2.7 x-faktory PMO EFI Upgrade.

[timmy2]

Rutager,
Send me the harness, I’ll rework it for you, or swap it out for a new one with no ignition or ARR wiring.
Maybe get the PMO’s running and tuned first before changing ignition systems though?

[rwest]

Hi Dennis,

I bought a complete set from Al at x-faktory, so the ignition is part of it and he supplies a starting tune, so I’m not worried about messing with two systems at once- now if I had just bought individual systems, I would have done one at a time.

I may take you up on the harness offer. I’m not looking forward to removing all the alternator stuff to get to the one end of the harness, but it might make more sense to do it that way.

I did buy an extensive selection of fabric loom and shrink wrap, so I am “armed”!

Ohming out the AAR and it shows the one side is ground and the other goes to 3 pins on the 14 pin connector; 1,4 and 9. Is this correct?

Thanks,
Rutager

[chrismorse]

This is my first big automotive wiring project - I've wired and re-wired houses, but this is a whole new ball game, it gets complicated, wire sizes, pin type, crimpers, different connectors, routing, planning for service disconnects, booting.
Before i even got started, i had Dennis make a CIS-less replacement harness for the brittle antique that was on the engine, - glad i did, thanks Dennis.

If you are doing to take the fuel and ignition in two steps, i'd recommend going with an easily reused/modified expandible mesh type harness sheath, rather than adhesive shrink wrap. Cutting it apart to reconfigure the harness will be MUCH easier.

Ask Al for a MS/EDIS wiring diagram and try to think through how you are going to make the changes and routing if this becomes a two step process.

Dennis has most likely done a few of these :-) His advice would be welcome.

Good Luck,
chris

[rwest]

I have both of the lower throttle bodies in now. Had a couple moments of confusion either because I didn’t see the information in the instructions or they weren’t clear to me. One thing I’m finding is that there is so much information and so many parts that it is very easy to get turned around.

I’ve had to email Al a few times and he is always quick to get me the right answer.

My biggest confusions so far were figuring out which lower throttle bodies went to which side and where the connector for the vacuum brake booster connected. The body with the rod sticking out goes one the 1,2,3 side and it has a tapped hole at #2 that gets the included 90 fitting and one way valve. Here’s a couple pictures to make it clear.

[timmy2]

Pin 9 is correct for power to the AAR. Red/white wire.
You are likely going through ground the see pin 1 (starter solenoid) and pin 4 (oil pressure)
Need to disconnect all wires from all devices to isolate properly.

[rwest]

Picture showing the rod with linkage for throttle to attach to.

[rwest]

Originally Posted by timmy2

Pin 9 is correct for power to the AAR. Red/white wire.
You are likely going through ground the see pin 1 (starter solenoid) and pin 4 (oil pressure)
Need to disconnect all wires from all devices to isolate properly.

Thanks Dennis!

That makes sense as all those are still connected.

[BCLi]

+1
I haven't yet laid out what needs to be done with the wiring as I'm still reading, but I am overwhelmed by it to say the least. I don't yet know what wires go where and the fact that I'm putting on COPs (coil on plugs) makes it even more complicated.
So I'm looking forward to seeing how others do it and try to figure out if I can imitate as such.
I've found there's plenty of room under the seat for a 'higher' mount for the ECU. That's one thing that I DID look at initially.

Originally Posted by chrismorse

Hi Rutager,

Got one of Al's PMO/EDIS kits and am looking forward to first start.

I'm going to use the stud closest to the breather for a central ground point, but will install a rubber and steel washer to seal the air in.
Nice upholstery work, my 74 has the same color. I opted for Classic 9's perforated leather on some core sport seats.

I'm finally getting back to wiring the EFI/EDIS harness. Speaking of harness, is that a new engine harness from Dennis, (Timmy 2)?? He made a "non-CIS" replacement for me.

What are you using for ignition??

I haven't tried to mount the seats or MS yet. Is there enough room under the seat to install rubberr isolation mounts for the MS box/mounting plate?? I too an concerned about submersion - ( some of the frunk gutter has rusted through, which allows rain/wash water to soak the carpet). Since the tank is out, i am going to address this before first start.

I'd be interested in hearing how you and others have gone about doing the harness. I have been driving myself crazy trying to lay out all the wires, connectors and components AND install a few quick disconnects to facilitate engine drop. I finally decided to build the harness on the bench, adding sensors, on a full size mock up of the engine bay - at 72, i don't do well bent over or on hands and knees :-)

back to the wiring,
Cheers,
chris

[rwest]

Goals and milestones...

This week, I told myself I need to get the rear interior all installed this weekend. Lots of struggling trying to get new holes in leather to yield the holes beneath- the parcel shelf luggage strap brackets really fought me along with a few other random screws.

Mission accomplished new seat belts and all the rear pieces are now leather; they were all vinyl originally. Not experiencing that new leather smell yet- garage is only 50F, need a bit of heat to help it give off it’s odor.

[BCLi]

Fantastic!! Looks awesome - congrats! I have mismatched back seats, but not sure what the next step is before getting some of the ITB work done.

