My Cannondale is from the first gen aluminum bikes that came out in the early 80s. It was before the bikes with the shorter rear triangles and that extended finger of a dropout. Its still a good bike for a local riding but not racing or doing the "shoot out"

I have a mountain bike stem on it right now. It looks ugly but is rideable.

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The Shoot out looks like a fun ride. I think that Cannondale will do fine at the Shoot Out. Why do you think it isn't good enough for it? You can race with it, just make sure it shifts well and have the pistons to keep it going. I am not going to lie, older bikes are a tiny bit lazier coming out of the corners compare to modern full on race bikes but that's isn't a huge factor. If wheel sucking takes place before the corner, any disadvantage become goes out the window. As a matter of fact, sucking wheel going in and out of just one corners will hugely benefit the rider behind 10 folds compare to having a modern bike vs old. 10 pedal strokes can be saved and that is huge in a mile course with four corners over a 60 mile race. If it fits you well enough, go ride it. Who care what it looks like.

Gravel, inspired by this. ;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1679547293.jpg

A friend in college used to do that ride. He rode professionally on the Saturn and Plymouth team

https://www.cardcow.com/images/set325/card00073_fr.jpg

he's in this pic. His team gave him a new bike every season. He could ride my Cannondale on the shootout when we were in college. I'm more of a loner, weekend warrior, joy rider.

The Tucson loop will be my milk run. Its closed at dark so I'll have to get another rout and lights for the summer. Its way too hot to ride in the day in the summer here.

I'm going to borrow the wheels from my sister's old race bike until I can get my own. I need 27x1.25 or maybe 27x1. 700c may work if I get brakes with longer arms

I remember them, mainly rode domestic races and was a powerhouse stateside. I think in the later years, they rode LeMond bikes.

Antonio Cruz rode for them before he hit the big time. He was from LA and has shown up at some of the local rides where he would rip the legs off the groups.

A bit confused here.... are these for the Cannondale or the new frame?

If for the new one then I'd suggest a 700c wheel wheel that is as wide as can fit... so you can use a 28mm tire. The benefits of the wider tire and going tubeless (if you want to) are significant and will make your cycling life more comfortable and enjoyable (and so faster).

Having a steel frame with slightly wider tires will make your rides more fun... and if you are honest with yourself perhaps there is a greater bias towards fun and enjoyment than racing as fast as you can against younger people....

Lovely looking frame tho.. I'd agree it's more touring biased with the rack eyelets on the back. Still the geometry may well be more aggressive than a modern touring frame.

I put the 700c wheels from my Cannondale on the Gilmore frame. I would have to find a set of brakes that has another quarter inch reach.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1679577902.jpg

I see....long reach (drop) caliber brakes are what you need...Also check the wheel is fully seated in the drop out, I have remounted the wheel a little "out" and had brake rubbing issues until I looked again at how I had seated the wheel.

https://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/a20008036/an-ode-to-long-reach-brakes/

Pretty easy and inexpensive. They will also work a bit better than older brakes....

Possibly something like this:
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/105-5800/BR-R650.html

700c wheels and tires are also referred to as 27.5 inchers... so they should be bigger than the 27 inchers you mention.

Short drop Shimano Golden Arrow (1984) on Raleigh Road Ace frame (1986) with Mavic M40 rims (700C) and 23mm tires.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1679583267.jpg

Long drop/ reach Shimano Ultegra (2014) on 2014 carbon frame. Also runs 700C rims but 28mm tire.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1679583267.jpg

Here is the 27" wheel from my sister's bike. You can see its a little bigger diameter.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1679585910.jpg

I need wheels. Maybe in the long run it would be better to get the more common 700c but I want a softer ride anyway so it seems the 27 x 1.25 tire will do that.

Yup… can see that the rim is in the right place with that wheel. Interesting, thanks.

The 700c wheel and tire choice may well be larger than in 27s.

A 32mm (1.25 inches) will provide a couch like ride… at say 50/55psi if you’re tubeless. Be very nice. An internal rim width of 19mm would be desirable for that sort of tire width. Check with the tire manufacturer as to what they recommend. I use a 19mm internal width for 30mm road slicks and 35mm gravel tires.

Aired up the tires today. It's almost time..
We had snow again this morning.

It ain't gonna to fit. Wider tire may not fit in the cannondale. it will rub on the brake bridge and the seat stay bridge. Rubbing under the crown may occur too. If you can get 28mm then you are golden. Just don't pay too much attention on the sidewall's PSI printing. Give it 85 lbs then you should be good. Especially the gilmore frame having eyelids may have more clearance for touring tires. If you can swing for tubless wheels, do it. Nothing else on the bike matters all that much (but the saddle) but the greatest benefit is no flats and the ride quality. I am 165-170 lbs but I only run 60-65 lbs on 28mm tires. Its like sitting on my sofa.

