Manually push the front derailleur to see if it reaches the big ring. I know you already know this but is the set screw backed out to max?

Cool bike!

The additional bits that come with a set of "Campagnolo Hyperon Ultra Wheels" (carbon). :cool:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1689116141.jpg

My trusty road bike since 2004, has over 36k miles on it, still the same magic carpet ride as the day I got it.
Have had many carbon, steel, aluminum frames since, but always gone back to ti.
https://i.imgur.com/8DbjdU6.jpg

Yes, screw is backed out, cable is undone. Manually pulling cage out, it is short.

Can someone take a look at their Tarmac and check this dimension - chainstay to large chainring. I know, there's going to be variables and this one has the frame protector that adds 2-3MM. I'm measuring 12.5mm from the frame protector to the chainring center. Just trying to ballpark it right now. The derailleur travel is at least 7-8mm short. Thanks.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1689121641.jpg

I've got about 13 on mine, same on my winter bike (Kona Zing Deluxe).

My steel gravel bike with a 105 has 9. (Kona Rove)

Are you positive you're completely out of derailleur adjustment? Is something maybe blocking it? Try removing the cable and just checking the mech. by hand?

OK, so offset appears OK. Thanks! Cable is completely disconnected and adj screw is backed all the way out. I'm going to have to remove the derailleur and see if something is blocking it internally. Very strange.

On a completely different note, I pulled this 3-spd Huffy out of the trash 2 weeks ago and made a few modifications :D My ride around the 'hood bike. The Rattocampionissimo - roughly Rat Champion Supreme in Italian.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1689123660.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1689123660.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1689123660.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1689123660.jpg

Ah shoot! you beat me to the decals.

Give me a day or two for the downbar bike reveal! :)

edit- actually Curt- you need a front water bottle mount and a stubby front fender so you don't slip on the cobblestones!
That is the best looking Huffy I've ever seen in my life!

edit two- I know the person who I pulled my bike from the trash can 20+ years ago. I am going to make a montage and send it to her of all the places her bike (actually her son's bike) has been.

They will be amazed, and then arrest me for bike theft!

^^^ can't wait to see it :D

Tarmac problem solved. Sort of. Took the derailleur off and completely cleaned it. Grimey, but not anything unusual. Reinstalled and carefully aligned. Annnnnnddd ... it works. :rolleyes: So I'm thinking it was mounted too low by a mm or so and the massive triple cage was actually hitting the small chainring. The problem is it shifts like crap. Apparently, this bike has triple brifters as well, so there's 3 detentes. When you shift to the big ring, you have to push in on the brifter twice! I'm going to try to adjust the cable for the middle detente and see if that works better.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1689161452.jpg

First impressions of the Tarmac Pro from a classic steel rider: Light, light, light. And did I mention it's light? Extremely quick acceleration. Surprisingly compliant ride for a stiff frame, not twitchy at all over the bumps. But the most notable difference is out of the saddle - the first couple of sprints were a bit disconcerting because the rear is so light it felt like nothing was back there. But I got used to that quickly and it tracks completely stable. The bike has got to be an incredible climbing tool (no real climbs around here to try that).

All that said, this is a friggin' Specialized Tarmac Pro with Dura-Ace - not dissimilar to a TdF bike of 2007! And here I am, an old man riding gently rolling terrain at 20MPH average :D Not exactly what the bike was intended for. Fun to ride for sure though.

The carbon frames (coming from a steel frame guy) is that you can have your cake and eat it too.

Lighter, stiffer where it counts, more flexible where it counts. Other than the craftsmanship - win win win in every respect.

In other news, the trashcann-eur was going to be finished, but, before even doing the gratuitous glamour shot spread, I have already decided to go back to drawing board. Will strip rear of frame, braze on rear disc mounts and go gravel rims/disc! My wife is going to be mad if she sees I stole her road rims.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1689369612.JPGhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1689369892.JPG

Carbon frames are great however I've broken three in the last 25 years.

^^^ Is there a common failure location you've seen? I've checked over that Tarmac frame for hairline cracks and haven't found anything.

IME The head tube/top tube areas seem to be less than it should be on newer carbon frames, more so on disk brake frames. Seat posts are strong. So are down tubes.

Basically when they broke they were done. Technically repairable but the cost of repair exceeded the value of an undamaged frame.

The only common factor was me running into something that didn't get out of my way. :(
- and my mood at the time seems to be a big factor. "Agro old Basterd" thinking he's still young somehow. :rolleyes:

lol- As I extoll the virtues of CF, I forgot I have a new project on my plate-
Carbon repair due to chain drop/suck. Carbon ain't perfect, and pulling my cranks off last week I was reminded why. This is a pure gash caused by chain rub/suck over about 3 years. I couldn't see the extent until I removed the cranks. I cant tell if it is starting to crack structurally. It might very well be, but, it's still quiet (perhaps some acoustic monitoring equipment???/) naw.... Doesn't matter. I've got a carbon fiber repair kit on order and will reinforce the bejeseebus out of this area. I've still been riding it, as a worst case scenario the cranks would just break loose into the current bb hanger, but, I think I'll hold off until the kit comes in. I also think this is a good repair to "get into CF repair". It's structural, but not catastrophic structural if my repairs don't hold. I will overbuild the area to compensate for future chain drops. Repair pics to follow when I get into it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1689376178.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1689376178.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1689376178.JPG

A coworkers Gary Fisher bike was hit by a cart at work. You can see the metal frame is bent. I will get better pics, but any thoughts on repairing a bent frame? Tia.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1689377176.jpg

Find a local framebuilder and ask what he'll charge to straighten it on a jig.

It won't be cheap, (The bike will need to be completely disassembled, straightened, and reassembled) and your friend might be better off searching the classifieds for a replacement.

This^

I'd find a replacement frame on CL or something-
or, flip the bike on the other side and hit it with the cart again:D

Send it to Paul Brodie.

Not to be disrespectful, but who and where is Paul Brodie?