Thank you! I Really Needed That. “Both Ways” (The USD and the Red)👍🏾👍🏾

SOB!!😡. Good Catch! Man O Man do I owe you Big Time. I just looked and saw That the Arrow & T were At the Bottom of the Engine. It is not soo much about not knowing how to put this engine together (My Second one, the First one went 386,000 before my wife who the car is for, got cut off Twice while she was going 130) But my First Time Using the Rotating Engine Stand Which makes it Too Easy to miss WHICH WAY IS UP!

A million years ago when I was about 17 and building my First Engine (Chevy 348 with 3-2’s) and not knowing anything, I put in the Pistons backward and forwards having No Idea that it was even Important. Ever since I have been Careful. Thank you again and that will be changed TODAY!!

BTW, you Pic also helped me in another way. I knew to Reference the Oil Control Ring Gap “Up” But like a Vertical Engine I had the Top and second ring gap Left and Right. I will now have their Gaps Up! Thank you Again

People that Post here should NEVER EVER Take offense when someone is trying to Help!

I am soo Glad you posted that. I “HAD” planned to install the Oil Return Tubes (Not Knowing Something was waiting for me). Now I will install BEFORE I put the Heads on for Good!

My thought is that the Man “Upstairs” is also keeping an Eye on this Build. My Question is, did they have these on the 1976 2.7 Engine? Somehow (Knowing Me) I would now have wanted an Open Engine While Installing these. I had no real problems with the 2.7 in putting it Together. (It was A Broken Piston and it took a while to repair all of the Damaged Case Threads where they had used Helicoils inside of Helicoils instead of Time Serts And Big Serts. Thanks again. Totally Taking your Advice.

Reminder.........you are doing fine.
 

Vincent,

Superman has called your attention about the engine cooling tin. I committed this blunder not once but twice. Another thing you could easily forget is the oil return tubes. Make a list of things to do as a reminder during your assembly. I did not need one 20 years ago but now, I could not even find the wrench I was using a few minutes ago. A few times my wife would find the wrench right on top of the work bench!

Do not be discouraged and continue enjoying your projects. All these blunders are part of the learning experience even the pros committed. I was once called stupid and hopeless by someone in this forum and have no chance of learning how CIS works. It only motivated me to achieve my goals.

Tony

THANKS Mr. T. With me, Not so much about Learning, But “Being Alert” just too easy to be Relaxed and “Comfortable”. (Which for the First Time I am! In a Nice Garage, AC, Fan on, Good Lighting, wide screen TV “That keeps me Company, But really do not watch and even padded Stools and Chairs).

Zactly Right, I have been making Notes on my Phone and will Print them out. I also Realize that most of what is left of my Concentration was used on the Exhaust Studs Which are now DONE!! That was Like Taking Final Exams and being Mentally Exhausted. So now to Shift Gears And Put this Dog to Rest! ��������

When you get around to assembling the heads and cam towers, etc, I would recommend assembling the heads, towers, cams and rockers as a unit and then install the complete assembly onto the cylinders, rather than what is written in a certain publication to do it all separately. Much easier.

I never knew that. I have always done it the other way.

HI Vincent Hill

I have been through all the shop manuals (there may be up-dates that are missing from the manuals) I have for the 911 engine and I have no ring positioning in any of them, there is ring positioning in the 356 manual, I use the same positioning for building, as the rings will move round when the engine is running, so the last photo is only for piston position and not ring position, also found this for you

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1562251353.jpg

and the ring positioning, from the 356 manual

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1562251515.jpg

just for your info', I always build up the heads onto the engine (just nipped on the head nuts) and then the cam carrier and oil tubes, torque everything down and then fit the cam to see if it is free to turn and not binding, if you have had any work done on the head face or the cylinders and you do not have the Equipment to check head size or the cylinder length, you will be taking the engineering shop has done a good job, you will then find out when the cam turns with a little oil on the bearings with your fingers, IF NOT you will have to take it apart and find out what is not correct, hight wise on the cylinders or the heads.
not disputing John's years of engine building as he has a better control over what is going back together, than the home builder.

just trying to help out and not wanting to stand on any ones toe's

WOW!! Makes sense, Just like a Single Piece Head, But NEVER EVER Was a Thought in my Mind! Thank You!!

