almost lost my boat/trailer on the road !

[Seahawk]

Originally Posted by speeder

Since there are some trailer towing people on this thread, does anyone know the simplest/cheapest way to install some basic trailer brakes on a small trailer? It's the little travel trailer on my thread on the first page. It currently has no brakes.

How heavy can a trailer be before it needs its own brakes? I know that many small utility trailers do not have them but any panic braking would send it sideways, no? Can something really simple like surge brakes be installed? I want a little bit more of a safety margin for her. TIA.

Denis,

There is a ton of aftermarket trailer brake kits available. https://www.google.com/search?q=aftermarket+trailer+brakes&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a

The important thing is that she learn how to set the in truck/car resistance for the brakes. Seriously, a lot of folks don't take the time to learn you can adjust the amount of brake play between the vehicle and the trailer. I won't tow much of a trailer or load without trailer brakes and in cab controls.

With the right hand control in cab, if the trailer begins to oscillate for any reason, she can gently brake the trailer independent of the car brakes...brings it right back every time.

Concerning the OP, the only time I have had a trailer off the ball in over forty years of towing was when it I had an empty trailer going to pick up a tractor I had repaired at the local dealer. I forgot to lock the hitch.

Thank god I didn't forget the chains. The trailer came off over a bump when I was going about 25MPH. I dodged one.

I also have put the automatic brake device on my trailers: If they get off the ball and the chains break the trailer brakes automatically come on.

I treat, with the one notable exception, towing as an emergency about to happen.

[speeder]

A real trailer brake with controller is definitely the best set-up but right now she is towing this little trailer around with no brakes at all and I'm wondering if there is something in between that and optimum that is easy?

[Seahawk]

Originally Posted by speeder

A real trailer brake with controller is definitely the best set-up but right now she is towing this little trailer around with no brakes at all and I'm wondering if there is something in between that and optimum that is easy?

Not really. Trailer brakes can be wired directly to a hand controller but I do not recommend it...

Make it work holistically with the truck/car brakes, that is the only way. Depending on what she is driving, it could be very simple.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by URY914

I would NEVER-EVER use the two types of chain "links" shown above. Sure they are quick to hook/un-hook but they are WEAK! Check the ratings on them. They will not take a shock load like when a slack trailer chain tightens up.

I only use real clevises and wire them so the pin doesn't unscrew. I use cheap rebar tie-wire. I just cut the wire off when I'm ready to unhook.

Paul - what is the capacity (rating) of the clevis pins that you use and what is your trailer weight (loaded)?

[Dantilla]

Originally Posted by id10t

And if you are going to use a carabiner don't get one at the convienence store counter, lowes, etc. Get one from a place that sells rapelling gear - they have the ones actually meant to hold weight, not just look pretty on a keychain.

+1.

The carabiners I got are stronger than the safety chains to which they are attached.

[Dave 86 930 Fl]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

So yesterday I decided to tow my 17 ' center console to a local dealer to have an engine rebuild done, she scored a cylinder. Anyway I'm towing with my 3500 diesel dually about 60 mph on the highway when something doesn't feel right . I look in my rearview mirror and the boat/trailer are swaying and I can tell it is at the tongue !!! So I let off the throttle and that's when I hear the tongue engaging the pavement........oh $hit . Not sure if it was luck or skill but I got the rig to the shoulder without losing it. Got out and yep she rode on the tongue for a bit, enough to grind down that little bump piece that's on the bottom of the tongue. So here I am on the side of the road with the tongue on the ground, it's too close to the ground to flip down the jack. So I got the truck jack and was able to get it high enough in the air to swing down the regular jack. As I looked over what happened I noticed that the hitch ball latch was straight up in the air vs. in the down locked position. Turns out the bolt I was using as a lock pin somehow backed out and allowed the locking mechanism to unlock, a little scary to say the least ! I found a scrap piece of wire to use as a temp lock pin to continue my journey. This was only a 20 minute trip. So make sure your safety chains are in good order and use a good lock pin. I'm going to use a clevis pin with a hitch pin in the future. I got away with one it could have really been ugly.

Glad all is well. Buddy of mine did the same with his Fountain ... Hit the brakes and the nose came right through the back window of his Suburban!

[Porsche-O-Phile]

Lucky it didn't get him in the back of the head - that'd ruin his whole day!

[berettafan]

crossing an intersection on a 2 lane highway (thank goodness going very slow) pulling the 23' center console and my son says 'dad the boat is getting farther away'.


clamp thingy had been pushed up by the ball and never engaged. wire safety lines did zippo to stop it.

ended well though as I stopped the truck and let the trailer hit it.

[VINMAN]

Originally Posted by id10t

And if you are going to use a carabiner don't get one at the convienence store counter, lowes, etc. Get one from a place that sells rapelling gear - they have the ones actually meant to hold weight, not just look pretty on a keychain.

That's crazy. No way I would ever use a carabiner made for rope work, climbing , rapelling, etc..,. They are not designed to use as a chain connection point, or to take that type of shock load. Especially an aluminum one. I only use shackles like the ones URY posted.

[id10t]

Originally Posted by VINMAN

That's crazy. No way I would ever use a carabiner made for rope work, climbing , rapelling, etc..,. They are not designed to use as a chain connection point, or to take that type of shock load. Especially an aluminum one. I only use shackles like the ones URY posted.

I agree - but others before me suggested using a 'beaner, and if'n you are gonna do that, at least get one that can hold weight.