Garage/Barn find

[w21055]

Deep sixes have a deeper lip at the end of the pedals, flat sixes are just that, flat, so instead of the pedal stopping flat it sorta curves into the lip. Big difference in price. The 7R wheel you posted a while back is what the pedals look like on a deep 6. Some Deep sixes have a heart shaped hole at the valve stem and the later ones do not.

On your other question, H4's will fit, I just put them on my 68. H1's are correct for the year, but about twice the price.

Phillip

[merbesfield]

If anyone has any Fuchs for sale please let me know. Need 4. Prefer the deep six.

[Jaems]

This is the correct lens and headlamp assembly for a Euro car. Originally it a was Hella bulb type and later became a H4.

The Hella looks just like the clear lens that cover the seal beam lights. With the exception it is fluted like any of the older seal beam.

type.

The Bosh H4 and H1 are much later and are what most folks use and think is the correct year for the early cars. But it is not. The Bosh lens stick out from the top and goes pretty much straight down.

[merbesfield]

Anyone know what this symbol is? It is on the back of the DS rear qtr. interior panel. Also, where does this horse hair piece go? It just appeared while tearing the back up.

[RG68912]

Merbesfield,

There are deep 6's and flat 6's.
The deep 6's were produced from 1969 to (I believe) 1972. The deep 6's with hearts being made in 1969 and 1970 only. They have a deeper lip and they look wider than the flat 6's.

The deep 6's are harder to find and more valuable.

Here is an Ebay ad with 2 deep 6's and 2 flat 6's. Very good pictures.

6x15 Polished Fuchs For Sale (2 are deep 6's w/ hearts) : eBay Motors (item 300394218261 end time Feb-15-10 19:38:57 PST)


Randal

[JT912]

No idea about your symbol but the other piece goes on the hump between the rear seats. It should fit at the edge closest to the front seats.

[merbesfield]

thanks jt912

[merbesfield]

Progress update. 5-6 hours. Got the tank out and stripped. It is ready to be delivered to the tank refinish shop, then I will shoot it with Stone Guard Grey when it comes back. Worked on stripping all the old SG out of the trunk area. One nice surprise, someone replaced the front pan on this car at some time and the did a pretty decent job. I will do a little fine work on it and once the SG goes on it will look like the factory job. That explains why there was no rust in this area. This is one nasty job.

[w21055]

Looks good so far and nice find on the front pan.

[merbesfield]

Anyone know how to fix this horn button? Or are they easy to find?



And after another 4-5 hours this is where I am at with the trunk. Getting closer to paint.



Did Porsche use seam sealers? I have not seen any on my car or others that have been resto'ed. Seems kind of stupid to not use a high quality ss, but I would not want to do something that would hurt future value. Not sure you would really see it too much after the application of Stone Guard tho.

[JT912]

Unfortunately that horn button is reasonably rare. They do come up on Ebay. Not sure about fixing it. Maybe an epoxy or someone who has experience with repairing delicate parts.

[merbesfield]

Decided to go ahead and media blast the truck area after I got the old undercoat off. Got the trunk preped today for blasting. Going to blast the front lip at the same time. I also, received a pair of fog lights I got off ebay. Let me know if you guys think these are the right ones? They look pretty close if not exact. They are just over 6" wide and made by Hella.

[Jaems]

It is not recommended to do media blasting on an older Porsche. The media gets into places where it can not be removed and then later causes rusting.

[merbesfield]

I always block off any unaccessable or unknown holes. But to be sure what areas are not accessable and should be avoided on a 911-912?

[micheloaks]

jaems

i have had many discussions on this with people and their is no definitive answer - each 'expert' has an opinion and approach.

I do however agree that media blasting - sand, walnut, glass, plastic et al should be done with caution and discretely, where possible, as good intentioned as you maybe masking off and sealing never really seems to keep it all out.

Though there are some places that a wire brush just never seems to work that well. I am all for blasting the outside of a vehicle if necessary.

