Since you are going to spend the money to paint the frame, I suggest have them move the brake bridge lower so it works with 700c wheels, align the frame, face the bottom bracket and head set. Remove the eyelids. Are you ever going touring in this? I know you are attached to the frame but I think its still a touring, sports frame. You may find the frame to be lazy coming out of corners once you get into shape. I am not sure i all this is important to you? I have had body shops paint frames before with great result and the cost is about 300 bucks with me doing the prep and stickers

I was never into racing or competitions. There was a book I read a few years ago. The author divided people into "herders" and "farmers". I'm more of a farmer. I used to go on rides with friends as a kid. A bicycle gave us freedom to explore.

The book is called Outliers

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Outliers_(book)

Its an interesting read.

I'm still thinking about building a carbon frame. Essentially it would go together like the PVC plumbing under your sink. I would make molds to make the parts and everything would be glued together with JB Weld. Conceptually simple but more difficult in execution. I have two friends in LA who are senior stress analysis at one of the companies I worked for. I'll have to go talk to them. Unfortunately most of their experience is in inconel. One of them has a favorite saying "if you want it quick, make it thick". I think he was talking about the time to do an analysis.

If I get a chance to talk to Gilmour I'll ask if this is a touring, race or general purpose frame.

Let us know how you get on with those bearings... 11/64 is rare.

White is great on steel frames.

No need to be racing to get a race bike. Touring bikes are a bit longer and more stable for all day comfort in the saddle but when it comes to cornering or carving down a mountain side, its a bit slower and less responsive like driving a 911 vs a Camry. Both will get you there but the question is, how much fun. i think there are bike made in between called sports touring bikes. The carbon frame build sounds like fun. Keep us in the loop

I bought 5/32 balls from a bike shop. They make the axel spin smoothly but the cones are too far into the hub. I can't get a spanner on the flats to adjust them. Maybe it will work if I take the dust covers off for the adjustment.

Get at the cones from the other side and pull the axle.

Anyone have two Campagnolo cones sitting around in their tool box?

8x20

These cones are my problem with the hub. Someone put non campy parts in a long time ago. I can't find them on ebay or anywhere else so they seem to become unobtanium.

If this is really a problem there are plenty of old Shimano hubs on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/364189972566?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110 006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D24741 4%26meid%3D623f18fd6a4f4f5c91663c1c8db54349%26pid% 3D101195%26rk%3D11%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D291444881656% 26itm%3D364189972566%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D20 47675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLamb da85KnnRecallV1V4V6ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualR ankerAndBertRecallCPCBlended%26brand%3DCampagnolo& _trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A3641 89972566623f18fd6a4f4f5c91663c1c8db54349%7Cenc%3AA QAHAAABUMzHrtmBs5dQ%252FHIG5%252BRfYnxi7NXGqhNmkIy nG8%252FJUFU8mFH0LR4rYiCzTE7ooZG50CTrFa800zEyCYXza Lce6aP2sNHYQFVEwDm5p%252FLuk%252FSeZYJ4KDvPkFH59OJ f3XeGeYKecqqQTdGEPj5LqiOXakWNONKN1gaTE56DMZkT0s6Pq 171xxBtYskWL0l909oSU0p4hwCfJqwlVWFxxGu9HX579Y4WC6T CZ5Wc9xqz4fSmp%252F7ZPXFsYrff4rPmaFCF2A3F4Rlv4TUZq QY7clkf8l7Ue6DSr6Z0LwaY%252BwRqtxtKRhmMLQ2Iv7Ecjph hsXcfqU0RQNKrrDi2wYV8KW4ZUp1ISVKzEzTnCCaC3OnStSZR1 WbG%252FRCcAgzftuFegKFhx39uF%252FFlihe3juHrcozVGNe 8uptwWVZKLPRi6xYjxoOCykylzm%252FE85AnMAq1JHGFbQ%25 3D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675

Will this do? I am not sure what those campy hubs are. If they are record or super record, then parts will be easier to find but if those were some rare bmx or off road parts, then you are in for a deep dig. I haven't not taken apart an old Campy road hub for a loooong time. Peter will know or he may even have a large parts bin. he knows these bikes and parts well.