Originally Posted by rwest

Goals and milestones...

This week, I told myself I need to get the rear interior all installed this weekend. Lots of struggling trying to get new holes in leather to yield the holes beneath- the parcel shelf luggage strap brackets really fought me along with a few other random screws.

Mission accomplished new seat belts and all the rear pieces are now leather; they were all vinyl originally. Not experiencing that new leather smell yet- garage is only 50F, need a bit of heat to help it give off it’s odor.

[al lkosmal]

When planning your project, especially if your project includes interior updates, like carpeting etc......don't forget the routing of the new ECU wiring harness from the cabin to the engine compartment. If you're routing thru the tunnel, no worries, but if you're going thru the bulkhead, like the the 911SC or Carrera........it will run under the carpet, typically.

[rwest]

Originally Posted by BCLi

Fantastic!! Looks awesome - congrats! I have mismatched back seats, but not sure what the next step is before getting some of the ITB work done.

Thanks Bert,

Mine is case of scope creep as well as the longer your project takes, the more paychecks that have come in, so I started with just ordering new front seat foam and leather, but the shade was slightly off, so I decided to get new door panels and well, asked the company what it would cost for all the rest and in a moment of excitement and enough spare change I ordered all the rear stuff. Glad I did.

[rwest]

Originally Posted by al lkosmal

When planning your project, especially if your project includes interior updates, like carpeting etc......don't forget the routing of the new ECU wiring harness from the cabin to the engine compartment. If you're routing thru the tunnel, no worries, but if you're going thru the bulkhead, like the the 911SC or Carrera........it will run under the carpet, typically.

Good point Al,

I had the Bitz in before, so all the holes were drilled. It was nice to already have the seats out for mounting the ECU though.

Have I mentioned how nice having a removable Targa top is for interior projects?

Thanks for sending the updated wiring diagrams- that’s my next step.

[jakz]

Rutager any updates on the install? I think im closer to finally ordering my X-faktory kit, will contact AL soon but wanted to know how your install is going?

best regards

Jake

[rwest]

Hi Jake,

Nothing new to report at this moment, planning on doing some work this weekend. Next step is wiring.

Rutager

[BCLi]

It's beautiful. And I get the scope creep...the never ending aspects of customization and improvement, limited by the bank account at the moment!

Originally Posted by rwest

Thanks Bert,

Mine is case of scope creep as well as the longer your project takes, the more paychecks that have come in, so I started with just ordering new front seat foam and leather, but the shade was slightly off, so I decided to get new door panels and well, asked the company what it would cost for all the rest and in a moment of excitement and enough spare change I ordered all the rear stuff. Glad I did.

[rwest]

Today I decided to modify the custom engine wiring loom that Dennis here on the forum made me when I went from CIS to Bitz.

Because this new system is using EDIS ignition I no longer needed all of the wiring to the coils and distributor as well as eliminating the AAR. I proceeded by cutting off the shrink wrap on the ends, being very, very careful not to slice my fingers... yea, you guessed it- sliced my middle finger, even after verifying it was out of the way! This is my world, smart enough to plan out a good strategy and dumb enough to mess it up anyway.

I removed the unneeded extra wires and put new shrink wrap over the junctions.

[chrismorse]

Hey Rutager,
I had Dennis build a replacement harness for the patched up old CIS on my 74, wished i had thought through all the EDIS changes and had him add the necessary wiring.
I am going to pull a #8 wire from the starter to the new power relay, so i can feed the new fuse box, (38 amps).
I am looking for the chassis "Tach" wire input, as well as which wire to pull off of the rear fuse block to power up the MS/EDIS relay.

I originally planned to install Engine/Chassis/EDIS/Injection disconnects for an easier engine drop, but the complexity of connector /wire/ pin/ sizes, routing and harness complexity led me to change direction toward simplicity - kind of like plumbing - the simpler and fewer connections, the less likely that the smoke will leak out of the wires.

I will spend a little more time disconnecting injectors, sensors and grounds, but the fabrication and installation will be simpler and hopefully more reliable. that's where im headed.
chris
Hi Rutager,
Are you going crank fire - if so, you need shielded wires for crank sensor, (ground and signal) to the EDIS module, The drain goes to EDIS pin 7,

At 72, i finally realize i don't always get it right, so if i've fuggggged up, please advise

[chrismorse]

I have heard that the accuracy of the oxygen sensor m ay be seriously compromised by a pin hole exhaust leak or a leaking header gasket. GIGO - don't know how serious this is BUT...

So, i ran a bore scope into my 74 heat exchangers and found holes on both sides, one from rust through and another from speed bump "wear", a new opportunity to upgrade (?)
SSI and M&K 2-2, fug it life is short.
chris

[rwest]

Hi Chris,

I had Dennis add a power wire to my harness when he built it, so I’m good there. Tach wire is black/purple of memory serves. Using a multi tester on the rear panel will identify which power is always on and which is switched.

There is also a single tan wire which is near the 14 pin connector that I believe is the fuel pump relay #85- I will test first.

Good luck on your exhaust. Mine was solid, so had it ceramic coated.

Best,
Rutager