago there was this woman who had a website about building bicycle frames. Little Fish she called it. She covered it in great detail and skill. Quite impressive person.



Suzy's Blog: 2011

Rich

the frame came today and its in my hot little hand

looks straight

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1679523756.jpg

a lot of scrapes, aka "patina", I could leave it alone and not paint it but I got the paint already

That's one large frame. You know how to perform a simple check if frame is straight?

I wonder if that's has a road racing frame geometry due to having eyelids on the rear dropouts? They are usually found in touring frames

there are only mounts for one water bottle so I think its a race frame and not a touring frame

I think touring bikes of the time had cantilever brakes and there are no mounts for them. I suspect going down hill with a full load of gear would require really good brakes.

I'm looking for a serial number. If I can meet up with the builder maybe he will remember something about it.

Haha, this cracks me up. Guy wants to 'get back into cycling' and starts with a bare old steel frame, no fork. This is NOT how you get back into cycling. This is how you get back into building something. :D

Its all good, you'll get done eventually and you'll enjoy it even better then!

Keep us posted on the project. Yes, absolutely needs paint. I hope you have an airbrush and are aiming at a Colnago level job!

not exactly :D

https://cdn-tp3.mozu.com/24645-37138..._1570734420449

I do have a touch up and a hplv gun

The paint is $18/quart and what I don't use on the bike I can paint my mail box

You can't be serious! :D Tell us you have a sprayer at least!? You aren't going to brush paint it, are you?

You really should reread all my posts on this thread. :) I have Campagnolo hubs that are on 20" bmx wheels for a 10 year old kid. The hubs fit so I can use them if I want to go through the trouble of building the wheels.

The frame was designed for 27" wheels. I put on the 700c from my Cannondale and the brakes are too short.

You go man!!! :)
That said, I reshot one of my bikes several years ago (and a garden tractor). I WISH I had of used a better brand and hardener, or paid somebody to bake it. Looked great at first, but the soft paint chipped, scratched, and flaked even if I put my leg over the bike. It did not hold up to real world life.

I have half a mind to redo the whole thing.

I'm a retiree now so Rust-Oleum is too expensive so I'm using a generic Ace Hardware brand to save a quarter ;D

Those stickers (downtube and headtube) look pretty cool. Just buff and go!!!!

(I know you won't- but I had to say it);)

meh.. if that becomes a problem I probably would just get it powder coated.

I have time to tinker. I'm probably going to end up eventually with a carbon bike but this is fun.

I've always liked Phil Wood hubs but the Campy hubs are adequate.

I get it.

Do you have a set of cranks? I'm assuming you'd go 180 at least.
(and I think campy hubs would be perfect)

I'll start shopping for cranks soon. This is a budget build so I'll probably stick with Shimano 105 at 175mm. The vintage Campy Super Record look nice but are twice the price.

Too bad you aren't short. I've got a campy 165 and 172.5 roadsets.
I've got a 1985 vintage 180 shimano deore mtb crankset, but I think a 110 bcd, so not really a road setup unless you got new rings based on 110. They get expensive in road gearings, and won't shift like newer ultegra.

What's your seat post diameter? I might have some shimano 600 and campy post sitting around in various drawers.

Watch out for chickens! :eek:

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I'm looking at a set of Weinman rims on ebay, never used, still in a bag with the decals

27 x 1.25 19mm wide

I don't see a steel insert where the spoke seats so I'm wondering if these are more of a heavy touring rim

thats a problem with group rides, either on bikes or motorcycles

When I was in the Navy around 89 we had a masterchief who was a exercise nut; running at lunch and riding on the weekends. A "tri guy". He was a genuine good guy and had enough clout to pull this off. He got the command to authorize a ship crew ride for Navy Relief from Half Moon Bay back to the ship at Sub Base Point Loma San Diego.

We were in a group one day and I was in the middle somewhere when my front tube bursts with a loud POP. The guy right in front of me hears the tire blow and gets on the brakes without looking. I can barely keep the bike up with a flat front tire and I can't slow down very well and this guy throws on the brakes. I scream "DON'T STOP".

Which they did. They all kept going and left me behind to fix my flat by myself. At least I didn't crash, wtf... you need to be in the Navy to understand these guys.

Usually everybody stands around and watches, making pithy observations and critiquing my flat fixing style points. (But, I don't remember ever being left alone! That's cold!)

Don't come on our ride. Get dropped, go back by yourself. :D Ride more so you can keep up next time. Flats? Fix it on the side and better luck next time. Been there and done that on both sides. :eek:

See the holes on top of the rear drop outs? Those are the eyelids for the racks that hold up the panniers. Road racing frames do not have that, unnecessary, save weight.

Take a string and pull it from one side of the dropout to the head tube. Measure the distance from the string to the seat tube on both side. If that dimension is the same, then the rear triangle should be straight or at least close enough that can be cold set back straight. Drop out always get out of wack so a special tool is needed to realign them. It can be make with a big nut and some threaded rod to pull then back. The hanger is almost always bent. That must be pull with a straight wheel in place and a special tool.

Guys that are brake happy or don't know how to ride in a pack will always be told to stay home or ride by themselves. They cause a crash then someone's hard working season is ruined.

I saw that yesterday. Crazy. That poor chicken.

Diabolical! I need to harden the eff up!

Definitely glad I subscribed. YES I DID READ ABOUT THE HUBS! LOL!!!

That's right Bud. I always knew you had it in you. :p

I've ridden with Chris (Miller) & his band of cohorts (they laughed at my vintage steel frame bike.). ;)

Meanwhile I'm currently sourcing this for a new build. :cool:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1679541720.jpg

My Cannondale has the same holes. It was an entry level road bike back when I bought it but I don't think the frame was any different from their top bike at the time.

Andy Gilmour is a local, Tucson, legend/guru/greybeard type so if I ride the tour in November on one of this bikes I'm sure people will notice.

OTOH, my sister's race bike from the same era does not have the holes.

A single ring up front. You are just too cool. For a road bike or gravel? Don't tell me track.

If your Cannondale a R900? The CADD alum frames from those years were wicked stiff. The earlier ones has a funky rear drop out pushing the frame shorter by about 1 cm making them super quick. I am not sure about the R series bikes, but my CADD3s had a slightly higher BB for pedaling around corners in the US style around the block crits. My first one was destroyed from a crash. Bought another for 380 bucks from the club. They were cheap throw away bikes for racing unlike a Ti or carbon frame that were in the 1-2000 range which was really popular then.

If I remember correctly, depending on the year, many of them came with a Slice fork which was mfg. by Time.