Hey its Campy, small parts should be available through your local bike shop.

that hub or your, freewheel or cassette?

front hub

I'm going to go to the oldest bike shop in town and see if they have anyone who knows vintage bikes

I took apart my sisters race bike's front wheel, pulled the axle out and it worked perfectly in the hub I want to use. Her hub is a Record and mine doesn't say anything but the Camp winged wheel.

The cone on her hub is stamped 8x20 aka 8mm axle and I guess 20mm width

I've seen Shimano 105 hubs for $30 so I could just have a Shimano in front and a Campy in the back

Thats coming from Italy and its rear.

Forks coming this week, maybe tomorrow and so are the rims

Oh, ok. There's some Campy small parts catalogue floating around on the net you can order from. That hub must be one of the rare ones made for a specific wheel. I can't see it too well from that pic.

What kind of spokes will you be using? I really like DT's double butted or aero spokes n those old wheels.

I'll probably just use double butted spokes. I need to use a spoke calculator to figure out what spoke lengths I need.

This is my idea of recycling

one pair of perfectly serviceable Campagnolo hubs ready to be laced up in a new set of wheels

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680146500.jpg

I found cones on ebay and I wasn't sure they would work and it looks like they will serve. They're a little too long so I will have to chuck them in a lathe and cut maybe .080" off each to get the 100 mm fork spacing

they cleaned up nicely with a SOS pad, maybe I'll get a polish wheel and go a little more but they look ok as they are now

Pete, you think those hubs are Campy Grand Sport because there's no oil holes center of hub?

You are going old fashion, period correct. I think 7 spd maybe the largest freewheel? How's do they spin?

they spin OK, but I may use a little bit of valve grinding compound and make them better. Or just start riding on them and see if they break in after a couple hundred miles

I think the hubs are Nuovo Tipo. Probably the lowest level hubs they sold then.

I need to find a spoke calculator and get the spokes ordered.

A friend clued me into the Sheldon Brown website

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/

The internet make it easy now. have a look at these

https://www.prowheelbuilder.com/spokelengthcalculator

https://spokecalc.io/

You have to do a bit of digging, some web page, a hub make, type and rim can be entered and it spits out all the info needed.

Love me some Campy

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680186536.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680186536.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680186536.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680186536.jpg

The rims came today and look lovely.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680224677.jpg

And I found another hiccup on those cones. They are too wide as is and I need to remove .080 on each. I can do this on the lathe but I need an arbor. Maybe I can use the three jaw but there isn't a lot of meat to grab on so I started looking for something to make an arbor. The thread is M9x1.0 and that is the snag.

9mm thread is rare. I couldn't find anything at the usual hardware stores. Then I went to the speciality fastener store and they had nothing. I was resigned to order it from McMaster Carr and wait a couple days but MC had nothing either. Nothing showed up on Amazon. McMaster Carr did have a M9x1.0 die for $48. So maybe I can chuck up a chunk of rebar in the lathe and cut it down and run the die to get the threads and have an arbor.

wtf,,, why is everything so difficult?

My brother told me the only thing he has in M9 is in the engine of his dune buggy (rod bolts). This made me go down another path. I have old rod and flywheel bolts for my BMW motorcycles and checked those but they were too big. Then I went back on Ebay and found 9mm rod bolts for VW type 1 engines for under $10 and a lot of other 9mm rod bolts for old Kawasakis and Polaris (snow mobiles?)

so... maybe get a VW rod bolt to make an arbor but then I remembered we have a surface grinder in our family machine shop. Doesn't everyone have a surface grinder in the corner that they use once every decade?

I have options: make an arbor with a VW rod bolt and use the lathe or use the surface grinder.

An easier way would be to buy a set of Shimano 105 hubs ($90) on Ebay and keep the Campy hubs as paperweights but this is becoming a issue of pride now. I'm not going to let these Campy hubs beat me.

