Brake Pedal Adjustment Ergonomics

[Cloggie]

Originally Posted by Mocker

The factory recommends adjusting the brake pedal to be even with the clutch pedal, without referencing the position of the throttle pedal at all? That seems wrong, doesn't it?

I think the stock positioning is pretty good for brake and clutch for most people and I think most throttle pedals are adjusted wherever.

Only issus is if you are very long legged like myself, the stock position is closer than desirable and for that reason I modified my seat rails to go about 1.5 cm further back and also adjusted the pedals to be a little more forward - all in the interests of dealing with my ungodly long legs.

I put in an aftermarket throttle pedal which is adjustable left/right and fore and aft, plus I can easily adjust the throw to make sure the throttle hits idle and WOT.

Personally, in my eye, 911's are personalized cars, not like your average Toyota that has to easily adjust for multiple drivers.
Mine is set up to fit just me, as no one else drives it....and I do believe that the 911 caters to that approach with its adjustability.

Mine is still not perfect - need to get miles and more experience with it and then I will dive in one day and adjust to make it just so....just perfect for me.

Wife can't drive a manual versnellingsbak anyway.....

D.

[wswilburn]

And you married her anyway?

[Cloggie]

Originally Posted by wswilburn

And you married her anyway?

Ha!

Shall we say she has other redeeming qualities and thinks the old poster "Everybody Wants One" is an instruction manual

D.

[emac911]

I am somewhat new to the 911. My G50 has taken a bit of practice to blip the throttle downshifting. It isnt as natural for me as other cars. Of all the cars I have owned the BMW and F355 have the best pedal placement. I have owned BMW's for 40 years, so I am somewhat biased to them. BUT, the 911 pedal placement is a small price to pay for a wonderful driving experience! Nothing else like it.

[KTL]

Originally Posted by Cloggie

Disagree with your comment about clutch adjustment.

The factory measurement for the rod that goes into the master cylinder is about right, but there is no physical reason why it cannot be adjusted enough to move the clutch pedal a fair bit.

There is a limit on one end if the rod is set too short where it will not actually actuate the slave cylinder and there is a limit on the other end where it will overextend the master cylinder.

I did some pretty heavy duty checking while my car was apart and you do have enough room in that adjustment to move the pedal perhaps 20 degrees or perhaps 30, which is what I did as I am 190 cm with very long legs.

The adjustment I used is in the one in this picture with the arrow pointing at it.



No issues in my experience, but certainly would reinforce that the recommended position is quite good for most drivers.

D

To each his own. I completely understand your need to make adjustments to the clutch pedal, given your personal/physical demands. That being said, I think it’s still worth mentioning that the clutch travel itself (the actual clutch housing, not the clutch pedal) is quite small and therefore a change the in pedal travel by shortening the clutch master cylinder pushrod length, is going to reduce that already slight amount of clutch travel.

When you did your length adjustment and checking of operation, did you fully depress the pedal and then check the release of the clutch housing? A simple check for ample release of the clutch housing is by checking if you can turn the rear wheel (block one wheel if you have an open differential) with the transmission in gear with the pedal fully depressed.

If you can’t easily turn the rear wheel, that would indicate the clutch isn’t fully released and it’s similar to slipping the clutch when shifting gears. I equate it to riding the brakes and wearing out your pads (clutch disc) and rotors (flywheel and clutch pressure plate/foot) far too soon