Table Saw Recommendations

[LWJ]

Saw stops ROCK. They are made a few miles away from me. The local dealer sells 10x saw stops vs any other brands. Fingers do count. My HS shop teacher who was very talented (Mr. Byrnes FWIW) was missing some digits on his right hand. THAT was a powerful lesson.
Larry

[Red88Carrera]

Originally Posted by LWJ

My HS shop teacher who was very talented (Mr. Byrnes FWIW) was missing some digits on his right hand. THAT was a powerful lesson.

Have you ever heard the phrase...
Those who can, do. Those who can't, teach.?

[look 171]

Since this is a car forum, how about getting out onto the track(time attack type events), without safety equip? After all, it is driver error? I don't own a Sawstop, but it sure is nice to have to protect me from my dumb ass.

[Red88Carrera]

The best piece of safety equipment should be that 3 pound mass between your ears. It should tell you when you are not doing something safely.

[LWJ]

A student distracted him at the wrong moment. I get it. My daughter was talking to me tonight as I was using my table saw. Danger!

Good luck!
Larry

[msk1986911]

Thanks for the comments. Time permitting, I will take a look at the Ridgid today.

Mike

[1990C4S]

General. I used to have a crappy saw. There is no comparison.

General Models 650R & 350R 10-inch 3 HP Cabinet Saw with Riving Knife

[msk1986911]

If I didn't have bad luck I'd have none...I spent some time with my current saw, truing up the fence and sliding miter table ti the blade; nearly perfect as far as I can tell; lubed the lifting mechanism and all is good. This morning I went to recheck my measurements and change the throat plate...no movement on the lift mechanism. It appears though the threads on the motor housing are stripped. My choices now are to 1) repair the stripped threads with heli-coil; 2) buy a new motor housing; 3) part out the saw and buy something new to me.

Dad911: let me know if you have any interest in spare parts.
Mike

[dad911]

Originally Posted by msk1986911

If I didn't have bad luck I'd have none...I spent some time with my current saw, truing up the fence and sliding miter table ti the blade; nearly perfect as far as I can tell; lubed the lifting mechanism and all is good. This morning I went to recheck my measurements and change the throat plate...no movement on the lift mechanism. It appears though the threads on the motor housing are stripped. My choices now are to 1) repair the stripped threads with heli-coil; 2) buy a new motor housing; 3) part out the saw and buy something new to me.

Dad911: let me know if you have any interest in spare parts.
Mike

Too bad it didn't work out. Don't need anything, thanks anyway.

[NY65912]

I've got a 3 hp Delta with a Biesemyer fence that is 25 years old. Why
not look for a quality used saw with a quality fence. I can rip thru big oak with ease.

[RWebb]

Originally Posted by Red88Carrera

The best piece of safety equipment should be that 3 pound mass between your ears. It should tell you when you are not doing something safely.

if and only if you are packing a full 6-pack

[vash]

man. i cant even listen to the sound of a table saw without wincing in imaginary pain. i was an idiot and cut myself..there is no time for a last second save when it comes to a table saw...brrrruutttt!! done! your bleeding, and getting all light headed..

shiver!

[J P Stein]

I built a table saw.

Table saws are not about HP, IMO, but ease of use, blades, fences, and requirements. The average guy needs a 5HP, 220v table saw like another hole in your head.

The ease of use part is a safety factor. When (not if) you get hung up, a 220V saw will throw you and your work piece thru a wall....BTDT...almost...not me but the piece. A 115lb, 4 X 8 X 3/4 sheet of MDF is not easy to manipulate even if you have muscles in your s***.
If your 220v saw is fighting you, you loose. My 110v Sears saw looses.....or did when I was younger....and I'm not looking for a re-engagement.



My big router is built in (but removable) on the right end. The whole works weighs in around 500-600 lbs & on casters. I have extra tooling to support big stuff while cutting. I have all my fingers also (knock wood) tho they are a bit scared.

If I *needed* an industrial strenght saw, I'd go with Powermatic or Delta and a GOOD FENCE.

[Mark Henry]

Originally Posted by J P Stein

I built a table saw.

Table saws are not about HP, IMO, but ease of use, blades, fences, and requirements. The average guy needs a 5HP, 220v table saw like another hole in your head.

