Rudy!! Q about outer rocker panels

[squidmarks]

Tom, it looks like you're wrestling with similar rust areas that I just finished with. I I chose not to take off the outer rocker panels. Once I cut the rusty bits out and was able to look behind the outer rocker panel, I was able to cut them back to where they were ok. The I didn't have any rust at the front end of the rockers.

I made a 3' wand and sprayed POR-15 inside both rockers (as well as every other nook and cranny I could get the wand into) to catch any remaining bits of rust as well as protect.

She's all welded, patched up, smoothed over and epoxy primed now. I've got a rust patch on my passenger fender that I have to deal with now (similar to yours).

Some pics below - lots more here.

Geoff

[village idiot]

Wow Geoff! Indeed, we have similar problem areas , but yours looks more advanced than mine.

I had a chance to further fit my outer rocker but neglected to take any photos. I need to adjust the door some more then I'll be ready to final weld the rocker in and start on the curve where the door lock post meets the door sill.

After that there's just one or two small areas that need metal work then on to the dreaded task of making the 'glass bumpers fit better. My front appears to be about 1 inch too wide and the rear fits ok but the ends aren't as nice as I'd like

[village idiot]

Ok, so the shim thing didn't do as much as I tought it would. After aligning the door to fit better I found that the rocker still did not come out level with the door.

And the gap along the bottom was too big as well


Since I had already cut the original rocker off I decided to make a "cap" to go over the top of the replacement. It's much closer fitting now but I'm on the fence as to wether I'll procede this way.


With the cap in place everything lines up better.



I welcome any thoughts you may have.

Tom

[robmog]

tom,
did you try pushing the rocker upward?
that will close your gap and maybe bring it out a bit.
i know you've already drilled for the clecos, but holes can be filled easily.
i don't like the idea of "capping". that's a lot of dead space to accumulate moisture and re-rust.
i'm at the same stage with mine and feel your pain,
good luck

[Axiom]

A couple of questions Tom: is the top of the sill the same as the old one, check the other side if you don't have the old one, and, is the gap difference the same along the lenght of the door?

[village idiot]

Rudy, as far as I can tell they are the same. It just seems the stamping is a bit off.
The gap is pretty uniform the length of the door.

I'm getting pretty frustrated with this part. Almost to the point of ordering an O.E. rocker(if that's even possible).

Rob, I had to use an exhaust stand to push the rocker up enough to get it to mate with the tub on the bottom.

I realize that for the most part these cars are hand built, but that doesn't make me feel any better

[cgarr]

When I replaced my rockers on my 69 I had to lead the top edge all the way to get it to line up with the door, the top of the rocker curved in, it was the only way I could get it to match the door panel.

[village idiot]

Craig, I'd like to try lead work have no previous experience with it.

I'm gonna take a break from it for now and try to come up with a new strategy. Keep the ideas coming, I really appreciate the input.

Tom

[cgarr]

The only reason I used lead was because the edge was very thin and its where you might hit it getting into the car other wise a good filler would work I think? I just laid a bead down with a big hot soldering iron and some 1/8 inch coil solder then cleaned the acid up with baking soda and water.

[Axiom]

Good idea to take a break, sometimes it's needed.....Tom, this could be a trail and error kind of thing, let's find out what is off, if they are of the same measurement, inside the tub, where you detatched the original panel, is it damaged? If the gap is consistant, what fits? did the door fit nicely before?

Don't get frustrated, just be patient.

[village idiot]

I'll try to take a couple measurements tomorrow if I don't go golfing I'll keep you updated.
Thanks again

[village idiot]

Aargh, I finally got through to Resto Designs and they didn't have any rockers on hand.

As you might be guessing I'm giving up on trying to re-work this part to fit. Looks like I'll have to bite the bullet and call Performance products or somebody else to get a new one...............

At least I have my 914 to play with now

[Axiom]

Is it that bad ?? no way you can re folded..

[village idiot]

Originally Posted by Axiom

Is it that bad ?? no way you can re folded..

I'm sure that the "cap method" I was thinking of would do the trick............but it would bug me that I had to do it that way, and like Rob stated it becomes another place for water to settle in and create more rust.

[robmog]

tom,
just a thought, having just finished installing my outer rocker.
if you whack at the black arrows along the length of the sill,
you should get net movement of the red arrow.
of course you'll need a BFH to do it.
it worked for me.
another tip, if the above works:
tack weld at the fender mount and kidney bowl to establish your lower door gap.
once set, the welds at door seal channel and rocker bottom won't change much.
good luck

[village idiot]

Thanks for your input Rob. I may give that a try this weekend. i took a couple weekends off to do other things so I'm anxious to get cracking on it again

[Classic]

I'm having the same problem RD outer rocker

1/2 inch gap at the bottom, out from the inner rocker.

but at the moment i don't have any gap to the door.

BFH required me thinks

Any suggestions greatly appreciated

[village idiot]

I got a new piece from Automotion and it seems to fit much better.

However I've been doing other things like repairing a Civic that I bought from an action that I'm giving to my Mom.

More progress will follow soon

Classic: I had the same problem initially, but when I pushed the bottom upward and inward to the body the gap below the door became better.

[Classic]

Thanks for that, some work required.

I think i can make it fit with an even gap, considering the gap i have to pull at the bottom, frustrating as it is I'm still having fun.

Tony

[Jagshund]

All (yes, all) of the pieces I've received from Stoddard have either been 'slightly off' or wrinkled, but everything has been workable. However, the time involved in bringing the pieces back within specs (3 hr/ea for the rear frame sections near tt) does not really justify ordering them from said location . . . finally decided to send everything off to a local fab shop with the MOA brakes and a kick a** CNC plasma machine.