I Thank you again for having the “Super Sharp” Eyes to see the “USD” Pistons. I am pretty careful and it took a while for me to Figure Out “HOW” I did that.

I knew it had something to do when the 360 Degree Engine Stand.

What Happened is I have been doing ALL of the Assembly on the Left side of the Engine. So when I Rotated it to work on the “Right Hand side, the Engine was USD, Hence to have the Arrow and T at the Top, I put them (the Pistons) In USD!

My dad had an Expression that Covers this. Experience is Something you get “Immediately” AFTER You Need it! I just took a PHD course! I am almost 100% Sure that if not for you, “I” would not have caught this Period! I cannot Thank you Enough. Last, No Machinning Of Anything was Done so Mr. Walkers suggestion will be my way to go.

I plan to use 518 Loctite Sealant Between the Heads And the Cam Tower. Assembly Lube on the Cams and Rockers.

Not applicable to some builders......
 

John,

I know a few engine rebuilders like Bruce A. that do the same method like you suggested. However, even if I like to do it, lifting the cam tower, cylinder heads, rockers, and cam shaft would inflict severe pain at my lower back. So I prefer the old fashion way. Installing the crankshaft and the connecting rods to the crankcase halves during assembly is already a challenge for me already. So I have a device to lower it down in place without straining my back.

I don’t see the advantage of pre-assembling them all together and lift the heavy assembled unit over the cylinders in my case. Could you elaborate for my sake why it is a better procedure than the piece by piece method? Thank you.

Tony

If one wishes to remove head studs in an assembled case, how does one do that and not ruin the sealant? Using propane heat to loosen red lock tite would risk destroying the sealants and internal rubber bits, wouldn’t it???

Learning experience is all good. I’m Lucky on my head studs because one of the cylinder nuts stayed on a dilivar stud when it came out. So it was easy for me to see the long side goes into the case. I cut two lines in the stud (perp to the threads) and used it to clean out my case threads. I’ve cleaned them until I can screw them all the way down by hand (or most of the way). Then used Qtips and acetone until they come out white.

Also, I’ve made steps in an excel spread sheet to itemize my assembly steps. I’ll be adding the assembly of heads, cam holder, rockers and cam as a unit. I’m sure I’ve got the engine cooling tin in the right order in my checklist too. Not as concerned about install order of my tubes because I’ve got the collapsible kind.

Need to add a height check of my studs to my list, if it’s not there.

The real tough part will be following directions, my wife says it’s not in a man’s genes :D
Oh and this might be my one and only post from Ecuador!

Try this seems it can be heated
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/712766-1983-head-stud-removal.html

Head studs removal..........
 

bpu699,

Depending how stubborn the cylinder head studs during removal, I have removed successfully several sets of cylinder head studs without using heat. The purpose of the heat application is to break or loosen the chemical bond between the stud and the crankcase threads.

So, if you are worried about the heat generated try it first without heat application. The key to an easy cylinder head studs removal is using the correct tools. A Snap-On collet stud removal tool in combination with a pneumatic impact wrench will do the job conveniently.

Tony

That Install Height will allow you to have 100% use of your Allen Head Socket. Also if where I ended up with was Tight ( As In unused Threads) I turned a little past and Backed up.

I now not only have Notes to Build By But Notes of Caution when using the 360 Degree Engine Stand And Doing the Work On “1” Side!

I used heat but my case halves were apart... took a lot of heat too...

Some of the studs are relatively close to oil seals, etc. aluminum transmits heat really well.

I did not need any heat for my lower studs. In the link above there is much discussion about removal of broken studs with use of heat and without splitting the case. Even mention of oxy-acyt.

I was able to get all but “1” Case Stud Out Using Map Gas / Propane Torch.

BTW, not only are all of the Studs Turned Around And Red Loctited At 135 mm and the “3” Right side Pistons installed Properly AND all of my Sheetmetal Air Deflectors are installed.

Now for the Head and Cam Towers.