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New Problem! My Cylinder Head Studs are 12 MM TOO LONG!
I bought a set of Canyon Cylinder Head Studs for my 1982 Porsche 911 Sc. Part Number “S 93002”. After installing them and putting on the Cylinders, Everything Looked “OK”! Then I installed the Heads and using the “Allen Head” Nuts, they were not Deep enough to use with “1” washer. Finally after “4” Washers (12 MM Thick) it all worked OK.
I Know I could use Nuts, but with a 10 mm Stud, the Nuts I have are 17 mm and the Sockets I have were not thin enough to use. Plus, it is Sooo Much Easier to use an Allen Socket to Put the Nut on the Stud. So what do you Guys do? Does someone make a Long Allen Head Nut I can use? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1562104683.jpg |
Cylinder head studs installed height........
Vincent,
What is the installed height of the cylinder head studs? 135~137 mm? Are you now putting the cylinders heads and CE rings together? If you have not torqued the cylinder heads yet, you could still remove the studs and re-adjust the installed height. Wait, you said it is 12 mm too long? That’s about 1/2” longer! Extra washers or extra long barrel nuts are your options. Unless you want to install the correct length cylinder head studs. Keep us posted. Tony |
Christy Canyon headstud !!
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I bet you installed the short threaded end into the case....
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Use the Red Loctite Thread lock........
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Vincent, Use the Red Loctite thread lock and measure the installed cylinder head stud heights. Shoot for 135 mm installed height measurement and a variance of +/-1 mm is OK. Tony |
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Mr. Walker, please Note that if you are Ever in the Tampa, Clearwater or St Petersburg Area, you Money will not do you Any Good at Any Restaurant I Take you to. Thank you “Again”! First Pic shows Correct End “In” the Case. second Pic shows the Nut Threads Right At the Stud Top. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1562118345.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1562118442.jpg |
Red’s bond is stronger and is what the factory used.
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This is not a "do over" area where you can just fix it later. |
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Since head studs have always been an issue the stronger the bond the better. If you got them out before with the blue on them without heat then that shows you the need for red. Meaning they should be hard as hell to remove.
Tony |
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Thought I had posted this last night Ok!! On Final Assembly, Red Loctite it is. At least I was “Lucky” enough to use Blue and needed to turn the Studs around. I guess I will hear the same on the Exhaust Which Runs Hotter Yet, so I will not bring it up. I do plan to use “518” between the Cam Tower and the Heads vs 564! |
Vincent, don't feel too bad. I installed all of my headstuds upside down the first time...and used red.
That took some serious time to rectify and reinforced I need to go slower and keep the book at hand. As for red/blue, I reckon it's worth the ballache once every 40 years to know the headstuds aren't going anywhere. Any sooner than that and I'd reuse them. (dilivar studs not withstanding) |
HI Vincent
you may need to just check the piston's on the R/H side of the engine are the correct way up, as it looks like they are upside down http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1562156693.jpg just checking before you bolt everything up |
Pistons orientation 180° off .............
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Vincent, Please post a picture showing the top of the piston/s. It looks like you have the orientation wrong. From the picture you posted MBE noticed the problem and completely agree with his observation. The high spot of the piston should be at the left side facing the installed pistons. Spark plug goes in to the right side of the cylinder head dome. Keep us posted. Tony |
Not trying to cause trouble here, but wondering what else is not put together correctly? Maybe worth your while to send it to someone who has experience with these engines, or someone who would let you watch/ learn from them..
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Soo glad for your Posting on that Tidbit. Also on the Crazy side and for totally unusual Reasons, it seems like I have something that has become very Rare. My Exhaust System. It is not that it is made out of 316 Stainless, Or that it is New and one of the Last John Daniels Made, But it is a “Short Primary Tube” And May be worth a few $$$ I bought it so I could use V Band Clamps and have space for High Flow Cats to meet the Emissions Test in Washington DC. With the V Bands and the “4” Secondary Tubes, I could Easily Switch Out the Cats. Living in Florida where most places do not Have Emissions Testing, I do not need this System which delivers more Peak Power But Loses a little Bottom End. So I may Be Selling it And Using the Long Tube with 304 Stainless and Selling this one. 👍🏾👍🏾 |
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