Skool Me on Deck / Materials

[berettafan]

Originally Posted by VincentVega

I'm sure its dependant on sun exposure but a friend in our area skipped his yearly oiling and it looks like chit. He was going for the dark as installed look, now its weathered like untreated teak or cedar.

bought some used teak deck furniture a few years ago. got the teak cleaner, teak oil, whole nine yards.

loved the smell of the furniture but will never own teak again. I oiled and sanded like a mad man and was never impressed with the finish I got.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by berettafan

bought some used teak deck furniture a few years ago. got the teak cleaner, teak oil, whole nine yards.

loved the smell of the furniture but will never own teak again. I oiled and sanded like a mad man and was never impressed with the finish I got.

What are you looking for? The sun will beat anything to pulp over time. Depending on the so called "Teak", they all gray or turn dark to colors. It need to be sanded along with the oil then waxed to keep moisture away. Rub wax with steel wool. This offers little more protection, but that's about it.

They are all similar harvested materials from the tropics. Real Teak is a lot of money. About a year ago, I built some wine glass holder for a client and they were 18 bucks for a board foot. Aint cheap.

[Salty Springs]

We just added an exposed deck at our place.The wrap around deck is PT and is completely covered,so that is fine. But I don't like it when exposed.Thought about composites but not really thrilled with them.Ipe is very pretty but this Tiger Wood (which I found on evil bay)is stunning. We have washed and oiled it twice this year. Have been told a couple more times and it should be fairly maintenance free. good luck
Dave

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by Paul K

We had a deck built from ipe, pronounced eepay. Hard as all get up, looks great. Spendy but I'd do it again.

We have used IPE on some of our yachty type boats in lieu of Walnut or Mahogany, it is is a very heavy and dense wood that is very difficult to work, also very splintery until finished and sealed. Best uses are in wet, high traffic areas, I use it it the door thresholds in my house and for serving trays, it would be very expensive to do a large deck in IPE,

pressure treated yellow pine is still one of the best reasonably priced deck materials out there.

Some more exotic, read that expensive alternatives, Sitka spruce, Redwood, Cedar, Cypress

[asphaltgambler]

Really liking that ^^^^thanks for all the input! Can you PM me on who was the seller / outfit represented on Ebay?

[aigel]

I would not touch a synthetic material with a 10 foot pole. UV is really hard on synthetic material and you have to have the product perfect - I'd even worry about batch to batch variation in a material with good reviews. A redwood deck on the other hand is proven and redwood trees do not need uv stabilizer or plasticizer etc.

I am not a chemist but have done a lot of process work in manufacturing, so that has me a little spooked - I have seen how sausage is made, so to speak ...

G

[Salty Springs]

https://buy.tigerwooddecking.com/shoppingcart.aspx


Not 100% sure but I think I got it here.

[asphaltgambler]

Salty - thanks for the help - I really like that look for the deck boarding. I also like to eliminate the vertical pieces on the railing and install 3/8" cabling stacked horizontally for a modern look.

[Rusty Heap]

Tiger Deck owner/installer here, over 750 sq ft of it. 12 x 50 foot, then a middle dog leg deck around a hot tub. Put it down 10 years ago.

I love it dearly.


lives in damp Seattle Mountain weather, but full southern sun exposure. no moss or mildew problem on hardwood, cedar decks last maybe 10 years here.


I'd do it again in a heart beat. I also did slick alum T star screws and hidden fasteners biscuited into the sides

some Tigerdeck comes with a pre-routered groove.

I put it in a herringbone style, wood has weathered excellent over 10+ years, with SuperDeck Hardwood stain every couple years. After the first 5-6 coats, I've not needed it as often.

Trex and other composites, no way, thermal issues and icky tacky factor.


My TigerDeck was Cashew Wood, also known as zebra wood, from Honduras or Brazil. It's incredible dense and hard/heavy. This wood is CLEAR, zero knots, not a one. no "tight knot" with round holes/plugs ever couple feet..........

I put down 5/4" x 6. True 1" thick.