Side issue - As I am about to strip/blast wire brush my 65 912 has any one had success with any/all of the dipping and soda processes. They appear to offer advantage and also a literal can of worms - thoughts?

or is it all about the wrist...

[merbesfield]

I have done a good bit of blasting myself. There are many issues. Power of machine, size aggregate or abrasive, person who is doing the work, and the thickness of the product you are blasting. I think the metal on my 68 912 is really thick, which is good. For me, good old sand blast sand works well and is cheap. There are tons of options and I am no expert. The blasting I will be doing in the trunk is for getting into the cracks and crevices that a grinder could never reach. IMO, if you don't do this, you are not doing it right. I am not familiar with dipping so I cannot comment on what it does to rust. After I blast, I use compressed air, shop vac and a back pack blower to get the sand dust off the car before bringing it back into the shop. But the sand does seem to keep coming out for a while, but by the time I am finished with metal work it is gone. IMO, do it once and do it right. That is why I sand blast. Oh and always use personal protection devices. Especially a respirator.

Another product that I have found works really well at stripping paint fast in large areas with no damage is the Norton Rapid Strip Wheel/Disc. item #04015. Or similar product. But this one seems to work better than others I have used. It attaches to a 4.5" angle grinder and makes quick work of the paint and surface rust. Buy many of them bc they work well, stay away from sharp edges of the metal as it will shorten the life of the disc.

[Jaems]

With dipping there is the problem of getting all of the chemicals neutralized. If you do not then it starts to rust under the paint.

The old craftsman's and that including the new ones that approach body and paint in that classical manner, will only removed paint by the use of a DA or like wheel/disk. Stripping by dipping leaves a residue that will require neutralizing. Also the media blasting will leave the media in cracks and crevices that will later haunt you with rust under the paint. If you are lucky in covering all the hole and crevices with masking tape. It will have taken less time to DA it. Those who have sprayed painted and not remove the parts but just masked. Have found, no mater how well they have masked. They always seem to miss something. It is, I believe, called Murphy's law.

Those that do showcar body and paint, at least in my state, do not use dipping or blasting to strip off the paint to bare metal. But that is why they get the big bucks. However, to each his own.

[merbesfield]

Originally Posted by Jaems

With dipping there is the problem of getting all of the chemicals neutralized. If you do not then it starts to rust under the paint.

The old craftsman's and that including the new ones that approach body and paint in that classical manner, will only removed paint by the use of a DA or like wheel/disk. Stripping by dipping leaves a residue that will require neutralizing. Also the media blasting will leave the media in cracks and crevices that will later haunt you with rust under the paint. If you are lucky in covering all the hole and crevices with masking tape. It will have taken less time to DA it. Those who have sprayed painted and not remove the parts but just masked. Have found, no mater how well they have masked. They always seem to miss something. It is, I believe, called Murphy's law.

Those that do showcar body and paint, at least in my state, do not use dipping or blasting to strip off the paint to bare metal. But that is why they get the big bucks. However, to each his own.

I sort of agree. The body is easy to strip with DA or Discs. But the cracks and crevices in the trunk, where I will be blasting, could never be properly prepped with a disc product. I have spent three long days doing the removal with disc and it is good, but not great. It would probably not re-rust in my life time, but I am just anal like that. Yes, with Murphy's Law, you are correct, that sh#$%it gets everywhere. I will let you know how it goes in a day or so after I am finished. I am not looking forward to it as it is a crappy job, but someone has to do it.

[micheloaks]

forgot to say great progress -

DA? short for

with dipping neutralizing is the issue as it can be also a rust instigator itself. Though some companies state that they 'bake' the cars afterwards thus cooking out the trapped residue. still not ultimately convinced and would like to hear form others on this.

Also has anyone used soda as a blast media?

[merbesfield]

DA stands for Dual Action. Dual Action described.

I have no knowledge of the dipping process?