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Regenerated User
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Note for cattails.
"Application timing is critical for cattail control and differs between diquat and glyphosate products. The contact herbicide diquat can be applied any time the cattails are green and actively growing. Most owners using diquat products apply in the summer. Glyphosate products have a narrower window for optimum results. These products should be applied just after the seed head has formed. Energy reserves are at their lowest in the roots and the plant begins to store food in the roots in anticipation of next year�s growth. This food is produced in the leaves and transported to the roots. The application of glyphosate at this time results in its transport to the roots as well, thereby killing the root system. " Cattail Management
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My uncle has a country place, that no one knows about. He said it used to be a farm, before the motor law. '72 911T 2,2S motor '76 BMW 2002 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 30,385
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This is a pic I posted recently of my largest pond, and it's been a healthy eco-system for longer than I've been alive. Spring fed (output is equilavent to a couple of water hoses on full blast) and full of life. Unfortunately, someone caught (and hopefully ate, since they were probably migrant workers) the bigger bass (10 lbs +), quite a few years ago. There is simply no way I would introduce chemicals...YMMV. When this pic was taken, the overflow pipes were clogged...unclogged, and now most of that crap on top is gone (flushed through the overflow pipes). This is my little slice of "heaven"
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Regenerated User
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You have some good shade and wind protection with that tree line. Some water lilies might help control your algae issue though. An algae die off, which happens over night, can deplete the pond of oxygen. Your spring might mitigate the damage of an algae die off.
Algae die offs can literary kill the fish.
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My uncle has a country place, that no one knows about. He said it used to be a farm, before the motor law. '72 911T 2,2S motor '76 BMW 2002 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
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My first rule-of-thumb is "do no harm"...hence I tread lightly on anything that might upset a balance that's been intact for decades. The algae isn't really an issue for me, though that pic shows it at it's worst...the real weed growth is underwater. I've seen more than my share of "fish kills" due to oxygen issues in other bodies of water over the years. I just don't take that risk...
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Functionista
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: CO
Posts: 7,717
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If you don't like chemicals (many chemicals in there already by the way) put an aerator in the middle to supply more 02.
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Jeff 74 911, #3 I do not disbelieve in anything. I start from the premise that everything is true until proved false. Everything is possible. |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 30,385
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Quote:
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Functionista
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: CO
Posts: 7,717
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Walk across the bottom at the shallow end. Smell anything? The algae and bacteria strip away the 02 leaving smelly hydrogen, sulfides, and nitrates/nitrites (chemicals).
An aerator would cut down on the (from the pic I'm guessing) floating algae. You can even find solar powered ones. Good water is all about balancing. Man can either make it better or worse. Almost all ponds can be improved.
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Jeff 74 911, #3 I do not disbelieve in anything. I start from the premise that everything is true until proved false. Everything is possible. |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 30,385
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Thanks Manbridge! I must admit it's probably been 40 years since I've walked in the shallow end, so I have no firsthand experience as of late
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Unregistered
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: a wretched hive of scum and villainy
Posts: 55,652
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Carl Spackler: This place got a pool?
Ty Webb: Pool and a pond... Pond be good for you. |
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AutoBahned
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healthy is hard to judge sometimes
ponds go thru a natural process of "aging" or succession - a clear alpine lake would be at one end (little or no life) and a swamp near the other end; eventually, the all ponds fill in with debris and become land I agree with manbridge tho - check the shallows, even snorkel in the deep end and see what is going on at the bottom sediments - you can maintain the pond more or less where you want it by careful mgmt. and it will change little over a few decades also, chemicals and fertilizer can travel 100 yards easily if you get really, really into this you could find a textbook on limnology and read it, then dial in for your area and soil type |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 30,385
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Thanks Randy! Sorry about hijacking this thread
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