I want to stick an LS7 in thishttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1313369048.jpg

Mine is actually a 2005 CTSv engine

As far as LS2's LS3's & LS7's go, they're all doable but the earlier motors are the easiest to make work. All LS1's, LS6's and some LS2's will run on F-Body electronics. Things start to get tricky with the newer stuff. And really, what's the point? All I want is 500hp at the crank, and that's easy from an LS6.

The 'newer' LS series LS2, LS3, LS7, LS9, etc have knock sensors in different locations, and they're all throttle-by-wire. So hot rodding the 'older' LS1, or LS6 is a little easier. Of course, you can Frankenstein by mixing an matching components from pickups, GTOs, Camaros, Corvettes, CTS-Vs, etc. You can even build them for front drive or mid-engine transverse using the LS4 (Monte Carlo SS, Impala SS, Grand Prix GXP) ancillaries. Like LEGOS, only faster......

just bumping this thread: How's it going?:)

I nominate Angela as the Queen (or should that be Empress?) of Pelican Parts.

Pretty sweet looking build, same goes for the 911.

Okay I am going to be a decenter, ( I detest Detroit) why not replace the original engine with the 4.4 and 6spd that came in the M5 and make an E36CSL Lightweight? Just courious, and not dissing your build, have fun I love projects like this

Ceap, High HP, High Torque? oh and it will run for a long time. $125 starters,alternators,waterpumps etc.

The Small Block Chevy Motor is the King for lightweight bang for your buck.

Funny I saw one of theses conversions yesterday at the track it was a beast!!!

A little progress worth reporting. Engine compartment is painted. Motor and trans are very close to going in. Over the next few days, weeks? I'll be making one wiring harness from the two. That will be fun. :confused:

http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...403_181040.jpg
http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...414_131635.jpg
http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...414_182609.jpg

COOL!

Very curious about the FAST system. I've seen them advertised and it really looks like a do-able solution for a transplant. Part of me WANTS to believe they are really self-learning, the other part of me has seen too many "turn-key" aftermarket FI systems that require $1,000s of dollars of dyno time to get right. Sometimes to even get driveable.

Fingers crossed that it is as good as advertised. Really looking forward to the day you fire this one up!

angela

That's actually a ported FAST 92mm intake. They're NLA and sell used at a premium. Reason is, they're easier tune on a 5.7 liter engine than the 102's that FAST currently sells. The FAST systems aren't much different that the stock intake except that they are larger and breath better. With the cam and heads I'm using, it's a must have.

Looking promising. I want to ride in it when you get it done. What kind of HP is that motor going to throw down?

Only the dyno will tell for sure, but it should be somewhere around 500 at the crank once tuned right, so 425~rwhp?

My 2001 Camaro put 447 horses to the rear wheels with similar changes (not sure which cam or whose heads, I guess)

Should be a blast in that M3 body!

What have you got for suspension under it? I know our M with 240hp was a ton of fun. Can't imagine with over 400...

I went with the Texas Speed MS3. It's got some fairly large lumps.

Suspension and brakes were all gone through first before the swap started. I went with a nice tight street set up. The bushings are pretty much all urethane. Turner Motorsports Sway bars, Turner adjustable lower rear control arms, Koni SA's with the Ground Control coilover conversion, Treehouse racing front control arm bushings, E30 M3 front control arms & all four wheel bearings are new too. I think I posted these early in the thread but the links got messed up.

http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...g?t=1318624546
http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...514_215558.jpg

Suffered a major set back, back in June. Going out to the garage, I had two choices, start swapping doors on my 98. Newly acquired rust free units:

http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...610_001155.jpg

Or mate up my motor and trans then get them ready to install. I should have ****ed with the doors.

I ran it to some trouble trying to get the trans flush with the engine. Something was binding up. Still don't know what it was. So I decided to remove the bell housing. The bell housing then went on the motor no problem. Next I got the trans in position and now with a little better view was able to get the splines the clutch disc and the input shaft to line up. The trans just did not want to easily mate up to the bell housing though. With only about a 1/4 of an inch to go I just decided to draw the trans in with the bolts. Big ****ing mistake.

Here's my block.

http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...609_221929.jpg
http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...609_235311.jpg

Yes, I screwed up in a big way. But the only way to look is forward.

Tore everything down immediately.

http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...609_235605.jpg
http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...609_235610.jpg
http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...609_235621.jpg
http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...609_235933.jpg


Fast forward to more recent times. I have a newly built LS2 short block to pair up with all my other parts. Got the engine back together. Got the trans and motor together. Didn't crack any blocks this time. And have gotten to the point where the engine is in the car. There are a few fitment issues, but they're minor and should be worked out this weekend. Next up will be wiring and getting everything else connected. Hopefully the extra .3 liters are good for something.

http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...3/IMAG0273.jpg
http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...3/IMAG0274.jpg
http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...3/IMAG0275.jpg

http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...3/IMAG0306.jpg
http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...3/IMAG0305.jpg
http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/a...3/IMAG0304.jpg

what transmission is that?