No need for long reach calipers. Just get a drop brake bolt. Cheap.

I jsut looked. They are 40 bucks for a drop bolt.:eek: found this on Ali express https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832443308613.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.KDv84Y &gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=U S

Not sure if you can wait that long? My suggestion is to just buy new wheels and be done with it. Those bolts use to be 5 bucks when I worked in the bike shop.

Someday I'll get a chance to ride a high end kit until then it's my trusty Raleigh Cadent 3.

I ordered the wrong mountain bike quill stem. Its for 1 1/8" forks and I have 1"

Only a $30 boo-boo. I ordered another one today for $11. This is for the Cannondale. This bike will be a wall hanger after I get the Gilmour bike on the road but it may come in handy if my nephew wants to go for a spin someday.

The Gilmour needs both wheels and brakes so I could get 700c and get brakes and the drop bolt or I can get 27" wheels and use the normal brakes.

That's steep for such a simple bit of kit! Ouch.

Agree with new wheels... more choice in both rims and tires...and a pair of silver Shimano 105 modern brakes with a slightly longer drop will provide much better braking than older ones, even with modern pads and still look the part.

If you go that route then selecting the wheels is another rabbit hole to vanish down.....

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/fulcrum-racing-6-c17-road-wheelset/rp-prod175099?gs=1&sku=sku664661&utm_source=google&ut m_medium=organic&utm_campaign=organic-shopping

CAn't beat this for the money. Drop bolts, brake pads and all cost money and time unless you want to tinker which sounds like you do, or get the below. Tubeless for the comfort and all other benefits. https://cambriabike.com/collections/wheels/products/shimano-rs500-700c-road-wheelset.

or

https://www.performancebike.com/ritchey-zeta-comp-wheelset-black-shimano-sram-qr-x-100-qr-x-130mm-700c-622-iso-51335337002/p1354275?v=1001537

If I were doing what you are trying to accomplish, the tubeless wheels would be my choice.

Having tubeless ready wheels is a logical choice… gives you all the options.

The shimano hubs have traditional cup and cone bearings which are possibly not as durable as sealed cartridge units in the other wheelsets. I had a previous version of these wheels, fast and smooth however the brake track was very soft and wore out very quickly, less than 10k kms which put me off replacing them like for like.

I found that wheels around the £300-400 range are significantly better than the less expensive ones in terms of hub bearing quality and build quality when delivered. You budget may not cover this range tho.

A company that I have had good experience with is Hunt wheels. i have three sets of their wheels in use, one alloy, two carbon one of which is a 48mm aero set, the other a 650b set. All told ridden some 30k kms on them in the last two years with no wheel problems.. stayed true and tight etc.

https://www.huntbikewheels.com/products/hunt-race-aero-superdura-road-wheelset-1595g-31deep-24wide

If I needed to replace my rim brakes wheels these are the ones I’d go for…

Not sure what rep Hunt have in the US tho.. here in the UK they are one of the better wheel cos… mainly because they have a good base here and reply very quickly and well to any issue that arise… and I have needed to talk to them re new adaptors for different bikes and maintenance tips, they have been very good.

FWIW, brake pad turned 180° /and maybe left to right. Not important on one piece pads, VERY important with holders/slide in pads.

I'm looking for a fork now. There are lots of forks on ebay but I havn't found one that is a perfect fit yet.

I'm tempted to buy one with a long enough steering tube but its for a 700c rim. I have a mill and it would be easy to machine away the 1/8" of material at the bottom of the crown to allow a 27" wheel to clear.

I washed my Cannondale last night. I don't remember the last time I cleaned it. The caked on grime on the hubs needed extra attention to get off. A tooth brush and simple green was the trick. I took apart the headset and repacked the grease. The bearings and races looked perfect. The Cannondale came with Shimano 105. The old grease was chunky but still lubricated. This was the first time I had the headset apart. Shimano makes good stuff.

Issues with milling the dropout will limit yourself to smaller tires, like a 23 unless you know there's lots of room there. May I ask why are you so caught up on 27" wheels? That's old tech and has been obsolete for a long, long time. 700c wheels opens up to lots of options in terms of tires and wheels.

I changed my mind this afternoon and ordered a set of mavic open elite rims. I'll use the drop bolt like you suggested. There is a bigger selection of tires and I can upgrade to an aero rim in the future if I want. I'll build the rims on the Campy hubs I have. Now I don't have to fool with the fork I ordered. It was made to fit a 700c wheel. All I have to do is paint it. I may have to trim the steering tube a little bit. I can do that on the mill.