You made it difficult by using those Campy hubs. They must be rare or one-offs. Campy parts are still pretty easy to get, a shop must be willing to order them for you. Most people don't want to order a 12 dollar part only to discovered its wrong and get stuck with it not to mention the time it takes to make sure its the correct cone for your hub. Call some of your local shop that have connection with Euroasia imports (La Crescenta CA). They have that stuff hanging around. If you are heart set on Campy, there are used hubs out there for a couple hundred bucks. You next issue will be the freewheel. The gearing is limited and the rear derailleur form that era has a max cog size limited. A Campy super Record is limited at 27 tooth, if I remember correctly. What rear derailleur is going on it? Remember those cheap Chinese freewheels sucks. I would hate to see it go out on you on a hill climb. My favorite are the Suntour freewheel. Their Ultra 6,7 speed is bomb proof from that era. I couldn't break them and they last and last. The Regina Oro is a damn good freewheel but all those old stuff are pretty much worn and it is a PITA to overhaul them. What ever you do, don't get period correct and end up with a Regina America. I broke two of them within one season training and racing on them. I know Regina was the gold standard of the time.

If I am doing this, a typical Ultegra or Dura Ace hub will be in my hand because I know they are good and parts are available within 15-20 min drive from my house or a few clicks on the net. I really like seal bearing hubs from the mid 90s-2000. Its easy to replace just the bearings at the local bearing house. Simple and they last a long time. I had some American Classic hubs I beat to death and they just refuse to die. Look into those. Dare I say, some of the Chinese hubs are OK for general sport riding. I am unsure about racing and their smoothness but there's nothing to a hub but the bearing.

I made it difficult by doing a retro/vintage build. Any choice I make will have problems. If I bought a new bike there would be a large chunk of money that wouldn't be available for some other need.

I started a CAD model of a garage build carbon bike a few days ago. Right now I'm just copying the geometry of the largest frame I could find online. This project is an bottomless pit of problems. I have to think about the structural strength of the interface of the aluminum drop outs (I'll make them myself) and the carbon frame.

I got the Cannondale back together today. New taller stem, handle bar tape on, new front brake cable on. I can start putting miles on the clock.

But not this weekend. I'm leaving to San Diego tomorrow to visit some friends. Will be back at it Monday and maybe Tuesday I can start riding a little.

How many miles did you ride this week? :D

Talk about a rabbit hole you went down into ... deep ... and it has a ton of little branches with more holes!

I would still advocate to buy a $800 modern bike. Ride it and sell it when your project comes to fruition. The older I get the more I am going for instant gratification. At our ages, we never know if we can even still ride next year.

I found this gem on YouTube. Pretty cool test. The guy cracked me up too.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4C6vuSvVkN4" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>

think I saw that vid...

in November I'll ride the best bike I have and that may be the Cannondale

I used the spoke calculator and I need 292.7 mm spokes for the front wheel.

I don't mean to be offensive if I comes across that way.

You are looking for some rare parts hoping to fit into a very rare hub (assuming?) but I am started to hear your frustration. The standards back then were weird. How does a frame mfg to have SAE pedal spindle threads and the rest of the bike is metric? Try French thread. Your problem is solved with a set of newer hubs and believe me, the newer mid level / lower Japanese made hubs are damn good products and lighter too. Oh, but they don't polish as nicely as Campy and that's important to some.

Calculating spoke length will be another challenge even though the measurements are on the net. Getting the correct spoke length will be another azz kicker because of unusual spoke length? The remedy to that issue is to cut and re-thread each and every spoke. Some people like the challenge. I restored a steel Colnago Master Light (yellow one just like George's) for my kid using Dura-ace 9 speed. Its period correct that's only because I have enough carp hanging around from 30 years of doing this siht. We finished it, put bar tape on and he took it out around the canyon once. That's it. Every time we go out, I ask if he would take the old bike. The answer is NO and he's already sitting on his Carbon Trek outside of the garage. Its that much nicer and faster.

Hope you get this dialed in soon and get some riding in.

That video is sorta what I'm doing except they used a new frame and unused vintage components and I'm using an old frame with half new and half used parts.

I was in a local bike shop and I saw some prices that made me gag. $325 for a seat, $40 for handle bar tape.

GEorge, did I ever mentioned to you that I really like PDK (say this quietly with one hand covering my mouth). I have a bike, full Campy super Record, with friction shifting hanging in my garage. Its the very bike I raced on starting when I was about 17 for the next 10 years after that. it ain't gettin' modern parts on it but a sunday rider to the coffee only that I never ride to the coffee houses. I drive instead in my PDk tranny Cayman.:D I have a lot of respect for those old steel bikes, but I know their adv and disadvantages. I have ridden my old bikes on our fast group rides and I discovered that my placing near the finish is about the same. I know its slower on both the flats and the climbs especially. But on a ride like that, I know how to suck wheels for just a tiny bit longer to make up the deficit.

