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Banned
Join Date: Aug 2022
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For a stubborn unit bearing like that, soaking with penetrant overnight is a good start. Another trick is to use a puller with some heat on the bearing housing, sometimes a few cycles of heat, then pressure, can break the rust loose. If you haven’t already, try tapping around the outer edge of the bearing with a rubber mallet to loosen it up a bit more before pulling again.
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Is it possible for a bot to 'double post'?
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78 SC Targa Black....gone 84 Carrera Targa White 98 Honda Prelude 22 Honda Civic SI |
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Air Medal or two
Join Date: Jul 2003
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stevej37 _ bot?
Stre - I have beaten this thing into some sort of abuse. Used a real torch and all the usual stuff to get pressed parts apart. I will win cause once an object moves, I think it will continue in this scenario. ..I hope Aluminum next to steel is never a good idea as it creates all sorts of corrosion, and the salt helps a lot!~
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162 Assault Helicopter Co,(Vultures ) D troop 3/5 Air Cav. ( Bastard CAV) South of Saigon, U Minh Forest, Delta, and most parts in between. |
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Yep, when ya install the new one, put some anti sieze in the bore of the hub assembly to make it easier on the next guy.
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absolutely!!
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162 Assault Helicopter Co,(Vultures ) D troop 3/5 Air Cav. ( Bastard CAV) South of Saigon, U Minh Forest, Delta, and most parts in between. |
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So, the problem with replacing the entire upright here in the rust belt, is that you are only shifting your problems somewhere else . You will find the through bolts frozen into the bushings and control arms etc, and down the rabbit hole you go .
Ive only been defeated by maybe two or 3 wheel bearings in my life, to where I had to replace the upright or spindle . I broke my press , and then threw out my back pounding on one of the first rear Subaru wheel bearings I ever did . They finally came out with a special tool for them . But.... It was $800 bucks, and they still do not come out easily . Still involves a torch, air hammer , and lots of caution . Glad you got it to move. They always give up the ghost eventually !
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No left turn un stoned |
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![]() This is twisting the nuts up against the wheel plate , it is working so far. Norice the washer is between the wheel mount and the nut for a bearing surface. The back of the bolt, inboard side, is against the bearing mount parameters, outside the radius of the bearing , so it can come fwd Last edited by afterburn 549; 04-16-2025 at 08:49 AM.. |
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Just did this on my 2018 outback.
The “bolt a big extension on the hub and beat on it” approach is similar to what I did. I bought a jig that bolts to the hub and then pushed the hub and inner race out. Then I went to OReilly and rented a master bearing press to push out the 4 bolt flange unit from the inboard side. Wisconsin car and doesn’t look all that bad - but something about the fit that Subaru chose for this flange bearing is horrible. Destroyed the brake shield and the abs sensor in the process. The. I did the other side - and it didn’t fight me much at all. I think it’s best if you can press evenly all around the diameter. Not easy to get somewhere to press against - and therefore they get cocked too. Not the most fun - but my word, The hum was getting insufferable. |
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Just did this on my 2018 outback.
The “bolt a big extension on the hub and beat on it” approach is similar to what I did. I bought a jig that bolts to the hub and then pushed the hub and inner race out. Then I went to OReilly and rented a master bearing press to push out the 4 bolt flange unit from the inboard side. Wisconsin car and doesn’t look all that bad - but something about the fit that Subaru chose for this flange bearing is horrible. Destroyed the brake shield and the abs sensor in the process. The. I did the other side - and it didn’t fight me much at all. I think it’s best if you can press evenly all around the diameter. Not easy to get somewhere to press against - and therefore they get cocked too. Not the most fun - but my word, The hum was getting insufferable. |
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Quote:
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Data Farmer
Join Date: May 2011
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I had the opportunity to do this last weekend.
![]() If I did it again, I'd force myself to take an extra couple of minutes and remove the brake dust cover, any abs sensor, get the brake caliper/ brake lines supported free and clear and start smackin'! They need to be safe from the free flying hammer and cursing that's about to ensue. I'd also get at it with a sharp air chisel aimed between the bearing and the housing, going at each of the 4 mounting bolt tabs. Rubber mallet my spambot arse!
Last edited by LEAKYSEALS951; 04-16-2025 at 10:04 AM.. |
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Sadly, I will be an expert next time .
Using a fine-threaded shank or bolt on both sides, it pushed out . Maybe cause it sat there all night with a penitrate on it / in it? Or , it was just worried about the relentless beating it was going to get? LOL It is a matter of time, keeping it Sq, and mechanical leverage.
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162 Assault Helicopter Co,(Vultures ) D troop 3/5 Air Cav. ( Bastard CAV) South of Saigon, U Minh Forest, Delta, and most parts in between. |
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Winning!
All cleaned up -was very, very crusty! I think the drama is over....... ![]()
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162 Assault Helicopter Co,(Vultures ) D troop 3/5 Air Cav. ( Bastard CAV) South of Saigon, U Minh Forest, Delta, and most parts in between. Last edited by afterburn 549; 04-16-2025 at 11:05 AM.. |
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Note to my long departed father- Thanks for moving us out west where we don't have to deal with stuff like this.
Thanks for the pictures! Glad to see you were successful.
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Scott '78 SC mit Sportomatic - Sold |
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Good job!!!!
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Nice work ! Ill admit, there are times where I am pounding forever, sometimes it takes me a half day of going back and forth at , and Ill be thinking " this mother jumper is never coming out '
Persistence pays off here. The very moment you see it move, even the tiniest little gap , you've won, and its all dowhill from there . I probably do 3- 5 wheel bearings every week here. Its bread and butter work .
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Thanx guys !
I appreciate the cadre applause. Yes, this is a PIA for sure!!! I used to own a shop years and years ago, B4 it got all so complicated. That's why I quit. TOOooooo complicated for me. But, if I had a customer with this *problem, I would say 3 hours minimum, plus parts and broken bolts, and time is extra. Nothing broke here this time, but in the salt climate, it is possible. Now that I know how it is, 3 house minimum, but I have now gone to the University of Hard Knocks and know how! LOL *Wheel bearing noises in a newer Civic are not like the old days; these are hard to identify as to what and where. So there is that too, time to isolate what and where.
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162 Assault Helicopter Co,(Vultures ) D troop 3/5 Air Cav. ( Bastard CAV) South of Saigon, U Minh Forest, Delta, and most parts in between. |
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oof all those rusty parts on a newish car cause me great stress. I think if I lived in a salted area Id rethink some of the DIY I attempt.
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Thats why I hate giving quotes . That job probably pays 1.5-1.7 hours . Sometimes it pops right out and you are done in an hour. Other times, 2 .5 hours in, and you have pounded on it till you cant make a fist or feel your fingers anymore , and it still has not moved .
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I am old enough that when I hit a wall like this I often decide that I have better things to do with my time and pay someone else to do it.
I am overhauling my main commuter bicycle and the bottom bracket was shot. No problem, I have a replacement and they're not hard to get out. LOL, not this one! Elevated things to my rattle gun (after penetrant, breaker bar with cheater, etc.) and the fixed cup wasn't budging. Gave up and took it to my LBS. It took *them* hours to get it out, requiring making a little bag around the bottom bracket area and submerging the whole area in penetrant overnight, *then* persistence with lots of torque. It was well worth the $100 or whatever I paid them. They're a great shop, I'll pay them for their actual time.
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'80 SC Targa Avondale, Chicago, IL |
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