Really Nice work!!!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat.gifhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif

Thanks for that info. Yep it works well to let things dry/cure then sand, and a few more coats. I've had disasters of multiple coats when it's just flash dried between coats, then one coat is too wet and the rest curdles like paint stripper has been put on it.

The PPG clear I use for odd jobs is a 1K. I've used it on the car but I also use it for situations where I'm making up structural beams and I've sprayed a zinc primer over steel or welds. Then need something to waterproof the zinc primer.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1704479084.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/mhCjkps.png

Don't get too excited...they are all props.

Almost finished building this for NRL22 this year.
Never done this kind of competition before but it should be fun.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1704919178.jpg

Finally got around to grabbing some pics of the LeFevers. This one is the G grade 16 gauge circa 1902. Double ivory sights...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706382350.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706382381.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706382411.jpg

This is the C grade 10 gauge circa 1891....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706382528.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706382555.jpg

And these are my German sporting rifles. A Savage Anschutz 141 22lr circa 1966...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706382687.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706382715.jpg


And a Carl Walther Model B 30-06 circa 1958....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706382794.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706382841.jpg

New cat in the house!

Well, CVA Bobcat (black stock) in .50 to go with its big brother the CVA Lynx in .54

Couldn't turn it down for $90 shipped, though I resisted for 5 or 6 hours hoping someone else would claim it.

Now of course the question becomes "what to do with it".... Well, it needs a few things.

1 - new nipple, the one on it must be for something smaller than even #10 'cause #11s fall off and #10s still have lots of wiggle (compared to my revolver #10 nipples)

2 - maybe new rear sight. Has some weird forward angled (about 45 degrees) buckhorn on the back.

Now I don't need two large caliber BP rifles... but I'm not sure if I want to sell one of 'em off or maybe look into having the bore on one of them drilled out to remove the rifling and make it a smoothie. Problem with doing that is most ML 'smiths won't do CVA percussions due to how the breech plug and drum are installed. And I think relining it to .36 would involve the same breech plug/drum issues.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1706453262.jpg

That rear sight is simply installed backwards. Drift it out and turn it around. It's supposed to be angled rearward to reduce glare.

Damascus steel?

Yes. I've shot modern loads through it with no problems.

I did some research beforehand and got some great advice from Buck Hamlin who had written an article for Double Gun Journal titled "Finding Out For Myself". He passed last year:
https://www.myleaderpaper.com/obituaries/obituary-for-carlton-buck-hamlin-jr-of-pevely/article_35b94412-7cd0-11ee-abcc-ef030363ad35.html

He had taken some old Damascus guns rigged to a tire swing and shot different loads until the barrels were compromised.

He was able to fire off some pretty heavy loads, much larger than commercial loads. I emailed him and he called me and we had a pretty lengthy conversation.

I had asked about smokeless powder and higher pressures being the reason shotgun makers had converted to fluid steel barrels. He told me that Damascus was a 3-man process, 2 hammering and one holding the Mandrel. Modern manufacturing was one reason for the change and also the fact that most barrels came from Belgium and a lot of the tradesman were killed or injured in World War I.

You could still order Damascus barrels on the old guns but there was a premium. Some may still say you shouldn't shoot modern shells through Damascus but I'm glad an old Gunsmith took the time to call a youngster and give him his opinion.

Henry X in 44mag

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1707004350.jpg

Problem mostly resolved. Got an incredible offer from a friend of a friend and so I sold the 2 CVAs and now have two TCs - a 50 caliber White Mountain Carbine and a New Englander that was relined in 45 by Bob Hoyt

Both rifles are essentially new. Do need to pick up ramrods for them (have a big heavy solid brass one for range use) and projectiles. Might try the WMC with a 490 ball but also considering going a tad modern with a sabot and either 451 or 429 caliber pistol bullets

The 45 is fast twist 1-20, very fast for a ML) and the bore is more likely to be 447 or 448 than 450 so Im planni g on checking how well sabots fit there or just use full bore hunks of lead and set up a bullet sizing die

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1709179239.jpg

Python Combat Elite
 

About to go up for auction: Al Capone's 1911 he named "Sweetheart"
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1714443973.jpg

https://www.cbsnews.com/news/al-capone-sweetheart-gun-pistol-auction-could-sell-for-over-2-million/

Love the Python. Glad to see it back, especially now that there is a blued version. I might need a 4" (I guess the new ones are more like 4 1/4" to meet some Canadian law or something) to go with my 6". I do prefer wood grips over rubber grips, these are from Steve Herret Jr., custom made to fit my hand:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1714453043.jpg

I agree with you, Jeff. I love my Pythons and shoot them! I prefer the rubber, finger grips as I’m not a fan of the factory wood grips because the checking is irritating when shooting. Your choice of smooth, wooden grips make me curious.

Mine had Pachmeyer rubber grips on it when I bought it from my brother. Fortunately, he kept the original wood grips. I cannot believe how valuable those wood grips have become - probably because most folks took them off after the first time them shot the gun. I don't know what Colt was thinking. They are truly terrible. The checkering is proud, rather than recessed like in S&W grips. It's like holding onto a cheese grater.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1714709557.jpg

I like the recessed checkering on S&W target stocks.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1714709557.jpg

But, even then, I've switched them out to smooth wood. The M29 wears Eagle grips, which have a palm swell that I like. The M19 has another set of Herretts, custom made to my hand. They have a tracing of my hand and some measurements on file, so all I have to do is give them a holler and they can make grips for anything I want.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1714709557.jpg

Went to buy some shotgun shells today. Most of the stuff was old paper hulls but I figured should still shoot clays fine. Ended up buying a variety of 28, 16, and 12 guage shell, 52 boxes.

Saw this old pistol an a shelf and ended up with it also. I don’t know anything about it, but I got it cheap enough it doesn’t matter.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1718914931.jpg

Any idea what it is?