It Hasn't cupped or warped at all, even with hidden fasteners. not some wimpy 1/2" x 4 (though in tigerdeck, that's still about the strength factor of a pine 2x4) . On my herringbone too, I was spanning about 18" over the Joists. No I'm not anall............but I even painted the tops of the floor joints black so I wouldn't see them through the 1/8" gap.


IPE, is just another brand name for a Hardwood, so make sure you know your species, and what you're getting.


I got mine from an independent lumber yard, but you used to be able to special order Tigerdeck from HomeDepot.


Here is the deck from 10 years ago new construction in 2006.

If someone wants a scrap sample of the hardwood, I'll send you a hunk, pm me.








As I said, pay postage and you'll free samples of my scraps, and any questions let me know.....zero regrets on the tigerdeck.

it's gorgeous. I'll post some "after 10 year photos" soon.

https://www.google.com/search?q=tigerdeck+wood+images&rlz=1C1FLDB_enUS512US512&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=604&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjF0cen3YzNAhVEImMKHYGvDocQsAQIIg

[scottmandue]

Originally Posted by look 171

Oil it right before winter. if you really want, oil it in the spring.

I'm planing on a small outdoor project and going to use PT for cost savings, what kind of oil would you treat it with?

[asphaltgambler]

WoW!!- that looks great! - I really appreciate all the input. Also dig the hidden fasteners and the 45 mating at each end

[look 171]

Originally Posted by scottmandue

I'm planing on a small outdoor project and going to use PT for cost savings, what kind of oil would you treat it with?

Penofin, Scott. Buy the quart size because the formula changes in the gallon cans. At least that was they was it was 6-7 years ago. Great stuff. They have those at Stock Lumber.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by Rusty Heap

****


IPE, is just another brand name for a Hardwood, so make sure you know your species, and what you're getting.


***

Ipe is not a brand name
from the Wood dictionary
Common Name(s): Ipe, Brazilian Walnut, Lapacho

Scientific Name: Handroanthus spp. (formerly placed in the Tabebuia genus)

Distribution: Tropical Americas (Central and South America); also farmed commercially

Tree Size: 100-130 ft (30-40 m) tall, 2-4 ft (.6-1.2 m) trunk diameter

Average Dried Weight: 69 lbs/ft3 (1,100 kg/m3)

Specific Gravity (Basic, 12% MC): .91, 1.10

Janka Hardness: 3,510 lbf (15,620 N)

Modulus of Rupture: 25,660 lbf/in2 (177.0 MPa)

Elastic Modulus: 3,200,000 lbf/in2 (22.07 GPa)

Crushing Strength: 13,600 lbf/in2 (93.8 MPa)

Shrinkage: Radial: 5.9%, Tangential: 7.2%, Volumetric: 12.4%, T/R Ratio: 1.2

[dan79brooklyn]

Originally Posted by Paul K

We had a deck built from ipe, pronounced eepay. Hard as all get up, looks great. Spendy but I'd do it again.

We used Ipe wood too. Yes it's expensive. I didn't want to deal with oiling it every year, so I just let it fade to a nice silver grey. It's supposed to last 20-30 years. The stuff is do dense it sinks in water!
The only maintenance it has needed is a yearly scrub down with a stiff broom to remove mold during the wet months.
The cost made sense because of the longevity and strength of the wood.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by Bill Verburg

Ipe is not a brand name
from the Wood dictionary
Common Name(s): Ipe, Brazilian Walnut, Lapacho

Scientific Name: Handroanthus spp. (formerly placed in the Tabebuia genus)

Distribution: Tropical Americas (Central and South America); also farmed commercially

Tree Size: 100-130 ft (30-40 m) tall, 2-4 ft (.6-1.2 m) trunk diameter

Average Dried Weight: 69 lbs/ft3 (1,100 kg/m3)

Specific Gravity (Basic, 12% MC): .91, 1.10

Janka Hardness: 3,510 lbf (15,620 N)

Modulus of Rupture: 25,660 lbf/in2 (177.0 MPa)

Elastic Modulus: 3,200,000 lbf/in2 (22.07 GPa)

Crushing Strength: 13,600 lbf/in2 (93.8 MPa)

Shrinkage: Radial: 5.9%, Tangential: 7.2%, Volumetric: 12.4%, T/R Ratio: 1.2

Dang Bill, you are pretty hardcore of scientific. I have a degree in woodworking from a state university. I have seen stuff like that in a long time. Funny.