Save yourself a lot of headache so you can concentrate on the training for the 100 mile ride. Aerorims are amazingly fast but that's the drawback from lack of speed. They are a deficit due to weight only because there's a bit more mass but if you go ultra light carbon wheels, weight is cut down a bit. If your plan is to go out and do this 100 mile ride within reasonable amount of time, then carbon deep dish wheel maybe a consideration if not, those Mavic rims laced to the Campy hubs will more then enough to enjoy that ride. They are light and their box shape is durable.

So I started cleaning the Cannondale yesterday. I have to wait another week for the new stem to arrive. Yesterday I repacked the headset and today I did the same for the Cannondale's front wheel. One of the cones had some pitting so those wheels should be retired. I put the axel back in with the knowledge that there is an issue with that front wheel.

I decided to repack the Campy hubs on those BMX wheels I have. Upon inspection I saw some pitting and roughness on the small end of the cone. The races in the hub looked OK. I cleaned up the old grease and repacked with fresh and placed 10 balls in one side and put the cone in without the axel to see how it rotated and it felt wrong. I suspect someone a long time ago replaced the balls with a larger diameter. I put the axel together and it felt terrible, like there is sand in the bearings.

dum dee dumm....another mystery. I'm glad I caught this now before I laced up the new rims that are coming in next week.

I have two other front wheels to compare ball bearings with. I have the Shimano 105 on my Cannondale and I have the Campagnolo Record on my sister's race bike. I'll make a prediction right now that the balls on the BMX wheels are .020 larger than what they should be.

IIRC The older hubs Campy used different size bearings front and rear... not sure what model you have so be worth checking. Did they get mixed up at some point?

The Mavic rims come in both traditional and modern UST (tubeless ready) models. Both look the part, the profile of the UST one supports tubeless if desired the traditional doesn't.

That may be the problem. The rear BMX wheel feels fine. I didn't get to repacking it. There are some decals on the wheels "BARTS" like maybe Barts Bicycle Shop, or maybe the kid who raced back in the 80s was named Bart.

I can see someone using the same bearings front and rear and not noticing the different bearing size between front and rear.

sourcing the correct size and quality bearings will difficult locally. Quality is the key to those bearings for that hub. The typical bearings sold in the local bike shops are not polished well at all.

If you can use those Campy hubs, you are golden. They are good hubs. Oil holes in the center of the hub? If not, any modern Shimano (Ultegra) hubs will close to being as good as those old Campys, that's only IMO. It takes a lot to kill them. I have tried to kill off a set of Dura-Ace wheels I built for over 7-8 years. Over hauled the a couple times. Gone through some broken spokes and a set of rims over those years. I think I still have them. Bought factory build wheels after that and never looked back. I bought Mavic wheels usually.

Most times, the guys working in bike shops don't care to get the correct size bearings sadly. If they look close enough, it goes right in during a hub rebuilt.

32 or 36 hold hubs? What are your plans? 3 cross, 4 cross for durability or you will go fancy and go 3 cross on drive side and 2 cross on none drive side? Front?

:cool:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1679733238.jpg

(From Darrell Llewellyn McCulloch... Llewellyn Custom Bicycles Home)

These guys would be my go-to for new steel bearings…
https://wheelsmfg.com/ball-532-25.html

Have a BB from them which is very good… easy to service and durable. Better than the equivalent Shimano one: albeit more expensive.

They do answer tech questions so perhaps worth a chat.

Trackie trick.;)

plan on going three cross on all

I want the wheels to be strong and it should simplify what spokes I need

36 holes (....I better count the holes on the campy hub, I ordered 36 on the rims)

I've used McMaster-Carr at work a lot

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/bearings/hard-wear-resistant-52100-alloy-steel-balls-7/

Campagnolo and Shimano don't manufacture the balls, they source them from another vendor.

I can't wait to see this bike build.

3x is the typical bullet proof spoke wheel. Light but strong. It will be fun

I tried 5/32 balls---too small. 3/16 is too big. I'm going to order 11/64 and 4.5 mm from McMaster Carr and see if one of those sizes works.

I'm really tempted to have Gilmour do the paint, maybe in a champaign white or pearl white. Just give him the frame and fork and write a check. I think the wheels I ordered are anodized black so that would give a good contrast.

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1679803633.jpg

March is almost done and I still don't have a bike to even train on. The new stem should be here next week so at least I can start riding the Cannondale.