SSI install derailed by out of spec oil lines

[Kerschbaumer]

Interesting - so the Cohline is not a direct match. Elephant racing has 2 versions of the crossover pipe - OEM layout and one that goes up and over so you can swap heat exchangers more easily. When I spoke w them they said that they manufacture the up over ones and the OEM ones are from a supplier - dont know who yet but said they have no reports of fitment issues either way - so I will likely go with them.

[KTL]

I have a similar fitment issue like Len shows. The shorter Cohline oil line creates a tighter bend in the rubber section and it flattens the hose, choking it down a bit. I don’t like that partial collapse of the hose because it’s obviously putting too tight of a bend radius on the hose

I think that hose layout in general is silly. It’s a wacky way of making the hose change direction and it could be done better with two separate lines?

[BoxsterGT]

I think the short line is actually from Continental, but not certain.

I will contact Cohline and ask what the dims are from them.

Len

[BoxsterGT]

Here is the "Cross Over" Hose I make up for clearing headers and custom turbo exhausts......



It connects at the Oil Cooler as the 911 107 739 10 "Cross Under" Line does.



Unfortunately, my oil Hose assembly tools and fixtures are still packed away for my move to NH, so I cannot make up new ones any time soon. I am now making tunnel lines & fuel hoses, and hope to catch up with oil lines within a few weeks.

Len dot Cummings at verizon dot net

[tpweiss9953]

So what’s the end solution for getting the proper two oil lines? Part numbers, instructions ?

[Flojo]

Originally Posted by BoxsterGT

how do you secure it against vibrating and rubbing to avoid damage?

[Flojo]

Originally Posted by Bphawk1

I just went through the same process ... I did not notice much of a gain with the SSI's

on a regular SC you do notice it very well, the engine breathes way more freely as the SSI are nearest to headers kind of exhaust.
plus, you gain alot of weight loss… no more heavy and hot cross tube under trans, no more heavy pre-muffler… SSI are fully on the plus-side.

[BoxsterGT]

Good day Flojo and all...

This photo was taken during assembly. Loop clamps are used to secure this "Up & Over" Hose along the forward engine tin.

I will look for a photo of this.

Len

[Flojo]

Originally Posted by BoxsterGT

Good day Flojo and all...

This photo was taken during assembly. Loop clamps are used to secure this "Up & Over" Hose along the forward engine tin.

I will look for a photo of this.

Len

I guessed so. But yes, to update, please share foto

[ClickClickBoom]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

We are mechanics and we bend when we have to, and we grease to please.

In the aircraft world, there are Mechanics(few) and parts replacers(most).

[tpweiss9953]

So are there currently the two oil lines that are needed available to be purchase and installed without having to modify them?

[BoxsterGT]

The Line in this photo was new and incorrect.



It is 1" too short as shown here.....


The old and original version fits properly. The new has been made too short, and when installed will not allow a large enough radius to stop from kinking.

I have been Re-Making these new ones with the correct hose AND the correct length. I will shortly have a fixture to re-bend the "Cross Under" Pipe to original spec.

I am happy to help anyone with this issue, and I hope soon to have enough stock to do this on an exchange basis or offer them outright.

Here is a full set of completed and correct lines.....



Please email me for details.

Len.Cummings at verizon.net

[ClickClickBoom]

Does your crossover pipe work on the 3.2 with sensors installed? I had to cut and weld my brand new one for my install....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/877700-3-2-ssi-swap.html

[Harpo]

Mine also looks just like this except the rubber hose that connects this to the oil tank is just the right length to connect on both ends. If I rebend this line then I will also have to shorten the rubber line

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

Que,

This was my problem with the cross-over oil lines purchased from Pelicanparts. The new oil line/s from PP did not come close compared to an old used part shown in the pictures below.





I ordered three (3) cross-over oil lines and all were I’ll fitted. Finally decided to use the hydraulic press to bend the oil line to get a better fit like those of the old line. These were probably made in Asia.

Tony

[911pcars]

With rigid pipe/tubing, I'd aim for installing it without a lot of bending stress. Some heat from an O-A torch can often coax tubes in the correct direction.

Sherwood

[spyerx]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

We are mechanics and we bend when we have to, and we grease to please.

Having had installed a full Elephant Racing fender cooler kit on my 71, I can appreciate this, and great shops that take the time to make it right.
This is one install I'm glad I didn't attempt myself. The engine piping and side piping was pretty rock solid, but the fender stuff needed a LOT of reworking to make it 'right' including 2 new hoses made.

That said, once fully installed, its very functional and keeping my 2.7 right at 180 temps.

[na2ub]

Originally Posted by john walker's workshop

We are mechanics and we bend when we have to, and we grease to please.

My crossover from PP was also very poorly fitted. It looked like i would have to make multiple bends to adjust it, so i ordered the elephant over the trans tube instead. It appeared to fit well, but not around the engine yoke. (I read this fact later). So for the ER tube, to put the engine on a stand, you have to remove the SSIs and the tube, under the car.

Inspired by Mr John Walker, i got to bending on the original. Below is my best approximation of where i bent. Note that u need to install the tube so that it routes forward of the case, not over it.

With the tube installed, i pushed down on the single arrow, bending it over the yoke, to tighten the radius of the half circle. Then, in the vice i bent up on the double arrow, to re-align the end of the tube with the engine tin mount. (I actually put the straight part in the vice, and pulled the curved part for this bend)


Next i dimpled the point of contact with the engine case, by putting the tube in the vice with a 1/2 socket extension, and clamping down to create a small indent.



Finally, i cut off the tab to the engine tin and welded it back on, a 1/4 inch outboard, so the it would align with the engine tin hole.


I fit the SSIs after each bend to check progress. The tube clears the case and barely contacts the SSIs. I did notice, with the SSIs fully seated, the end of the tube needs to be located, 1/2 inch further away (down in the pics) to clear the SSIs, so i need to cut off the tab, re-work it, and re-weld it on to hold the end of the tube in its final position, so before u adjust the tab, check fitment BOTH left and right AND up and down.

I painted with black bbq paint, in case i compromised the finish while working it. It was originally silver and bought here on PP.

Hope this helps future SSI conversions.

Looking forward to contorting my probably 1” short thermostat to crossover line, without getting a kink in the rubber, but emboldened now.

[BoxsterGT]

I now have a fixture to re-bend this "cross under" pipe in case anyone needs the help.

Please email me for details.

len.cummings @ verizon.net

[David Inc.]

I stuck a bit of high-temp rubber from McMaster around the cross-over line where it touches the SSI, as like you I couldn't get just the right amount of bend to avoid it. It's kind of on the limit for the adhesive (250F max) but I figure the cross-over line itself shouldn't be so high above 250F and the rubber can take 500 where it rests against the heat exchanger. Besides--it's kind of jammed in between the line and the exchanger so the pressure should keep it from going anywhere.

[na2ub]

I just cut off (again) and re- welded the tab to get the correct up/down clearance for the SSI shroud. I gave the tube a push downward to give it 1/4 “ clearance from the SSI. Then welded up the tab in the correct position to attach to the engine tin.

After all was said and done, my tube does not contact anything and rests in the relaxed position to bolt to the tin.