911 Sunroof Cancelled

[David]

Here's the sunroof frame/cassette removed in one piece. It was actually much easier than expected:

[NoLift911]

So it is glued in (cassette part) and then welded at the opening?

I am getting ready to do this same thing....

[David]

There are 9 tabs (2 front, 3 per side and 1 rear) as seen in Bill's pic that have to be cut. A cutoff wheel make that a 5 minute job.

I don't think it's welded at the opening but it has folded metal around the opening that locates and holds the cassette. This is where a cutoff wheel works really well. I stood over the opening on each side and carefully cut this metal just below the top of the opening. My second picture above shows the cut around the opening. That pic is just after the cassette was removed so no additional grinding has been done yet. If you're not familiar with using a cutoff wheel, do some test cuts to learn how to control the rpm and cutting action.

When you get it loose, it looks like the cross bar on the cassette will not clear the reading light housings but if you push the cassette forward and to one side, it'll clear the housing so you can lower that side. Then push it toward the lowered side and the other side will clear and drop down. I started to cut the end of the cross bar (you can see on the left side of the bar on my top picture) before I realized, I didn't need to cut it.

[David]

Weight of panel:



I'm using magnets to hold the panel in place between fitting adjustments. I don't think they're going to be strong enough to hold the panel by themselves when bonding the panel in place.

[David]

For those of you that have bonded their panel: is 200 ml of epoxy enough? I'm planning to use 3M 07333.

[Dpmulvan]

Originally Posted by David

For those of you that have bonded their panel: is 200 ml of epoxy enough? I'm planning to use 3M 07333.

It’s more than enough I would also recommend deep throated welding clamps.

[Dpmulvan]

These will fit sides and front windshield area,you’ll have to modify a few to make them longer to get rear area et. If your using filler make sure it’s aluminized,regular filler will crack.

[David]

Originally Posted by Dpmulvan

It’s more than enough I would also recommend deep throated welding clamps.

Great idea! I bet we have bunches in our weld shop at work.

[David]

I borrowed all the welding clamps from the weld shop at work and added a few more. Might be overkill!




Came out good. Now time to paint! I’m seriously considering a full color change paint job. The car was originally light blue metallic not black. Thinking about bright green/Jade IROC color.

[NoLift911]

Reviving and old thread...again...are these entire non-sunroof sections still available? All the links show the Dansk roof sections as NLA...

Anyone else make - ?

Thanks

[David]

https://www.rennline.com/rennline-sunroof-delete-sku-E55

[NoLift911]

Originally Posted by David

https://www.rennline.com/rennline-sunroof-delete-sku-E55

No - I have one of those - talking about the entire roof panel with no sunroof.

[David]

^ oh, gotcha. If I was going to replace the whole roof, I'd prefer to use one off an old 911 rather than a reproduction. The metal in the reproductions doesn't seem as thick or as good. For a floor pan or fender or such I wouldn't worry about it.

[NoLift911]

Originally Posted by David

^ oh, gotcha. If I was going to replace the whole roof, I'd prefer to use one off an old 911 rather than a reproduction. The metal in the reproductions doesn't seem as thick or as good. For a floor pan or fender or such I wouldn't worry about it.

Yes - but hens teeth...
Lighter is better....

[getto822000]

I think if I do another sunroof delete I might use the Rennline panel. I'd spot weld it in place very securely, then I'd use lead or a lead free solder to fill the seam on the outside and body file it. Then it would only need very minimal filler for bodyworking after that. Then I'd seam seal the underside seam.