[zakthor]

I replaced a weird indoor/outdoor deck with pipe. Was a huge amount of work. You need metalworking bits and even then the table saw sparks when you rip pipe due to the high silicon content. Every screw hole pre drilled and countersunk. 410sq feet took me about 2 years to complete. Best is to work as if your building from aluminum. The ipe I have laughs at stain, it rolls off in the rain.

It was the right and necessary choice for my application (periodic standing water) but I'd really need a good reason to do it again. I did the deck 10 years ago and 1x4x12' were 0.90/ft, the boards were cheaper than almost everything. Quotes for labor is what made it expensive which is why I did it myself. After 10 years there is simply no wear, I think it will last 40 more.

When it came time to replace the entry deck we used cedar and were done in a weekend.

[sc_rufctr]

For the USA?

Ipe or ironwood. You can't go wrong.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by zakthor

I replaced a weird indoor/outdoor deck with pipe. Was a huge amount of work. You need metalworking bits and even then the table saw sparks when you rip pipe due to the high silicon content. Every screw hole pre drilled and countersunk. 410sq feet took me about 2 years to complete. Best is to work as if your building from aluminum. The ipe I have laughs at stain, it rolls off in the rain.

It was the right and necessary choice for my application (periodic standing water) but I'd really need a good reason to do it again. I did the deck 10 years ago and 1x4x12' were 0.90/ft, the boards were cheaper than almost everything. Quotes for labor is what made it expensive which is why I did it myself. After 10 years there is simply no wear, I think it will last 40 more.

When it came time to replace the entry deck we used cedar and were done in a weekend.

I don't know where you are getting your Ipe, but all the Ipe I have used over the years was cut with simple carbide saw blades, router blades and the typ. HHS drill bits. Sure, it will chew through the HHS bits faster then most lumber out there, but very manageable. I have been pushing and using Ipe over 20 years ago when I first learn about them at a trade show. This was when people were still using Redwood. When I mention IPe, they all say "Ip what?" They were never $.90 a lin.', even back then. Now that their popularity had grown, the demand is also higher and naturally, pricing goes up. I just price out 5/4, 1x6 at about 2.90 a lin.'. That's my wholesale price.

[zakthor]

Originally Posted by look 171

I don't know where you are getting your Ipe, but all the Ipe I have used over the years was cut with simple carbide saw blades, router blades and the typ. HHS drill bits. Sure, it will chew through the HHS bits faster then most lumber out there, but very manageable. I have been pushing and using Ipe over 20 years ago when I first learn about them at a trade show. This was when people were still using Redwood. When I mention IPe, they all say "Ip what?" They were never $.90 a lin.', even back then. Now that their popularity had grown, the demand is also higher and naturally, pricing goes up. I just price out 5/4, 1x6 at about 2.90 a lin.'. That's my wholesale price.

Got it at crosscut hardwoods in Seattle. 2002? Price included delivery. 1x4 in 10' and 12'. Other mainstream places at the time were much more expensive. I remember at the time it was a miracle for the money, I remember some places you couldn't get knotted pine for the same price. I also bought a few 2x6 for railings and that stuff was much more expensive. I think $2.50/foot. Maybe they discounted my batch of 1x4 because it was so f'ing hard?

A clean cut is shiny like vinyl with edges like a knife, crazy hard.

As for tool wear, some pieces were just insanely hard, like soft stone. My normal bits were eaten alive. Cobalt bits wore very quickly. I built pallets, screwed from the back with #12 stainless sheet metal screws, lots of taking that poor countersink bit to be resharpened. I experimented with #10 screws but the heads would twist off unless I made the predrilled hole too big.

I'm a woodworking idiot so maybe I did it all wrong.