To compress the cf, lay it on and while wet wrap the area as tightly as possible with blue masking tape. Really. It'll provide compression and comes off easily, more or less, after the resin cures.

Nice lug work on the bamboo frame :D

Byron - brother picked this up yesterday at garage sale for $5. Any info???

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1690578882.jpg

Thanks Greg!
I was also watching some videos on using heat shrink tape. In the end, I wussed out because I was having a hard enough time aligning the cf over the convex shapes of the bb, and, after all, I was really looking for sacrificial layer to protect the factory weave- but next time, I'm going to spend more time looking into compressing the patch. I did sand it out and it looked semi good, and left it naked, shot a layer of clear, mounted the cranks and motored on. Will be hitting "lost river" gravel ride next weekend in WV.

Went for a nice ride today. 99 degrees hot. FACTOID- Not so hot when you don't take any data devices with a thermometer to psyche you out! :D Take a crapload of water and ignore any thermometers.

Yeah, that frame is a trip. What exactly is that exotic lug wrapping material? :)

Hey Byron, when I see this 82' Bandito frame I think of you- check out the dual rear dropouts. I'm liking the comp II's myself! Lot's of goodness here!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1690584000.jpg

^^^^ I've only seen the pic, but it looks like duct tape to me! :)

I'm guessing but that looks like self-amalgamating tape (typically silicone based).

Naturally, it would have to be a very high caliber tape to harness the power of those clipless pedals!

Random (when grams don't matter) gratuitous leather pic- Recovered the seat, wrapped the grips- BUT- slowly replacing the brake line holders from zip ties to leather. Front- leather cord- rear- leather excess from seat recover. More HF zip ties to be cut coming soon..... :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1690585303.JPG

Good enough for government work :)
(I spend all day having to be 'perfect' so it's fun to let loose after hours....)
The disc conversion scald marks match the pannier bags.
She's solid as a rock. Next time I will make with a smaller diameter reinforcement and bend it purdy.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1690586846.JPG

I'm interested to learn how you recovered the saddle, specifically how the leather is attached underneath. Is it simply glued top and bottom? What kind of glue? Looks like it came out nice.

Looked at this yesterday. Claimed to be the guy's mother's Schwinn she bought new in the 1940s. $125, but half-off today. If it were a men's I'd bought it yesterday. I know I could part it out and make some money but not sure I want the hassle. The springer fork is missing the supports, otherwise I'd buy it for that and use the fork on my rat bike.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1690629946.jpg

Thanks- this was a good case of "do as I say, not as I do"
It was a learning process. What I did wrong- use too thick of leather pieces. I was using 2mm thick pieces (approx 5 ounce weight when ordering) - too thick. What I should have used was 1mm thick leather- approximately 2.5 ounce weight leather. I would probably buy some 2 oz. and a 3oz. swatches to see what works best if 2.5 cannot be found.

Because the leather was so thick, I made a mold to compress the top against the seat. The first seat I recovered, I clamped around the edges, which worked, but you can still see the clamp marks. The mold avoids that, but I bet with 1mm thick leather, one wouldn't even need the mold, just stretch and adhere. Once dry, I went back and wrapped the leather around the edges, using exacto knife to cut out excess and adhered underneath.

Adhesive- water proof gorilla glue did not hold up in wet conditions. I went to loctite vinyl/leather/plastic and fabric, which had so far held up. I would research a 3m adhesive (leather to plastic) if I did it again. The first seat I recovered, I stripped the entire old cover/padding off. It was leather to plastic. The second seat, I just recovered over the old leather- leather to leather.

Now that I've done it , I will probably never buy a new seat again. The closest sella leather seat I can find is about $130-$160, and I can recover it much cheaper and get a better leather match to what I want.
Again- the key is a thinner leather. The original sella italia slr leather is about 1mm thick.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1690631195.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1690631195.JPG
first seat- leather to plastic base. Looks way better in person. This pic looks like a big schlong.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1690631195.JPG

Here's a pic of the second seat- adhering the leather to the original padded leather base gives it a much smoother appearance. It was raining in the pic. The plastic base molding imperfections don't show through as much, and it's more comfy. Using a thinner leather (in the future) would let me tuck it up under/around the edges cleaner too. Here you can sorta see where the thick leather didn't quite cooperate at the rear edges.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1690633095.JPG

Those seats are cool. I did a couple a few years back, and believe it or not, vittoria tubular glue works great as a contact adhesive. Weldwood would also likely work.

16 months later, I finally bought one. Actually bought two. The boy's bike has a 2 speed hub. Not all the parts are correct, but I wanted one to ride, not admire. Let's see if I can get the wife on the other one. I failed the last time. Anyone want to buy a Gary Fisher Supercaliber? I was hoping she would end up looking more like Paola Pezzo, but that didn't happen.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1690643022.jpg

^^^ Nice. I totally forgot about 2-speed hubs. How do they shift again? Do you push back on the coaster brake or something?

Yes sir, Bendix 2 speed "Kick Back ", I'd love to get one for the 49 Cycle Truck.

^^^ I seem to recall a lot of the Schwinn Tandems had the 2-speed hub.

I mounted the shifter on my rat bike on the seat stay. I wanted to keep the handlebars clean with no levers, cables, etc. This is a push-pull Shimano hub with hard wire instead of a cable and spring. Problem: The cable housing has fixed molded-in ends, so is a fixed length. I cut the housing down and found a piece of SS tube with a 4.5mm ID to slide the 2 pieces of housing snugly into and butt together.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1690745234.jpg

Working on the graphics for the race plate as we speak.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1690745491.jpg