The ease of use part is a safety factor. When (not if) you get hung up, a 220V saw will throw you and your work piece thru a wall....BTDT...almost...not me but the piece. A 115lb, 4 X 8 X 3/4 sheet of MDF is not easy to manipulate even if you have muscles in your s***.
If your 220v saw is fighting you, you loose. My 110v Sears saw looses.....or did when I was younger....and I'm not looking for a re-engagement.

So you were using it wrong, but it would more dangerous if it had more power?

It's a table saw, not a panel saw, there's a big difference.
BTW I've owned a $20K panel saw at one time and my present tablesaw I built the fence and the sliding panel table. It's built correctly for cutting 4'X 8' sheet goods.
One of my papers is in Cabinetmaking and oh yeh... I have all my digits.

[donagain1]

Does Delta even exist anymore, or was it wrapped into Powermatic?

[look 171]

Originally Posted by donagain1

Does Delta even exist anymore, or was it wrapped into Powermatic?

No, but they are not what they werre at one time. Thinner metal and casting. I still would buy one of those then any of the Taiwan saws for general use.

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by Mark Henry

I'd call the grizzly stuff semi pro or entry level, looks a lot like the Craftex and King stuff the sell up here. I bet it all comes from the same Chinese factory.
To me this is an entry level saw and about the smallest I'd ever buy.
G1023RL 10" 3 HP 220V Cabinet Left-Tilting Table Saw

BTW all accidents on a table saw are operator error.

Got the 12" Craftex version of the Grizzly with the Excalibur sliding table: General 50-SLT60P - Excalibur sliding table

Nice combo.

[matthew-s]

I just picked up one of these. Its my first(?) table saw, so I can't compare it to much. I'm lead to believe it's one of the better job-site saws.

4100-09 10" Worksite Table Saw with Gravity-Rise

I don't have the room for a traditional pedestal-style saw.

I briefly looked at the StopSaw online. I think I'd get one if I knew it would get heavy use (as in, familiarity breeds indifference to safety). If I ever get the space, and upgrade to a pedestal-style saw I'd look at the StopSaw again. As things stand, I'm plenty scared of the saw to stay safe around it (I hope).

Good luck. I've had fun so far, and now I'm already eyeing a router table to round things out: http://www.benchdog.com/protopcontractor.cfm

It seems like a good price/performance compromise.

[onewhippedpuppy]

Originally Posted by NY65912

I've got a 3 hp Delta with a Biesemyer fence that is 25 years old. Why
not look for a quality used saw with a quality fence. I can rip thru big oak with ease.

This. My father in law is a professional cabinetmaker with 25+ years experience. His workshop has two Delta pedestal saws (rip and dado) with cast iron tables and Biesmeyer fences. They are at least 20 years old, and vastly superior to anything you can buy new. I don't think he has ever had to tweak the fence, it is spot-on perfect every time. Having used it many times, I can tell you that it makes expensive new saws feel incredibly cheap. He often laments that you simply cannot buy anything even close to the same quality anymore, no matter what the price.

Focus on the table and fence, because most of them are total crap.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by J P Stein

I built a table saw.

Table saws are not about HP, IMO, but ease of use, blades, fences, and requirements. The average guy needs a 5HP, 220v table saw like another hole in your head.

The ease of use part is a safety factor. When (not if) you get hung up, a 220V saw will throw you and your work piece thru a wall....BTDT...almost...not me but the piece. A 115lb, 4 X 8 X 3/4 sheet of MDF is not easy to manipulate even if you have muscles in your s***.
If your 220v saw is fighting you, you loose. My 110v Sears saw looses.....or did when I was younger....and I'm not looking for a re-engagement.



My big router is built in (but removable) on the right end. The whole works weighs in around 500-600 lbs & on casters. I have extra tooling to support big stuff while cutting. I have all my fingers also (knock wood) tho they are a bit scared.

If I *needed* an industrial strenght saw, I'd go with Powermatic or Delta and a GOOD FENCE.

an under power tool is a dangerous tool. When the saw comes back up to speed, that's when things go wrong. A single cut is always more accurate then multiple cuts to achieve the same result. Kick backs should not happen. Most are operator errors. I cut miles miles of panels with traditional saws with outfeed supports by myself im my youth working for various cabinet makers. I am done fighting and cut panels on our panel saw. Safe, and done accurately without blow outs on melamine.

If and when I do anything in the shop, my old fashion Powermatic 66 is usually where I go, not my sliding saw.