You been riding much? Hope everything is well with you up there with all the rain.

Jeff

Yeah, you want a set of brand new MKS track pedals? I bought them for 39 bucks. The plan was to put them on my road bike and pedal around the corners during crits. Sell them to you for 300 bucks:D Crazy how everything has gone through the roof. People had been asking me about selling my Super Record group and offer me stupid money for it. No way.

I have my sister's race bike from the mid 70s to play with. I was riding it down the street. Its too small for me but its not an unpleasant ride. But I was thinking if I had a new modern bike, still in her size, and rode it I would feel the same as your son. Leave that old stuff hanging on the wall.

That spoke calculator seems to work. I did a reality check with my tape measure on my Cannondale front wheel. The Cannondale has low flange Shimano 105 and they are almost a clone of the Campy hub I have. The Wolber rims on the Cannondale are not as tall as the Mavics I got in the mail today. I calculated 293 for the Mavic/Campy and I measured 302 for the Wolber/Shimano.

very close, but I'll do the measurement again before I place an order and maybe I'll try one of the other calculators and the meathods on Sheldon Brown's page.

PDK? Bah - it is WORSE, Jeff. I bought a TESLA! :eek: No worries, only for my wife to commute, and I'll take it too, since I get free electrons at work.

Not much riding in this weather since I do mostly MTB and if it doesn't rain the trails are all still jacked. But I am running and hitting the gym ok.

Muhahahahaha. That's funny.

I have only ridden in a Tesla one time. That damn thing is nice but I don't know what model. It sure was fast. the tires chirp at 50 mph at full throttle. You know, I am disappointed in you for buying American. You shoulda bought a Porshee e whatever that thing is called. :D

Resurrecting a Cannondale. You're on the right path Otto. :)

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/q5u38hHXO68" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>

400 lbs is a deal of century for that thing. The brake calipers are worth 100 US.

Advertised locally on Facebook Market Place... Klein Quantum (US Made frame).

- Asking A$1,700! I'm tempted ;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680332617.jpg

Following this with interest, though after numerous life changing surgeries including an aortic valve replacement and 73 years on the clock I no longer ride. In 74 my wife and I quit our jobs, packed up our bikes, her Cinelli Super Corsa and my Raleigh Pro and pedaled from Chicago to Monterey Bay via Denver, Phoenix, Las Vegas and LA. My bike weighed in @ 94lbs and hers @ 68lbs. We were told by the experts at the bike shops the short stiff angles of our frames would not survive the extra weight and we should fly to California and ride back as the prevailing winds are west to east. Said I don’t want to pedal all that way and end up in Chicago.
I recall an incident with Oscar Wastyn when I was pursuing the last ounce/gram of weight saving, looking for a pair of super legarra pedals. He had a pair and refused to sell them to me telling there’s nothing wrong with my Record pedals. Then proceeded to tell me that the rider is 90% of the event, even if you change the bike by 50% you haven’t changed much. As he put it about like taking a good dump before you ride.

Rich

His grandfather started the Paramount line

Rich, How about a low powered E Bike?

4 shoulder surgeries, prostectomy, hernia, beginning to feel like the snake oil salesman from ‘Little Big Man’.
The Raleigh and my Paramount track bike are still here mocking me.
When I get the urge to 2 wheel I fire up my 919 or the 1989 650 Hawk and tool around the 2 lane black tops for a bit.

Rich

First time on a ride, not including the few times I used it to take my Suburban to the shop, in 25 years.

I feel good.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1680726701.jpg

Took some getting used to riding in cleats. I had to make a special effort not to fall over at my first red light.

I did ten miles and I wasn't going very fast.

The forks came this weekend. I ordered spokes Monday so I can start building the wheels this week.

I need new gloves and a couple more jerseys. I'm tempted to get some BMX pedals and ride in my Vans.

Peter, did you buy the Quantam?

I called the guy and arranged a time to see it but it was sold before I got there. :rolleyes:

Klein's a rare in Aus.